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Squib loads are very dangerous.

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That in itself isn't a squib by definition! The squib went undetected and was followed by a fully charged round or even worse a double charge. The OP was lucky! A double charge of 4.3 or any double charge of Bullseye is likely to destroy a pistol!

In general:
It is important to have a reloading space without distractions. Any interruption can disrupt the rhythm of the reloading sequence.
If interrupted stop, clear cases from the platen of a progressive and start over or double check loading block for proper powder charge!

Smiles,
 
Haven't read the whole thread, but do you happen to wet tumble by any chance?

I know for a fact that moisture can really interact with charges. I've had a few cases where I rushed the brass through the dryer without completely drying the pockets and have had exactly this happen.
 
I see on all the shooting sites I visit, that loaders with progressives complain about not being able to directly see inside a case after powder drop and their imaginative solutions with lights and mirrors (no smoke).

I'm a single stage loader, so I really have no problem...the powder charged case does not leave my left hand until a seated bullet closes the round.

One at a time is no slower than the perceived time saved in double handling a block of 50.
 
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I'd say that you didn't charge two of the cases and even though you think you looked into each of them you probably didn't. Review your procedures, avoid distractions and don't take shortcuts
 
I don’t wet tumble. And I haven’t thoroughly cleaned my power measure in a while. That’s something I’ll do next time I’m on the bench. I just make sure there’s no powder left over after each time I use it.

I’m going to the shoot a new batch on Friday of the same recipe. I will let y’all know how it goes.
 
I don’t wet tumble. And I haven’t thoroughly cleaned my power measure in a while. That’s something I’ll do next time I’m on the bench. I just make sure there’s no powder left over after each time I use it.

I’m going to the shoot a new batch on Friday of the same recipe. I will let y’all know how it goes.

Are you seeing any powder attaching to the inside of the hopper? This could indicate "bridging" inside the drop tube.
Static can cause this especially if it's really dry where you reload. Some reloaders find that grounding the powder drop to the center screw of an outlet mitigates this.

I had about 25 of 50 reloads with reduced power due to a lack of powder. No squibs or "kabooms" but bullets were literally bouncing off targets! I found a small piece of Styrofoam the size of a grain of rice stuck in the drop tube. It appears to have come from the "Styrofoam" disk from the powder container screw on lid!

As far as progressives and checking powder, it's doable on many presses. Hornady LnL has an extra position for flexibility. I use a "powder cop" die that has a rod that can determine the presence of powder. My Dillon 550's don't have this feature!

The fact tht you are using a single stage makes visual verification much easier!

Smiles,
 
Squib, ...
Cute name for a mayor mistake that could have serious consequences’

VVV DITTO VVV

Two squibs in 100 rounds indicates a problem, either with your equipment or your loading procedure.

I would evaluate both very carefully and thoroughly until I determined the cause if it happened to me.

chris
 
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You may want to change something to ensure you have positive confirmation of powder in the case. Better lighting maybe? or even mount a mirror in a spot to get a clear eye on it
It’s almost that easy. Some measures bridge way too easily. What I found was that vibration while dropping powder charges makes thing much more uniform as air spaces are more completely filled and bridged charges get shaken loose. If you run a vibratory tumbler on the bench during loading it is loud but effective. If that’s not something your willing to do, they made vibrating inkpens that had an unbalanced weight on a small motor, battery operated deal. Zip tied to the powder drop you get no notable noise and more consistent drops. I don’t really understand why this simple technology has not become more common in reloading. Very similar in content and context to what a lot of hopper bottom semi trailers see when unloading grain, and trailer vibrators are VERY common.
 
There are many hints running around for insuring good, consistent powder measure use (one I read the reloader used a "feminine muscle relaxation wand" taped to the side of his powder measure.). Consistent use of the powder measure also helps (same speed, same force, same style every throw of the handle). But the most effective, safest and simplest method is; look at a charged case to make sure it's charged. Gimmicks, and jerry rigging may make some happier about their reloading but K.I.S.S. always works best (and for progressive users there are proven methods like a "powder cop".)...
 
Are you seeing any powder attaching to the inside of the hopper? This could indicate "bridging" inside the drop tube.
Static can cause this especially if it's really dry where you reload. Some reloaders find that grounding the powder drop to the center screw of an outlet mitigates this.

I had about 25 of 50 reloads with reduced power due to a lack of powder. No squibs or "kabooms" but bullets were literally bouncing off targets! I found a small piece of Styrofoam the size of a grain of rice stuck in the drop tube. It appears to have come from the "Styrofoam" disk from the powder container screw on lid!

As far as progressives and checking powder, it's doable on many presses. Hornady LnL has an extra position for flexibility. I use a "powder cop" die that has a rod that can determine the presence of powder. My Dillon 550's don't have this feature!

The fact tht you are using a single stage makes visual verification much easier!

Smiles,
Thanks I’ll look into that. The powder always sticks to the side when I use Bullseye.
 
There are many hints running around for insuring good, consistent powder measure use (one I read the reloader used a "feminine muscle relaxation wand" taped to the side of his powder measure.). Consistent use of the powder measure also helps (same speed, same force, same style every throw of the handle). But the most effective, safest and simplest method is; look at a charged case to make sure it's charged. Gimmicks, and jerry rigging may make some happier about their reloading but K.I.S.S. always works best (and for progressive users there are proven methods like a "powder cop".)...

"feminine muscle relaxation wand"....aquarium pumps are cheaper, heard it from a friend!

Smiles,
 
Problem was lack of powder, question is for you to decide on how.
I locked up one of my blackhawk revolvers with a squibb. Gunsmith unjammed, pounded bullet out of barrel and proved to me beyond my doubt there had been no powder in the shell. No burnt or partially burnt powder any where.
 
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