Good Lead Remover for Smoothbores?

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Waywatcher

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I fired 10 slugs through a very clean barrel yesterday and was completely astonished at how much lead build-up there was in the bore and on the imp. cyl. choke tube. I worked on it for about a (frustrating) hour with Butches Bore Shine, patches, and bronze bore brush.

My question is: what is a good lead remover for shotgun smoothbores?
 
When I want to get the lead out of my 12ga 870, I take a large cleaning patch, and pour a little CLP on it. I then wrap the patch around a 10/12 ga bronze brush, and pull that through the barrel. After repeating that a couple of times, the barrel looks brand new. Takes me about 5 minutes to clean the barrel.

By the way, for $9 or $10 you can get this GREAT shotgun cleaning kit by a company called KNOCKout. It has a bronze brush on a long weighted string that I drop down the barrel and simply pull through. The only time I ever use a traditional rod with the attatchment is when there is one specific area I want to focus on.
 
The only way to attack slug lead:
 

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Get yourself a Hoppe's tornado brush, Kleenbore twister brush, or gunslick spiral brush. Make a pass of two with a patch with solvent or 3in1 oil, which everone you use. Let it sit there for a while meantime clean the rest of the shotgun. Make a couple of passes with either of the brushes I mentioned above and it'll clean it out quickly.
 
Bix showed one method.

Shotguns are an Art & Science, that said, too many folks make something difficult, out of something simple.

Take a cleaning rod and chuck it into a battery operated drill. Put on a brush, and add wisps of 0000 steel wool, or finest grit of Scothbrite pad to this brush. Just run this from chamber to muzzle. Leave screw in chokes installed.

I never really worry about a smoothbore. I DO pay attention to the Chamber, where most problems occur. On a 12 ga, I use a 10 brush and do the chamber with 0000 or Scotchbrite. On a 20 ga, I use a 20 ga...etc.

Using one size larger for chamber, also works for the magazine, and the forearm that fits over mag tube.

After the chamber, I concern myself with extraction.

Still the battery drill takes care of the gritty plastic buildup in chamber, the plastic wad build up at choke (my concerns) and naturally the lead or whatever else.

CRC Brakecleaner, if you want to blast all this out. Still shotgun have worked forever, before all these fancey lubes, cleaners and what have you. Please note the conditions these Blued shotguns have been used in forever too, and still are.

Some of this stuff on the market for guns, is the same thing Marketing does for fishermen. 90% of what is marketed is to catch fishermen's wallets, not fish.

Before Battery drills, we did the same thing using elbow grease ( by hand), again the main thing was the chamber. Paper Hulls with wax coating , does better for chambers than these Plastic hulls. It was a snap to keep chambers clean.

Skeet shooters, with tube sets, will run the battery drill between changing tubes.

Some of these guns are quite expensive I might add.
 
19-3Ben, Thanks for the cleaning tip. I just cleaned a leaded barrel and it work just as you indicated. Byron
 
Thanks for the advice, I bought a tornado brush and used some CLP, worked like a charm, thanks again!
 
Scotchbrite is an abrasive. I would never use it in a gun barrel unless I was trying to remove rust.

For leading I use a patch soaked in Kroil or CLP (Kroil works better). Pass it through the bore in both directions and let it soak while you clean the rest of the gun.

Push a tight fitting dry patch through the bore to get the oil out. Then use either a stiff bronze brush or a brass tornado spiral type tool. I think the brush or other tool works better on lead removal if the barrel is dry. Oil just helps the brush slide over the deposits. The initial soak should get under the lead and help the dry brush push it out.

"Chore Boy" brass mesh on a brush works pretty well with a drill also. "Goo Gone" is effective for dissolving plastic wad fouling.

Added: I have had good results using Eezox or synthetic oil in the bore wiped out with a dry patch before firing to put something under the fouling making it easier to remove. Eezox is particularly good. It is also an excellent corrosion inhibitor.
 
I ride with sm on this. But since I'm a high tech kind of guy I bought a brass "chuckable" cleaning rod from Brownell's when I was in an affluent mood.

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I also bought a bunch of inexpensive brass brushes for it at a gun show, including some large enough to clean the chamber, at prices low enough to make them easily disposable.

