Lyman GPR Kit

[Panzerschwein]

I'm looking for any and all input on the kit gun version of the Lyman GPR. Especially from those who've built them.

I want a .54 caliber version, round ball twist. I would like to rust brown all the metal parts including the lock, hammer, barrel, everything except maybe the stock pins. Also, I would like to stain the stock in a nice deep reddish brown color, and finish with tung oil to give the stock water resistance as this will be an all purpose, all weather rifle for use both at the range and in the field. I would like the build to turn out looking like this:



I have never built a muzzle loader before, how hard will this be? My woodworking and tool skills are decent, but again, I've never done this.

I keep hearing about how the Lyman GPR is such a good gun for the money, I'd love to get one. The reason why I don't just buy the factory built gun is because I don't like the plain wood finish and bluing that come on them. I'd like it to look more authentic and attractive. Plus it just seems fun and will save me money as well.

Looking forward to your replies. Thanks!

 

[midland man]

cooldill I did a traditions kentucky pistol kit last year and really enjoyed it and now want to do a rifle as well, I am looking at the traditions 50c flintlock Kentucky rifle kit with 1-66 twist for roundballs I wished it was offered in 54c tho!

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

I have not built a Lyman kit yet but I have built five Pedersoli kits. If you have average woodworking skills and equipment you can create a nice finished rifle if the Lyman kit is similar to the Pedersoli. I use an assortment of files, a block plane, and a lot of sand paper. I use the block plane to rough in the stock, then file close to final fit, then sand starting with 100 grit and up to 400 grit, then finish with steel wool. The brass pieces require filing, sanding, and either steel wool or scotchbrite pads for a good finish. Depending on the finish for the barrel you can draw file and finish with a wood block wrapped with fine grit emery paper or crocus cloth as I prefer to leave them in the raw rather than bluing or browning. A good coat of gun oil on the outside keeps them bright when you are finished. I finish the stock with 7 or 8 coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish, rubbing with 0000 steel wool between each coat.

It sounds lengthy but the finished product is something you can be proud of. I would estimate that the average rifle takes about 40 or 50 hours of work to be satisfactory to me.

 

[Panzerschwein]

I have not built a Lyman kit yet but I have built five Pedersoli kits. If you have average woodworking skills and equipment you can create a nice finished rifle if the Lyman kit is similar to the Pedersoli. I use an assortment of files, a block plane, and a lot of sand paper. I use the block plane to rough in the stock, then file close to final fit, then sand starting with 100 grit and up to 400 grit, then finish with steel wool. The brass pieces require filing, sanding, and either steel wool or scotchbrite pads for a good finish. Depending on the finish for the barrel you can draw file and finish with a wood block wrapped with fine grit emery paper or crocus cloth as I prefer to leave them in the raw rather than bluing or browning. A good coat of gun oil on the outside keeps them bright when you are finished. I finish the stock with 7 or 8 coats of Formby's Tung Oil Finish, rubbing with 0000 steel wool between each coat.

It sounds lengthy but the finished product is something you can be proud of. I would estimate that the average rifle takes about 40 or 50 hours of work to be satisfactory to me.

Very cool. I would just buy the finished rifle, but they just don't look very good. I'm convinced that with a rust brown finish and nice wood finishing, the gun would look far better and I'm willing to put the effort into it.

 

[Jimster]

I've built three and they're a breeze to assemble and finish. I used Plum Brown to finish the metal. You'll need to replace the set trigger adjustment screw with a longer one in order to get a nice light trigger. Otherwise the trigger pull is hideous. The factory ram rod is fair at best. You'll need to remove the case hardening colors off of the lockplate before browning it. Easy done with fine sand paper. I believe I've read somewhere that originals had blued barrels but liked the brown look better. These are great shooters and please use real black powder instead of Pyrodex.

 

[Panzerschwein]

I've built three and they're a breeze to assemble and finish. I used Plum Brown to finish the metal. You'll need to replace the set trigger adjustment screw with a longer one in order to get a nice light trigger. Otherwise the trigger pull is hideous. The factory ram rod is fair at best. You'll need to remove the case hardening colors off of the lockplate before browning it. Easy done with fine sand paper. I believe I've read somewhere that originals had blued barrels but liked the brown look better. These are great shooters and please use real black powder instead of Pyrodex.

Ah! I've heard original Hawkens had browned barrels.

About the ramrod, why is it considered only fair? I'd like to have a nice rod to go under the barrel. Oh, and I use Goex real black powder exclusively in my guns. No Pyrodorx for me.

I just looked at Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. It looks MUCH easier and faster to apply and I love the looks of it. But, will it make a nice even finish? Also, is it going to be as durable as say Laurel Mountain brown?

 

[Jimster]

The factory rods are bad to have the grain running off to one side and is easier to break under pressure and gouging hands with the splintered broken end. I suggest getting a hickory rod to replace it. I would post pics but they all ended up as gifts. I only have a flintlock jaeger now.

 

[Panzerschwein]

The factory rods are bad to have the grain running off to one side and is easier to break under pressure and gouging hands with the splintered broken end. I suggest getting a hickory rod to replace it. I would post pics but they all ended up as gifts. I only have a flintlock jaeger now.

Sure! I would certainly prefer a stouter rod. While I plan to use a dedicated range rod, I would use the rifle's ramrod to load in the field while hunting and camping/exploring.

