Gun Cleaning

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jimsouth

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I guess I'm a bit primitive; but I have always used Liquid Wrench. The original Liquid Wrench. Bore shines like the sun - drives out moisture - just enough lube. Just me. Liquid Wrench & Kano Kroil. I kind of think they are the same penetrant. I remember my grandfather using kerosene to clean his old Ithaca pigeon gun.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6538197_clean-gun-kroil.html

Kano Kroil is a penetrating oil that has gained a large following for its quality ... Cleaning a gun is an important part of keeping the gun from becoming
 
Yep - Kroil is my cleaner of choice. That said, many people are obsessive about cleaning their guns, and overdo it, IMO.
 
Marine Corps Lube/Cleaner sticks like snail snot and does it all; this is the formula.

We use this on .45-70 lever guns, all match pistols and long range rifles - it really smooths things up and when you try to wash it off your hands you know why it works - - like snail snot that does not want to come off.


US Marine Corps Firearms Cleaner& Lube


1 qt. Mobil 1 synthetic : 0,5,10W- 30W, do not use a heavier than W30 - ONLY (Mobil one: NO other synthetic.) **no ester based synthetic**

1 pt. Marvel Mystery Oil

1pt. STP

1 pt. ATF ( they prefer FMC synthetic or Mobil synthetic)

Mix well and store - you get enough to last a large group a very long time.
 
I have used Break Free for a long time and now am trying EEZOX. I think the EEZOX is better but I have to buy it on the internet and Break Free is at Walmart.
 
LW or Kroil are solvents and will certainly clean well. They do not offer much lubrication. So it's good to follow up with some type of oil or lube.

Heck I have cleaned guns with regular kerosene.



I can't stand the smell of Kroil, My Dad used LW way back when, the changed the odor of that now and it's not to bad.
 
LW is intended to soak in and soften rust and to some extent wick between surfaces that are galled and bound up. While it does that pretty well it's not intended to serve as a long term lubricant. Neither is it intended to stand up long term and maintain a protective film on metal as a guard against corrosion. So using it for cleaning and follow up protection and lubrication is a gamble. If it's worked out OK for you so far and it hasn't produced galling or other metal to metal wear issues then fine. It would not be my first choice though.

To check this out you can test it yourself. Clean and dry the bolt of a rifle or slide and frame of a pistol. Then lubricate it with LW and then some other "proper" lubricants even up to the point of using s thin smear of a synthetic grease in the receiver and on the bolt. You'll feel the difference in drag between the various choices. And if you don't feel any difference then the LW is working well enough as a lubricant.
 
I have tried many of the solvents and oils referred to above, and have always gone back to good old Hoppes Solvent and Rem Oil. Now I will admit, that I clean my guns every time I shoot them and any that I have not fired in awhile I take out of the safe every 45 to 60 days and inspect them and give them a light oiling if necessary.
 
I will have Kroil, Hoppes, Rem-Oil, on my bench always, plus some others as, Lubri-Plate
CLP, Sweets, Butch'es .
 
Depending on the gun, I'll add non-chlorinated brake cleaner to the above items. In certain situations, it cleans out the gunk right then, right now - but it also removes all lube protection so you need to reapply afterwards.
 
I have tried/used many products in the last 50 yrs or so. Lots of good products out there. My favorites for bore cleaner are Hoppes # 9, Otis. For triger mechanisms Gunslick graphite/grease. For slides on autos Mil-spec/dry lube. I probably have used 20+ different bore lubes. What I don't like is the water soluble (amonia) types-although they do cut copper foul quickly.For rifles, I will use Hoppes #9 on a bore snake for 3-4 passes and then a clean/dry bore snake to finish. No crown or bore rifling damage from forcing a rod. Quick/easy. My semi-auto pistols still get brushed,moped with conventional kit/bits/brushes.
 
I just go with Hoppes' for cleaning and BreakFree LP for lubricating.
 
For blasting gunk out (none of my guns have any gunk in them but sometimes I'll clean friends guns for them) I'll use brake cleaner, WD-40 or even starting fluid (ether). If I have time to let the parts soak, I use odorless mineral spirits. For VERY serious cleaning you cannot beat hot soapy water (but doesn't help on leading).
 
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Guns are simple machines.

Pretty much any oil at all will do an adequate job.

Past that, its just a matter of convenience and preference.
I can't imagine what I'd do with a two-gallon supply of somebody's favorite Mobil-1 mixture.
I don't plan on living that long.

I think Kroil reeks.
For whatever merit it may have as a gun cleaner or lubricant, I can't stand the smell of it.
Same with Ballistol. Just awful odor.

There's an account on one of the other boards about a fella lubing his AR15 with Vagisil. Now, I have no idea how he happened to have a supply of THAT at the carbine course, but word has it the rifle ran just fine on it.
 
Most polymer pieces have no real cavities to hold liquids you don't want. M1911's are just the opposite.

If you use CRC Brake Clean or Electronic cleaner you can clean all of the frame components of all crud in about 90 seconds. The stuff evaporates quickly so you can then mist the internals with the lubricant of your choice.

On the Springfields this works well for cleaning and you can lube it as long as you have a good 'misting' bottle. Many misting bottles will not work with a lube. Maya Road, MR, misting bottles work well and are available through Amazon, dirt cheap too.

I have taken the striker out of the slide several times and it has always been clean.

All of the 1911's require much more intensive cleaning and attention.
 
Do Not get the misting bottles from Amazon. One worked and the others did nothing. Right now I am using a squeeze, nasal spray bottle with good results.
I am sorry about the MR, Maya Road recommendation . . . first bottle worked and the other 5 for friends didn't.
Mea Culpa.
 
US Marine Corps Firearms Cleaner& Lube
1 qt. Mobil 1 synthetic : 0,5,10W- 30W, do not use a heavier than W30 - ONLY (Mobil one: NO other synthetic.) **no ester based synthetic**
1 pt. Marvel Mystery Oil
1pt. STP
1 pt. ATF ( they prefer FMC synthetic or Mobil synthetic)
Mix well and store - you get enough to last a large group a very long time
Click to expand...
This has some of the makings of Ed's Red.

Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits or "Stoddard Solvent"
1 part Acetone
 
For the normal range dirtiness, CLP of some sort for me. I prefer Break Free spray on deal from wal-mart. Let the field stripped parts sit saturated for a good 20 minutes or much more, and scrub away with brushes of all sorts the entire gun. Wipe off and take patches through the bore and other tight spots, leaving a thin clean layer lube on all parts. Works really well!
 
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