Help diagnosing misfires and blown primers in my 25-06

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aggiejet,

If the bullet had a cannula then it may not have been the bullet seated to deep. Whatever the problem was I think you have taken the correct steps now to avoid it. I'm not trying to be a broken record this is for others new to loading that may be reading. As long as you use the loading manual for said bullet weight, powder, collective overall length (don't go below what the manual states as it can reduce case capacity increasing pressure) start out at the lowest powder charge recommended and work up to max load looking for pressure signs. If you find pressure signs reduce powder charge. Also verify anything you read over internet by me or anyone with a reloading manual... I have 3 or 4 they are a joy to read, and I also like to read how different procedures are used to address common issues etc.

As to the headspace inserts/bushings here is a link to them https://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Bushings/ that being said it looks like you have the wilson gauge which allows you measure your fired brass so you can set your full length die up to size your case, .003" shoulder set back should be good, but check several sized cases. Many people will size even less, however in a hunting rifle .002"-.003" should be your goal, just make sure you check several different pieces of brass after sizing to make sure they easily chamber.

Dial calipers are perfectly fine, I hope I did not steer your astray when I explained my set up, it's what I have found works well for me.. different tools used to get to the same end goal will work for different people.

You do want to resize all of your fired brass, and the same amount once you have your full length die set up. I think in some previous post people were worried that you had sized your cases to much, the measurement of .005" while not exactly where you want it would not cause the problems you were dealing with so you eliminated that, still as posted above adjust your sizing die until you get your sized case where the shoulder is set back .002"-.003".

Feel free to ask if I left anything out or did not explain anything clear, as well shoot me a pm if needed I'm glad to help out, and glad you have taken steps to fix this problem. Once you set up for hand loading this way you will appreciate the few extra steps, and methods to producing ammo you know will work as well your brass will give you longer service.
 
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aggiejet,

If the bullet had a cannula then it may not have been the bullet seated to deep. Whatever the problem was I think you have taken the correct steps now to avoid it. I'm not trying to be a broken record this is for others new to loading that may be reading. As long as you use the loading manual for said bullet weight, powder, collective overall length (don't go below what the manual states as it can reduce case capacity increasing pressure) start out at the lowest powder charge recommended and work up to max load looking for pressure signs. If you find pressure signs reduce powder charge. Also verify anything you read over internet by me or anyone with a reloading manual... I have 3 or 4 they are a joy to read, and I also like to read how different procedures are used to address common issues etc.

As to the headspace inserts/bushings here is a link to them https://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Bushings/ that being said it looks like you have the wilson gauge which allows you measure your fired brass so you can set your full length die up to size your case, .003" shoulder set back should be good, but check several sized cases. Many people will size even less, however in a hunting rifle .002"-.003" should be your goal, just make sure you check several different pieces of brass after sizing to make sure they easily chamber.

Dial calipers are perfectly fine, I hope I did not steer your astray when I explained my set up, it's what I have found works well for me.. different tools used to get to the same end goal will work for different people.

You do want to resize all of your fired brass, and the same amount once you have your full length die set up. I think in some previous post people were worried that you had sized your cases to much, the measurement of .005" while not exactly where you want it would not cause the problems you were dealing with so you eliminated that, still as posted above adjust your sizing die until you get your sized case where the shoulder is set back .002"-.003".

Feel free to ask if I left anything out or did not explain anything clear, as well shoot me a pm if needed I'm glad to help out, and glad you have taken steps to fix this problem. Once you set up for hand loading this way you will appreciate the few extra steps, and methods to producing ammo you know will work as well your brass will give you longer service.

Clint, et al

I watched this video several times
http://youtu.be/RuJYpm-qplQ

This video and your comments above indicate that a person should resize the brass to fit a specific rifle chamber, i.e., the one in the gun you are reloading for. This video indicates that a cartridge that is slightly over max is okay because that is what that specific chamber is set to. This would suggest then every cartridge fired from a specific gun will measure the same headspace. I don't have access to my fired brass in the pics in the original post, but as I recall, those cartridges measured differently. (I measured them after beginning this thread)

So if this correct, the key concept to full length resizing is to just resize a cartridge a couple of thousandths and not necessarily try to make it fit between the max/min steps on the Wilson case gauge, which is what I have been doing.

Thanks
 
I'm not up to date on the wilson case gauge so I can't help you on measuring using it. I'm sure there is a reference point somewhere on the gauge you could use to measure your case from shoulder to case head. In the video he states the groove min/max headspace being a .005" difference you can use this to set up your full length die sizing the case to set the shoulders back .005" which would be good enough, however once you get confident try setting the shoulders back .002"-.003" (some people use die shims that are very easy/simple to adjust sizing a .001" shim would be easy to work with) which should give you maximum case life combined with hunting ammo that will function/cycle thru your rifle/chamber.

If you have several guns say for a 223 then you may consider full length sizing back to factory spec in order to assure ammo fits in all your different guns/chambers, but if you have say only one 25-06 then you want to size brass that matches/fits in your chamber saving over working the brass/longer case life.
 
I'm not up to date on the wilson case gauge so I can't help you on measuring using it. I'm sure there is a reference point somewhere on the gauge you could use to measure your case from shoulder to case head.

The Wilson case gage is a datum based tool, the Wilson case gage has a datum. The case sits on the datum, datum means measured from. On the Wilson case gage the case is measured from the datum to the case head and from the datum to the case mouth. The Wilson case gage has been with us for 60+ years.

F. Guffey
 
All,

I got my gun out of the shop. The gunsmith deburred the firing pin and tightened the scope base.

I shot about 30 rounds of factory Hornady ammo on Monday. I attached the results.

I think these are the 90 gr GMX. Shots 4,5,6 were pretty good. Not so much for the rest. I was varying the rest I was using, to include using a cheap bi-pod. Keep in mind that the gun is primarily shot by my son, who has different cheek weld, eye relief, and I shoot left handed.

Just thought I would follow up and let you guys know where I am at.
 

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( I could only attach one thumbnail at a time. Here is another one)

This group is shot with Hornady 117 gr SST.

Again, a couple of good shots, but never got three to group, except for 13, 14, 15.

Btw, I measured all the fired cases and none of them need resizing according to my Wilson case gauge.
 

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Rather than stating "none of the fired cases need resizing" I think you might mean to say, none of the fired cases need the shoulders bumped, yes?

It's always necessary to at least resize the case necks, other wise neck tension will be inadequate. I would adjust the die to only resize the neck and body, thus leaving the shoulders where they are.

GS
 
Rather than stating "none of the fired cases need resizing" I think you might mean to say, none of the fired cases need the shoulders bumped, yes?

It's always necessary to at least resize the case necks, other wise neck tension will be inadequate. I would adjust the die to only resize the neck and body, thus leaving the shoulders where they are.

GS
Yes you are correct, only the neck needs resizing.
 
Once I've got my FL die's adjusted correctly for a given rifle, no other tweaking is usually necessary to maintain the desired shoulder location.

I tried neck dies way back when, and although they might reduce some working of the brass a tad, a properly adjusted FL die can be just as good.

GS
 
Note in previous post OP did measure the sized cases, and fired cases and it was determined that headspace was acceptable, however in the future OP decided it was best to reduce sizing of case to that of setting shoulder back around .003"
 
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