 

[Jimster]

Everybody has their own ways but a range rod is just one more thing to carry. A good hickory ramrod with a good jag is hard to beat and I tend to lean toward authenticity when I'm burning black powder. Sling your powder horn and shootin' pouch over your shoulder and you're 170 years back in time. But that's just me.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Everybody has their own ways but a range rod is just one more thing to carry. A good hickory ramrod with a good jag is hard to beat and I tend to lean toward authenticity when I'm burning black powder. Sling your powder horn and shootin' pouch over your shoulder and you're 170 years back in time. But that's just me.

I see! I suppose if I can find a stout hickory rod, I'd rather just use that. I like to shoot with authenticity as well, and it will be good training for me since like you said I will have a possibles bag and a powder horn and want to learn to load and fire the gun in the field.

So about the plum brown, did you use the Birchwood Casey brand? How well does it hold up to handling and use?

 

[Jimster]

Yes, Birchwood Casey. It's good stuff. The finish seemed to hold up well but I didn't have them long. Check out Dixie Gunworks for hickory rods. There's a ton of website vendors for all the accouterments and such. Very addicting.

 

[LonesomePigeon]

I read somewhere a wooden rod can be soaked in something(maybe olive oil or kerosene not really sure) to make it more flexible, so it doesn't break so easy.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

One of your reasons for a kit you mentioned was to save money. I don't think you will find it to be the case. Building a kit gun has often been referred to as a labor of love. What about buying the finished rifle, then stripping the stock and barrel and refinishing the way you like? This way you need to mess with function of the rifle and your labor is much less. It could even be a used rifle. in that way you actually should be able to save some money as well as feel the pride in a job well done.

If you enjoy it, and are bit by the bug, the next step could be to do a full build from some where like Track of the Wolf and really turn out a beauty.

 

[midland man]

cooldill a man after my own heart, I love goex!!

 

[dagger dog]

That dark red-brown color for your stock can be achieved using Fiebings dark brown leather dye, it's available at Tandy leather.

 

[Noz]

The single piece of the rifle that will get the most abuse is the ramrod. I'd get a fiberglass ramrod and bow my head in shame if someone notices, but smile when I have to use it.

 

[AJumbo]

I quit using fiberglass rods after I destroyed a barrel with one. I still advocate using a break-resistant rod of some sort. I use brass range rods and have stiff polymer rods for hunting. I helped give first aid to a shooter who broke a wood ramrod and impaled his hand on it; we were shooting a stake match and he was hurrying to reload (of course, because that's what stake shoots are all about), and grabbed the rod too far up. Ouchy, and bloody. I keep a good wood ramrod in each of my rifles and don't mind using them, but there are so may good reasons to have a strong, flexible, non-imbeddable rod handy.

 

[Panzerschwein]

That dark red-brown color for your stock can be achieved using Fiebings dark brown leather dye, it's available at Tandy leather.

Interesting! I will have to look into that product.

 

[Crawdad1]

I used Laurel Mountain Forge to brown my barrel on my Hatfield rifle. Real easy to use as you don't need to be so picky about degreasing the barrel as you do with Birchwood Casey products. And you get a real deep rust brown.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...browning/barrel-brown-degreaser-prod7780.aspx


"Oil the bore of the barrel well and seal with tightly fitting wooden plugs at the muzzle and breech. Wipe the surface of the barrel with a clean dry cloth to remove any remaining sanding dust. The barrel is now ready to brown. Degreasing is not necessary, as Barrel Brown is formulated to remove all traces of grease and oil."

 

[Jimster]

That sounds easier to use than Birchwood Casey.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Indeed. After some research, it seems the Laurel Mountain product will be easier and more applicable to my needs, even if slower. I've got plenty of time.

Still looking for any and all input guys. I want this build to turn out right!

 

[Crawdad1]

That Laurel Mountain gives you a real deep antique rust brown and its very forgiving if you are doing this for the first time. Good luck on your build.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Thank you so!!

Still looking for some tips on the wood. I'm going for a nice, deep brownish red like in the first picture, and also a smooth satin oil finish from water resistant tung oil.

 

[AJumbo]

I've built about 6 GPRs, all for friends or customers (I can't quite fathom why someone would buy the kit, then have me assemble it for them, but it gave me powder money.) Only one disliked the satin tung oil finish I favored, and that was because the European walnut in the Lyman kits just doesn't look as nice as black walnut.

If you decide on staining with Fiebing's, make sure you know what color you want first. Fiebing's makes about 100 colors, and once you apply a penetrating stain, you can't remove it. All you can do is go darker and try to cover the first effort. I guess you could stain a small spot in the barrel channel as a color test.

I'll second the Laurel Mountain browning, but I've used the Birchwood Casey a lot and it comes out great if you do all the prep work correctly. It's a darker brown, not as red as the Laurel Mtn. Insofar as what the Hawken brothers used (brown vs. blue), they were a semi-custom shop and I wouldn't be shocked if they could do either finish. I'm too lazy to look up the definitive answer, and I prefer browned muzzleloaders anyway.

 

[Panzerschwein]

i prefer the browned look as well. I am having a time locating one of these kits to buy. Midsouth Shooting Supplies has by far the best price on this kit I've been able to find, but they're out of stock. I decided to email them and we'll see what they say.