Glock Factory Lube/Copper, Rust?

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7.62mm.ak47

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Hey guys, I just got my unfired Glock 24C and took it to the range today with some Blazer .40 ammo. I took it home and cleaned it and noticed that there was some rust colored dust of some sort on the rails of the slide and near the striker housing. Most came off easily but the slide rails still have some (it's hard to remove). I'm terrified thinking that my new gun has rust on it now. I read that Glock uses a copper (the "dust" is shiny almost. Doesn't look like normal rust) looking lube when they ship from the factory. Does anyone know if that's it or not? Thanks.
 
^ what they said.

Even with a flashlight it looks odd, but after a few cleanings with will disappear. I use Breakfree Powder blast and after about 3 or 4 cleanings you cannot see it anymore.

The copper stuff is more difficult to remove than it looks.
 
I clean it off before firing a shot out of a new gun & lube it as per owners manual with a quality oil.
 
Glock says not to remove it. Just shoot and clean as you normally would.
 
As others have said it's the copper anti-seize, it must've sat on a shelf for so long that it dried up. Rust isn't shiny.

My G23 had a test-fire date in 2004 but I bought it new in 2009. It sat on a shelf for five years, but the copper anti-seize hadn't dried up. I can't imagine how long it would have to sit for that stuff to dry up.
 
@Voyager4520 - It's not really dried up exactly. It's still somewhat wet looking but stuck to the metal. I'll just fire it a few more times and wait for it to disappear after regular cleanings.
 
Glock anti sieze

I use grease on the rails, have run several 700-800 round training classes with it without issue and pack it into my NY1 trigger/ 3.5 lb connector combo.

Probably have 15-18K rounds through that G32/23 (later put .40 bbl into 32 frame as a cost saver). I later purchased a 23 as a backup and ran 2 classes with it before it broke a rear rail. It was in the series ( E )of pistols prone to this malfunction.
One of my trainers suggested grease when he showed us how to detail strip the pistols. I know quite a few people who also use grease on rails & trigger assmblys.

On another forum, it was the consensus of most that any lubricant was adequate. This from a # of people who train regularly and run their guns in competitions as well.

I don't detail strip my Glocks regularly. I remove the slide, make sure there isn't too much gunk build up and clean as i think it's necessary.

But that's just me and it works for me. I know guys who detail their pistols after every outing. This is unnecessary in my opinion.

Everyone has their own ideas of how and when to clean their guns.
 
I detail strip the slides on my Glock's and 1911's very frequently making sure the firing pin and channel are good and clean. Just because it is so easy to do and causes no wear on the weapon.

But I rarely detail strip the frame. It's harder to do, less important, and it makes sense that those pins could loosen up eventually. Maybe once a year I'll strip the frame. Usually I just hose the frame guts down with CLP then drip a thick oil on the disc/sear rub point.
 
copper colored anti seize

The stuff stays in place, I must say.

My ex BIL bought 2 G20's. He kept one and gave the other to a good friend of his. Years later (at least 5 but maybe as long as 7), he asked if I could show him how to detail strip the gun.

I don't know if he EVER shot it but when I removed the slide, the factory anti seize was still there. I was too busy at the time, we went our separate ways and the grease may very well still be there. :)

So, it does have "staying power".
 
Where can you buy that copper lube at?? I just got a NIB G30 and it didn't have any copper lube at all on it ... it is as dry as the desert sands !!!

I haven't shot it yet, and I might as well ask while I'm here "should I lube it up a little bit before I shoot it for the first time since Glock cheeped out on the factory lube-job?" What the heck is up with that?? Must ah been assembled on a Friday :uhoh:

It also has the new-er 4256-1- TB. I've racked the slide a few time and the TB on the lower left angled edge has a scuff on it. It doesn't seem to be hanging up any but was thinking of lightly ... very very very lightly... hitting the beveled edge with some 1000 grit w&d sand paper to smooth it a bit??? Or would it be suggested I just lube it up and shoot a few rounds and see how she does?

Oh ... and a nickel slides through the front rails with a very slight clearance but with the back rails at first it didn't go through but after a few passes it now does but it's a tight fit. The rear rails also seem a bit lower then the front too.

Would you in the know advise I leave the rails be or run a very fine emery board through them and if so ... take a very very very little bit of plastic off the frame or metal off the rail?

Again ... Keep in mind it's new and hasn't been fired yet.
 
its made by loctite. i got mine from brownells or midway,alot goes along way.
the number on the tube is C5-A. its copper based anti seize.
 
Last edited:
RinkRat said:
Where can you buy that copper lube at?? I just got a NIB G30 and it didn't have any copper lube at all on it ... it is as dry as the desert sands !!!

I haven't shot it yet, and I might as well ask while I'm here "should I lube it up a little bit before I shoot it for the first time since Glock cheeped out on the factory lube-job?" What the heck is up with that?? Must ah been assembled on a Friday :uhoh:

It also has the new-er 4256-1- TB. I've racked the slide a few time and the TB on the lower left angled edge has a scuff on it. It doesn't seem to be hanging up any but was thinking of lightly ... very very very lightly... hitting the beveled edge with some 1000 grit w&d sand paper to smooth it a bit??? Or would it be suggested I just lube it up and shoot a few rounds and see how she does?

Oh ... and a nickel slides through the front rails with a very slight clearance but with the back rails at first it didn't go through but after a few passes it now does but it's a tight fit. The rear rails also seem a bit lower then the front too.

Would you in the know advise I leave the rails be or run a very fine emery board through them and if so ... take a very very very little bit of plastic off the frame or metal off the rail?

Again ... Keep in mind it's new and hasn't been fired yet.
Click to expand...

Lube it up and shoot it. The frame will shave itsself as needed.

Glock frames are rarely straight. The dust cover warps up when removed form the molds too quickly. Newer Glocks are produced faster than older Glocks.

The copper anti sieze is not lube. It is not for breakin. It just keeps the Glock from being stuck together or dry if it sits in the wooden crate of a 3rd world country for months before being used. Don't waste your time with it. It was nice of your local gun shop to take the time and wipe that stuff off. (It's hard to wash out of clothes)
 
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