I picked up a Remington R-25 and I am impressed with the rifle overall but the trigger gets a big FU. There is a TON of creep before it breaks around 5 lbs. My options are a drop in trigger or take it to the gun smith. I have used this guy before on some simple projects and had decent results. He says he can take the creep out and lower it to 3lbs. I can comprehend getting it to break at 3 lbs but is it possible to remove creep? He is about 20% the cost of a drop in trigger so I am leaning towards paying him a visit.
gun shop trigger job ar style trigger
- Thread starter jhnrckr
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There's a reason most aftermarket AR triggers are still about 4lb or heavier. Pull weights less than 4lb have been (according to Timney interview I listened to) shown to be possible to incur an automatic discharge.
The workaround is for the trigger to maintain approximately a 4lb or heavier pull, but utilize very smooth and polished interfaces to where the trigger feels lighter than it is. I would buy an aftermarket trigger instead of dropping my pull weight to 3lb, but that's just my 2cents based off the Timney interview I listened to.
The workaround is for the trigger to maintain approximately a 4lb or heavier pull, but utilize very smooth and polished interfaces to where the trigger feels lighter than it is. I would buy an aftermarket trigger instead of dropping my pull weight to 3lb, but that's just my 2cents based off the Timney interview I listened to.
No offense jackal, but dont you think the Timney interview may have been designed...just maybe...to sell TIMNEY triggers? Of COURSE a trigger company is going to tell you what they think you need to hear in order to get you to purchase their product. That being said, an aftermarket trigger is easily installed, and carries with it little of the risk of having a gunsmith adjust the current trigger that's installed, and you'll have a company backing the product, rather than a smith that says "Well, I did what I could."
highorder
Member
I have a trigger done by Bill Springfield. He has this to say:
" AR-15, AR-10, all makes, standard small and large pin Colt, stock single stage - 4lbs pull, very short, smooth, clean break. $39"
That includes return shipping, btw. In hindsight, I probably should have saved up for one of the nice drop-ins. Bill cuts and bends springs (which I support) and changes some geometry. The GI trigger parts don't take well to material removal and can be more susceptible to peening and deformation over time. My other AR's have GI triggers with just the slightest stoning.
" AR-15, AR-10, all makes, standard small and large pin Colt, stock single stage - 4lbs pull, very short, smooth, clean break. $39"
That includes return shipping, btw. In hindsight, I probably should have saved up for one of the nice drop-ins. Bill cuts and bends springs (which I support) and changes some geometry. The GI trigger parts don't take well to material removal and can be more susceptible to peening and deformation over time. My other AR's have GI triggers with just the slightest stoning.
briansmithwins
Member
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3lbs is lighter than I would want on anything besides a bench gun.
The best way to do AR triggers I've found is to use the stock triggers, lightly polish the engaging surfaces, and test out different triggers with different hammers until you find a set that works well together.
Stock AR triggers are usually pretty cheap to pick up as lots of guys toss them to but $250 Super-Ultimatactical-Triggers.
BSW
The best way to do AR triggers I've found is to use the stock triggers, lightly polish the engaging surfaces, and test out different triggers with different hammers until you find a set that works well together.
Stock AR triggers are usually pretty cheap to pick up as lots of guys toss them to but $250 Super-Ultimatactical-Triggers.
BSW
Red Cent
Member
Mr. Springfield probably does the following reading his comments. This little trick is used by a lot of gunsmiths.
There was another post a while back where everyone was bitching about doing your own triger job. Some who had sent their rifles out described the article below.
$39.00 and he pays postage back to you? On an AR15?
I did my Stag M3 and it works great. 3#s (sorry, I could have went lower), no creep.
If you try it, be careful with the safety.
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html
There was another post a while back where everyone was bitching about doing your own triger job. Some who had sent their rifles out described the article below.
$39.00 and he pays postage back to you? On an AR15?
I did my Stag M3 and it works great. 3#s (sorry, I could have went lower), no creep.
If you try it, be careful with the safety.
