Lyman GPR Kit
- Thread starter Panzerschwein
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Panzerschwein
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Thanks! Hopefully they'll get them in soon.
I still need tips and tricks perhaps. I've never done this, I'm a little nervous!!
I still need tips and tricks perhaps. I've never done this, I'm a little nervous!!
It's a piece of cake to assemble, just take your time. Most of the work is in the finishing of the wood and metal. Each kit could have it's own unique quirk in the wood to metal fit so be prepared to do a little wood removal/inletting. Start a photo thread of your progress when you get it.
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Panzerschwein
member
I will! Just need to make sure the wood will be the correct color...
david58
Member
I like the GPR, never have owned one, but consider them the best reproduction of a Hawken you can buy without buying one.
Original barrels would be fire-blued, with the browning coming from age.
My 2 cents worth:
- Use a cold brown on the barrel. Coloring is better, and more permanent, than using the plum brown.
- Sand the stock VERY smooth before staining.
- My favorite stock coloring is to use a Brownell's stain, first red mahogany and then a coat of walnut. Alcohol based stain is best, since it will not raise the grain. Then use a fine steel wool to bring the color up - the red will start to assert itself as you remove the walnut coloring.
- Sticking with Brownell's, get their rub-on finish. You rub it on with your finger, dipping your finger in and then rubbing in the stain. It's a good, hard, durable finish. But here's the big trick - use 600 grit wet dry paper, and wet sand the finish in between layers, using the rub-on finish as the "wet" - keep the paper wet with the finish as you sand the stock. Use real light coats when you apply the finish, and take your time. But you will find that the finish is exquisite, and you don't have to steel wool it to take the shine off.
- The poured pewter nosecap is a wonderful finishing touch, but a browned cap works, too.
Original barrels would be fire-blued, with the browning coming from age.
My 2 cents worth:
- Use a cold brown on the barrel. Coloring is better, and more permanent, than using the plum brown.
- Sand the stock VERY smooth before staining.
- My favorite stock coloring is to use a Brownell's stain, first red mahogany and then a coat of walnut. Alcohol based stain is best, since it will not raise the grain. Then use a fine steel wool to bring the color up - the red will start to assert itself as you remove the walnut coloring.
- Sticking with Brownell's, get their rub-on finish. You rub it on with your finger, dipping your finger in and then rubbing in the stain. It's a good, hard, durable finish. But here's the big trick - use 600 grit wet dry paper, and wet sand the finish in between layers, using the rub-on finish as the "wet" - keep the paper wet with the finish as you sand the stock. Use real light coats when you apply the finish, and take your time. But you will find that the finish is exquisite, and you don't have to steel wool it to take the shine off.
- The poured pewter nosecap is a wonderful finishing touch, but a browned cap works, too.
midland man
Member
so guys will all this info apply to the traditions kits, as the one I am lookin at is the traditions flintlock Kentucky rifle kit in 50c https://www.muzzle-loaders.com/traditions-kentucky-rifle-kit-flintlock.html so what ya'll think plus I've never owned a flintlock but this one looks cool! I did do a pistol but never a rifle...
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OP
Panzerschwein
member
Thanks so much all! You are helping me greatly.
I'm thinking that wood is wood, steel is steel and your care will take care of whatever direction you take...
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OP
Panzerschwein
member
UPDATE!
I just bought this kit:
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/10260
It says "out of stock" now, because I grabbed the last one.!
My heart is POUNDING right now... God I can hardly breath!! I am going to FINALLY have my own Hawken rifle!!
I'll need all the tips and help I can get guys. I will post my progress as well!
I just bought this kit:
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/10260
It says "out of stock" now, because I grabbed the last one.
!My heart is POUNDING right now... God I can hardly breath!! I am going to FINALLY have my own Hawken rifle!!
I'll need all the tips and help I can get guys. I will post my progress as well!
midland man
Member
congrats cooldill I hope you enjoy building that rifle as when I built my pistol it made me wanna build more of these kits, and now wanna build a rifle!! keep us posted and only use goex
1KPerDay
Member
Cool! I've built 2 and the went together really well. The fitting of the stock and barrel was much better than CVA kits I've built. I used Plum Brown and I love the finish it makes. It's a bit finicky but the results are beautiful.
dagger dog
Member
I see beau-coup fun in your near future !
If you want I can post some pic's of that dye I was talking about, I've done a couple 'hawk handles, Laurel Mountain also makes a maple wood stain may want to check into that.
I have the Cabela's version of Invest Arms 50 caliber Hawken, which is the twin of your Lyman, either one is a great start for a muzzleloader.
The hardest part of your build is the waiting for the package to arrive !
If you want I can post some pic's of that dye I was talking about, I've done a couple 'hawk handles, Laurel Mountain also makes a maple wood stain may want to check into that.
