Lyman GPR Kit

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Here's what I would do. Go ahead and finish the stock and the nose cap. When you're ready to permanently attach the nose cap just use the original pin and use some epoxy or bedding resin under the cap to fill up any voids so that it dries nice and solid. Maybe use a shim as well. No wiggle, no one will ever know.
 
Given the offset of the holes I would ask for a new nosepiece. That is just sloppy workmanship.
While I agree, I'd rather just fix it up myself. Not worth the trouble. I just need it to be snugged down and not wiggle about.

I am going to be sanding and smoothing down all metal parts today gentleman. Then, I'll work on inletting and fitting the parts to the stock. Once that is done, I'll shape and smooth the stock, then work on finishing the wood and browning the metal. If I'm doing that wrong, or in the wrong order, please let me know. Also any tips on how to fix the wobbly nose cap would be very helpful!

I can't thank you all enough for your help. You are such knowledgeable people, and I am learning much. :)
 
Good plan. Next thing you know you'll be searching Track of the Wolf's site for a kit.
 
I'd redrill the pin hole and put a brass filler into the other hole as an accent - but that's just me. I'd also make a matching hole on the other side to make it balanced.
 
I would suggest trying different stains and finish on scrap walnut first. The stock will darken up a lot when you put your finish on it. Walnut is already dark, and stain may just muddy the grain. I restocked a shotgun with a walnut stock and used Tru-oil. I test Birchwood Casey grain filler on a scrap, the used Tru-oil and it was very flat looking, no depth of grain. Then I just used several light coats of Tru-oil, steel wooling it back to bare wood between coats until the grain was filled. Then I put several coats of Tru-oil on and lightly scuffed with steel wool between coats. Finally I cut back the shine with Birchwood Casey sheen reducer. I didn't use any stain, the stock came out great. Practice with different products and techniques on scrap before applying to the stock.
 
I would suggest trying different stains and finish on scrap walnut first. The stock will darken up a lot when you put your finish on it. Walnut is already dark, and stain may just muddy the grain. I restocked a shotgun with a walnut stock and used Tru-oil. I test Birchwood Casey grain filler on a scrap, the used Tru-oil and it was very flat looking, no depth of grain. Then I just used several light coats of Tru-oil, steel wooling it back to bare wood between coats until the grain was filled. Then I put several coats of Tru-oil on and lightly scuffed with steel wool between coats. Finally I cut back the shine with Birchwood Casey sheen reducer. I didn't use any stain, the stock came out great. Practice with different products and techniques on scrap before applying to the stock.
Thanks! I will.

So as for the stain color, this is about what I'm going for:

W_26_20111129.jpg

This is an Amish wood stain called "Michael's Cherry" and the above picture is said stain on a piece of walnut. I love the way it looks, but the Amish don't sell the actual stain by itself. You've got to order a piece of furniture from them and they finish it with this stain or others as you choose.

Any idea how to get this deep, reddish/orange brown color?
 
Well I see you have your rifle listed for sale here at THR and at TFL. You really should try to build it. Its not that hard. Even if its not perfect when you finish it you will have bragging rights for building your own rifle.

But if you do sell it don't turn your nose up at a factory built GPR. The first GPR I bought was a factory built gun I bought from Natchez Shooters Supply for a whopping $240. The kit was $210. I said there ain't no way I can build this for a $30 savings. If I don't like the factory finish I will take it apart and redo it. You know what? The factory did an excellent job and I didn't see where I could make any real improvements.

If you are having trouble visualizing how the rifle goes together see if someone in your area has a rifle they will let you look at and best of all let you borrow for a week or so. Or maybe a local builder will give you a hand with it.

But don't give up. You have lots of folks here willing to help you out.
 
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Well I see you have your rifle listed for sale here at THR and at TFL. You really should try to build it. Its not that hard. Even if its not perfect when you finish it you will have bragging rights for building your own rifle.

But if you do sell it don't turn your nose up at a factory built GPR. The first GPR I bought was a factory built gun I bought from Natchez Shooters Supply for a whopping $240. The kit was $210. I said there ain't no way I can build this for a $30 savings. If I don't like the factory finish I will take it apart and redo it. You know what? The factory did an excellent job and I didn't see where I could make any real improvements.

If you are having trouble visualizing how the rifle goes together see if someone in your area his a rifle they will let you look at and best of all let you borrow for a week or so. Or maybe a local builder will give you a hand with it.

But don't give up. You have lots of folks here willing to help you out.
Thabks for the kind words, Ratahooter. However I have had some personal events happen recently and at this time I do not have the time to do it. I believe I am going to purchase a factory made GPR sometime later in the future. Its just that with work, school, and family, I would rather pass this project on to someone who will do the kit justice and enjoy the process. Thank you all so much.
 
OK. I hope things work out for you and you can get back in the game. The factory rifles are really nice. You see them come up on the auction sites but they always sell pretty quick.
 
Bummer.

Why not slap it together and have fun with it? That won't take ages, maybe an afternoon, and down the road when you have more time you can always refine and refinish it.
 
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