hog handgun?

[Gun Master]

.22 Handgun

OP, could you give info about the gun you currently use; name, barrel length, etc.....?

Also, I too am used to shooting the traditional one-handed method.
I sort of feel like I'm holding a posy flower basket two-handed.
But, with the recoil and muzzle jump of the short barreled guns, I'm considering two hands, .......sometimes.

My wife used to shoot a 1911 .45 ACP better than I did, in younger and healthier days. You might consider 9mm, .38 special, or eventually some .44 or .45's.

 

[pittpa]

Probably 45 colt for recoil. 5" could be a bullseye gun too.

 

[susieqz]

the gun i train with is a 22/45, 5 1/2'' bull barrel.
the gun i'm picking up friday is a S&W model 15-4, 38 spc, 4'' barrel.
the guys at the S&W forum tell me this m15 should shoot a 1'' group at 25 yards, with the right ammo, just like the 22/45.
i've ordered 700 rounds of ammo to test..

 

[Double Naught Spy]

He hunts Georgia state land and they ONLY allow .22 rimfire by law. He has a .22 magnum rifle he uses. He says one MUST hit them in the ear where they drop dead on the spot every time. Shot anywhere else, they run and wont be found. Hit anywhere else on the skull is a deflected shot.

So if the hog runs, how do you know if the shot was deflected or just absorbed?

 

[rodwha]

"the gun i train with is a 22/45, 5 1/2'' bull barrel."

Then a 1911 is likely your best bet as that gun is designed in the same fashion for that reason.

 

[murf]

that will probably be her next purchase, a $2,000 bullseye gun.

murf

 

[styles]

A Ruger Blackhawk with a longer barrel, 7.5 in 45 lc is an easy shooter and great for hogs. A little wrist heavy which reduces felt recoil.

 

[susieqz]

i just picked up a smith n wesson model 15.
it has the best trigger i've ever seen n is supremely accurate.
yup, it's a 38, but is a better gun than any ruger ever made.
i still maintain that pin point accuracy means more than weight n speed of bullet.

 

[ljnowell]

i just picked up a smith n wesson model 15.
it has the best trigger i've ever seen n is supremely accurate.
yup, it's a 38, but is a better gun than any ruger ever made.
i still maintain that pin point accuracy means more than weight n speed of bullet.

Of course it does, mechanical accuracy has to be present. Truth is that most Rugers are capable of the same, in the right hands. The m15 is a good solid choice for centerfire in Bullseye, if you can learn to handle it in double action.


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[susieqz]

well, double action may be beyond me but i'll sure try to learn it.
the thing is, i had intended to get the double actin pull lightened, but i can't risk messing with the amazing single actin trigger pull.
i had read the phrase ''like glass breaking'' but never experienced it before.
this may be the best trigger for hundreds of miles around.

thanks ever so much for your help.
hugzz to you.

 

[ljnowell]

well, double action may be beyond me but i'll sure try to learn it.
the thing is, i had intended to get the double actin pull lightened, but i can't risk messing with the amazing single actin trigger pull.
i had read the phrase ''like glass breaking'' but never experienced it before.
this may be the best trigger for hundreds of miles around.

We call that stinkin' thinkin'! You can do it, don't tell yourself you can't. Smoothing out the double action pull won't hurt the single action, in fact it may help it even more.

I know you've said before you have a. Interest in bullseye shooting, shooting single action is rapid fire is harder than becoming proficient with double action. Trust me. I've been there.


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[susieqz]

i trust everything you say. that's why i'm trying double action.
my initial intent was to shoot single action only.

midway says they have a mount that will fit a fastfire on the m15 with no smithing.
i have no question that i'll get smaller than 1'' groups at least, supported.

 

[ljnowell]

i trust everything you say. that's why i'm trying double action.
my initial intent was to shoot single action only.

midway says they have a mount that will fit a fastfire on the m15 with no smithing.
i have no question that i'll get smaller than 1'' groups at least, supported.

That gun will shoot 148 grain wadcutters like a laser beam, I'll just about guarantee it. I have most if my smiths I use in competition drilled and tapped, as they aren't collectors once you shoot 40-50k rounds through them, lol.