I run a patch dripping with solvent through the tube, then spend about a minute running the rotating brushes through it at the end of the rod when it's chucked into my variable speed drill, and finish with a couple of clean patches followed by an oiled patch and a clean patch run through by hand.

One thing, but I don't know if sm will agree about it. I remove the barrel so I can work from the chamber to the muzzle, not the other way round. And I also use patches and some compressed air to get any rubbish out of the receiver.

Eezox is a good tip. I'll try it next time instead of whatever other oil I happen to be using. Eezox is good stuff and might have a future if sold also as a man's cologne.
 
Robert:

They call the fragrance "cut straw". Apparently the actual odor of the product was objectionable to many. Personally, I only care that it works. I have learned to adapt to DM (dead mouse) in the wall every fall so whatever Eezox actually smells like would not offend me.

Like the guy said in Apocalypse Now about the napalm: "it smells like victory".
 
sm said: Shotguns are an Art & Science, that said, too many folks make something difficult, out of something simple.

Take a cleaning rod and chuck it into a battery operated drill. Put on a brush, and add wisps of 0000 steel wool, or finest grit of Scothbrite pad to this brush. Just run this from chamber to muzzle. Leave screw in chokes installed.

(Italics mine)

No offense meant, but your post seemed very oxy-moronic, especially after a $3 tornado brush solved the problem. ;)
 
DBR:

They call the fragrance "cut straw". Apparently the actual odor of the product was objectionable to many.

No joke? Is there really fragrance called "cut straw" added to Eezox? Remember that I'm a fragile old man who could be damaged by excessive pulling on his leg.

The aroma of Eezox doesn't bother me. Neither does the pungent odor of Ballistol, which seems much stronger to me. Someone described that smell as similar to that of wet, old sneakers, but I think that's harsh.
 
Robert:

The info re the fragrance comes directly from the PHD chemical engineer who now owns Eezox. I have spoken with him several times over the past years.
 
Robert:

The info re the fragrance comes directly from the PHD chemical engineer who now owns Eezox. I have spoken with him several times over the past years.

I'm glad to know that factoid. Thank you.
 
my method is a bit more time consuming but works since I live in an apartment without a workbench and a lot of spare room...

Hoppes 9 solvent; older (semiworn) 10 guage bore brush (thicker bristles); shotgun cleaning rod; patches; KleenBore 3-in-1 Gun Conditioner; etc

I dip the bore brush into the hoppes and run the bore back and forth 10 times; I redip the brush and insert (I mimick the twisting motion of a drill by twisting 3-5 times and then insert the length of the brush and repeat this insert and twist for the full length of the barrel); redip the brush and pull back up the length of the bore while twisting again; let stand 10 minutes; switch to a patch carrier and stack the patches to make full contact with the bore and patch several times;

repeat with bore brush & patches if needed; use 3-in-1 to remove excess lead and solvent; patch dry

I sighted in a smoothbore for slugging (10 slugs during 1st outing and 15 slugs for the 2nd outing); this method worked for me...I don't have a basement or workshop; I don't own a drill; I don't have alot of spare room; I used what was available to me :cool:
 
kmrcstintn, that sounds very similar to what I was doing, and I agree it was very time consuming and somewhat frustrating. I also live in an apartment, for what it's worth. After using a "tornado" style brush, I can't recommend them highly enough. They make cleaning really, really easy.
 
I use the Ralph Walker trick for cleaning smoothbores. Take a 3/8" x 36" hardwood dowel and use a knife to roll up a number a splinters five or so inches from one end and chuck the other end in the drill. Unroll a bobbin of 0000# steel wool and rewind on the raised splinter end of the dowel. Put a little Break Free or Hoppes on the wool and start from the chamber end. Make sure you have the dowel partially in the chamber before running the drill. Be careful around extractor cuts and choke tube notches. I change the steel wool once per season, but probably not necessary. I wonder about the effect of the carbon steel wool depositing on chrome lined barrels and causing rust, but haven't seen this myself. ymmv
 
Normal steel wool should be much softer than the chrome barrel lining. Might be a good idea to go through the bore with a patch saturated with JB Bore cleaner wrapped on a brush and then a clean patch to get any fragments of the steel wool out. I would finish off with a patch lightly coated with Eezox or Mobil 1 to make the next cleaning easier.

Bronze wool also works very well and eliminates the post cleaning corrosion issue.
 
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