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html
wnycollector
Member
I own a half dozen AR-15's. Five of them have RRA 2 stage triggers. I have nothing but good things to say about my RRA triggers. I picked up my last RRA trigger from a seller over on ARFCOM's EE for $82. Here is the link to his ad http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_125/902851_NIB__Rock_River_National_Match_2_Stage_Trigger.html
Z-Michigan
Member
The stock AR trigger has poor feel but is reliable. You start changing things - specifically stoning the sear surfaces - and reliability almost always goes out the window. Many if not most of them start doubling after a bit of use. Then you need to replace it with new parts before some LE takes an interest in you. Doubling is also unsafe.
The cheapest route I would ever consider is clipping a spring or using some of JP's lower power springs. This may cause less reliability, but AFAIK it doesn't usually lead to doubling. Usually. Some "doubling" is in fact unintended bump firing - user error. Other doubling is a true mechanical problem.
The cheapest improved AR trigger I would personally use is the $60 or so Spike's Tactical "battle trigger". It's basically a GI trigger with a slick coating. Feel is somewhat improved, and it is still reliable.
The Geissele triggers are absolutely outstanding and once you try one you will never go back. They do cost a bit.
The cheapest route I would ever consider is clipping a spring or using some of JP's lower power springs. This may cause less reliability, but AFAIK it doesn't usually lead to doubling. Usually. Some "doubling" is in fact unintended bump firing - user error. Other doubling is a true mechanical problem.
The cheapest improved AR trigger I would personally use is the $60 or so Spike's Tactical "battle trigger". It's basically a GI trigger with a slick coating. Feel is somewhat improved, and it is still reliable.
The Geissele triggers are absolutely outstanding and once you try one you will never go back. They do cost a bit.
Adjusting the creep is so easy, a caveman can do it. Install an adjustable take up screw, which limits the reset to the front of the sear engagement. It's exactly what most triggers use, aftermarket or even factory bolt action. If it doesn't travel over a bunch of excess sear, it's not gritty or creepy.
Reducing the pull on a field gun should be reconsidered, handling a light trigger in rough terrain or getting hauled up into a treestand is exactly the point of the 5# pull. In the AR, the mechanics of leverage means it's the hammer spring that gets lightened or clipped, which directly affects the amount of impact the hammer imparts to the firing pin. Light springs mean light strikes, and hard military primers don't react well. Civilian loads with softer primers then become more prone to being sensitive to the non captive firing pin striking them when chambering. It's a delicate balance in a specific operating window, made particulary for military use. It's not like a typical civilian gun, and needs to be considered in it's specific design.
I recently assembled an AR15 with adjustable trigger screw and stock military springs, and when the opportunity for a shot came two weeks ago, I never noticed the pull. I DID notice the lack of creep, and that I still missed a jumpy deer at less than 20 friggin paces ....
There's more to it than a trigger can help, apparently. Don't let the precision range guns mandate the technology for a live target weapon. Two different jobs.
Reducing the pull on a field gun should be reconsidered, handling a light trigger in rough terrain or getting hauled up into a treestand is exactly the point of the 5# pull. In the AR, the mechanics of leverage means it's the hammer spring that gets lightened or clipped, which directly affects the amount of impact the hammer imparts to the firing pin. Light springs mean light strikes, and hard military primers don't react well. Civilian loads with softer primers then become more prone to being sensitive to the non captive firing pin striking them when chambering. It's a delicate balance in a specific operating window, made particulary for military use. It's not like a typical civilian gun, and needs to be considered in it's specific design.
I recently assembled an AR15 with adjustable trigger screw and stock military springs, and when the opportunity for a shot came two weeks ago, I never noticed the pull. I DID notice the lack of creep, and that I still missed a jumpy deer at less than 20 friggin paces ....
There's more to it than a trigger can help, apparently. Don't let the precision range guns mandate the technology for a live target weapon. Two different jobs.
Red Cent
Member
".....getting hauled up into a treestand is exactly the point of the 5# pull."
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