GPR Disassembly

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aprayinbear

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To All you Lyman GPR owners out there,

Just received my new Lyman GPR kit yesterday. Wow, I'm really pleased, but I have one question. Other then removing the lock bolt, is there anything I need to do to remove the lock? I have a feeling the lockplate is inlet verrrry tightly making it hard to remove, but I didn't want to force it. Same thing for the trigger assembly. Am I missing something, or can I be more aggressive when prying the lock from the stock?

Happy Shootin' ;)
 
Usin' a wooden, leather, or simular mallet or a piece of wood hit the wedge out from the opposite side. Then pull it out...ooops that was barrel removal...
 
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Not sure what wedge you're hitting to remove the lock, SG. The GPR uses wedge pins to hold the barrel in the forestock, but none in the lock.

aprayinbear - do NOT 'pry' the lock out; you;ll damage the stock. Loosen the bolt holding the wedge in but do not remove it. Tap the bolt head carefully until the lock loosens in the stock. Back the bolt out completely but leave it in the hole and use it to push the lock out. The trigger assembly can be loosened by pulling on the triggers; you can use a small punch or screwdriver in the screw holes to pry it up a bit.
 
I'm a little confused by your post - it's a kit; but its assembled?

I have a GPR, non-kit gun (couldn't find an LH kit!) and the lock fits very tightly to the stock. I just put the hammer at half-cock and wiggle the top of it left-right a bit, and the lock pops out of the stock. (after retaining screws have been removed, of course)

Just make sure in a fit of overzealousness you don't gouge your stock; cause every time you look at it you'll kick yourself.
 
Thanks Folks,

Thanks for your suggestions. Yes its a kit but the GPR comes with the lock and trigger inlet and installed. I was able to get the lock out, but didn't try with the trigger as yet. These were installed really tightly. A good fit is one thing, but this is another... I could see how someone could easily gouge their stock if the were a bit overzealous about removing them. I'll gently open up the inlet a bit until the lock removes more easily. Don't know if they are all like this or just mine.

In general there is very little work to do with this kit. I'll need to do the final fitting of the toe and butt plate, do a bit of shaping on the stock, polish the trigger guard and butt plate and finish metal and stock. The barrel is really nicely polished already so I don't see any need for draw filing or sanding.

:p
 
The latest GPR kits have had some difficulty with the tang screw not quite lining up with the embedded nut plate. This has been solved two ways: shaving the back of the barrel channel to move the tang back and relieving the back side of the tang screw hole. The latter is not completely satisfactory in some cases as the tang screw head is not quite square with the top of the tang when complete, and the back of the tang inlet channel has just a bit of space left open. Not noticeable in other cases. Down side of the former solution is that the touch hole is just slightly aft of center in the pan; that has not caused any ignition problems, however.

You may also find the top of the tang itself is proud of the stock forward of the tang screw hole and will need some relieving with a good draw file.

Throw away the tiny escutcheon screws; they will break on installation. Get some #2 slotted wood screws from Brownell's and cold blue the heads.

I presume the stock shaping will be the butt stock perch belly - a simple but worthwhile mod that I wish I'd done.

Take the time to install some wedge pin keepers; the GPR wedges are not the same size so they keep you from mixing them up.

Don't even think about accurizing or adjusting the sights until you've fired at least 100 rounds. It'll be all over the place until the lands get a tiny bit of wear. You can lap the bore but it's just much more fun to do it by shooting the gun.
 
Perch Belly?

Thanks for the suggestions MYKEAL. I keep hearing about the perch belly and I'm not sure what people are talking about. Please fill me in. Do you know of a picture in one of the threads here?

Thanks Once Again.
 
'Perch belly' is a slight rounding of the bottom of the buttstock. Stand the stock on the butt and sight along the bottom of the stock from the wrist (trigger area) to the butt. What looks like a straight line from the side will be seen to actually be curved outward slightly, like the slight curve of the belly of the small panfish called a perch. You can also ascertain it by laying a metal straight edge along the bottom of the stock.
 
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