I have the Cabela's version of Invest Arms 50 caliber Hawken, which is the twin of your Lyman, either one is a great start for a muzzleloader.
The hardest part of your build is the waiting for the package to arrive !
OP
OP
Panzerschwein
member
Dagger, I would love to see the stain color if possible. I would really appreciate it!
So do you guys think the wood fitting and assembly will be hard? Aside from some sandpaper, is there any other tools I should buy?
OP
OP
Panzerschwein
member
Glad to have you along for the ride, Whip!
The Lyman kit is a great value, and can produce a wonderful reproduction of the Hawken Bros. rifles.
regarding loading rods, I avoid fiberglass and plastic like the plague, as they flex and can abrade your rifling.
I like to go in person to a store that carries straight-grain hickory with no run-out,
select several, take them home and soak them at least overnight in a pipe filled with kerosene and capped on both ends. After soaking, I pull them out and let them dry prior to finishing them. The kero soak gets into the grain and seems to lubricate the fibers , allowing the rod to bend more without breaking.
hth
shunka
regarding loading rods, I avoid fiberglass and plastic like the plague, as they flex and can abrade your rifling.
I like to go in person to a store that carries straight-grain hickory with no run-out,
select several, take them home and soak them at least overnight in a pipe filled with kerosene and capped on both ends. After soaking, I pull them out and let them dry prior to finishing them. The kero soak gets into the grain and seems to lubricate the fibers , allowing the rod to bend more without breaking.
hth
shunka
OP
OP
Panzerschwein
member
Interesting! I will probably just buy one, but will keep the kerosene soaking in mind.
Anybody else have any recommendations for getting the deep reddish brown wood color like the rifle in my OP?
Anybody else have any recommendations for getting the deep reddish brown wood color like the rifle in my OP?
midland man
Member
cooldill I hope your gun project goes well, I will be following and keep the real bp burning...
and keep the real bp burning...
dagger dog
Member
Leather dyed hickory, you can go from a light 1 coat ( the handle without a head) or darker 2 coats.
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OP
OP
Panzerschwein
member
Thanks so much Dagger! I like the looks of that a whole lot.
dagger dog
Member
Don't mention it, glad to be of some help !
Another possibility, the use of a fire heated iron brought into close proximity to the wood, you may try this in the barrel channel so it won't be obvious if you don't like the results, a red hot iron can change the colors of the wood then use your stain of choice for more effect.
The ram rod can be used to try this type of coloring, it's easy to replace. The old timers used a concoction of iron filings and rainwater and nitric acid left to rust and used that on the wood then heated the wood to get different effects. Seems the maple used for stocks was dense and yet soft in places, the tiger striping of the wood shows when the hot iron was applied to the stained wood.
I have a very plain maple stock on a build I'm doing and I'm going to try the old method, but have to do more research on the staining method.
Another possibility, the use of a fire heated iron brought into close proximity to the wood, you may try this in the barrel channel so it won't be obvious if you don't like the results, a red hot iron can change the colors of the wood then use your stain of choice for more effect.
The ram rod can be used to try this type of coloring, it's easy to replace. The old timers used a concoction of iron filings and rainwater and nitric acid left to rust and used that on the wood then heated the wood to get different effects. Seems the maple used for stocks was dense and yet soft in places, the tiger striping of the wood shows when the hot iron was applied to the stained wood.
I have a very plain maple stock on a build I'm doing and I'm going to try the old method, but have to do more research on the staining method.
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desidog
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- Nov 21, 2008
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Cooldill, when you use the dye, be sure to wear latex gloves... i had some green spots on my hand and under my finger nails for a month after doing this Mosin...
Also, the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution is great. After plugging the barrel, I take an old t-shirt or tear up an old sheet and wrap the whole barrel after dampening the rag, and then leave it in a trash bag for a day or two before taking it out and carding it. To or three repetitions should do it, maybe a little more judicious dabbing of the rag towards the end to even the brown out.
Also, the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution is great. After plugging the barrel, I take an old t-shirt or tear up an old sheet and wrap the whole barrel after dampening the rag, and then leave it in a trash bag for a day or two before taking it out and carding it. To or three repetitions should do it, maybe a little more judicious dabbing of the rag towards the end to even the brown out.
OP
OP
Panzerschwein
member
Okay gang, here is another question:
I want to "sharpen up" the wood bevels around the lock plate. All the GPRs I have seen have rounded bevels.... I greatly prefer then to be sharper around that area.... Anybody know what I should do??
I want to "sharpen up" the wood bevels around the lock plate. All the GPRs I have seen have rounded bevels.... I greatly prefer then to be sharper around that area.... Anybody know what I should do??
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