I'm using a ff3 on my 1911, but I definitely prefer the tube style instead. Next year when I pay for a custom build I'm going to switch to an ultra dot on it.


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[susieqz]

me too, as to tubes, but this has gotta double as a snake gun.
gotta be holsterable.
that's the value of fast fires.
i've bot every cheap brand of 38 i could find. i spent more on test ammo than i did on the gun.
i'm hoping to find something for daily use.
those wadcutters are insanely expensive.
special occasion only.

 

[ljnowell]

me too, as to tubes, but this has gotta double as a snake gun.
gotta be holsterable.
that's the value of fast fires.
i've bot every cheap brand of 38 i could find. i spent more on test ammo than i did on the gun.
i'm hoping to find something for daily use.
those wadcutters are insanely expensive.
special occasion only.

I'm a handloader, so I can load quality HBWC ammunition for much, much less than you can purchase the cheapest aluminum cased ammo. I highly recommend that you consider handloading for your 38. You can start with a very basic kit, probably for right about 100-125 in equipment. Head over to the reloading forum here and look into it, or again, you can feel free to PM me. I will even share my load data with you. If you follow some if my competition threads you will see that I have had some decent success with them.

I'm always happy to help a fellow shooter, especially a bullseye shooter, there aren't too many of us left anymore.


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[murf]

ljnowell,

do you use the same grip and trigger placement for double action as single action?

do you think a lee loader and a reloading manual would get suzieqz started with the reloading?

murf

 

[murf]

you may want to ask the mods to move this thread to the handloading section.

murf

 

[ljnowell]

ljnowell,

do you use the same grip and trigger placement for double action as single action?

do you think a lee loader and a reloading manual would get suzieqz started with the reloading?

murf

Yes, my grip wouldn't change, but I shoot everything double action with my revolver, including slow fire at 50 yards nowadays.

I would probably skip the lee loader and go straight to the smallest Lee Single stage. I believe it can still be had for somewhere in the mid 30s. Add a powder measure, hand primer, set of dies, and a cheap but decent scale and you have what you "need" to reload. Everything else is just a luxury. You could even do without the powder measure, but it really speeds things up on a single stage.

I reloaded with a similar setup for a few years.

 

[susieqz]

here's what i think will happen if i get set up for reloading.
i think i will find it a chore n won't shoot often because i didn't get around to reloading.
i'm a slow learner. for me to get better at bulls eye costs many thousands of rounds.
what i need is a set up where i could put brass in one bin, primers in another, then powder.
then, i'd like to push a button n go away.
i wouldn't mind boxing the ammo.

if i can't shoot 300 rounds/week, every week, i will never master this gun.

 

[murf]

suzieqz,

you already have the basics mastered. the only changes this gun brings, and you will have to master, are recoil and the double action trigger pull. the trigger pull can be mastered with dry-fire practice, the recoil may take a few rounds down range.

you may want to find a bullseye shooter in your area that can direct you to someone that reloads 38 spl wadcutters.

luck,

murf

 

[ljnowell]

here's what i think will happen if i get set up for reloading.
i think i will find it a chore n won't shoot often because i didn't get around to reloading.
i'm a slow learner. for me to get better at bulls eye costs many thousands of rounds.
what i need is a set up where i could put brass in one bin, primers in another, then powder.
then, i'd like to push a button n go away.
i wouldn't mind boxing the ammo.

if i can't shoot 300 rounds/week, every week, i will never master this gun.

If you can afford to buy 300 rounds of factory ammo, then by all means, have at it. But paying good money for mediocre ammo isn't a good deal.

Reloading is work. I don't enjoy it. But I do enjoy my scores on match day and without reloading that wouldn't ever happen.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

what i need is a set up where i could put brass in one bin, primers in another, then powder. then, i'd like to push a button n go away.

You can do it. All it takes is money.
You can have a setup similar to this one for the paltry sum of just under $40k ish.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCsUscgCDJ0

 

[CraigC]

yup, it's a 38, but is a better gun than any ruger ever made.

That may be true but it doesn't make hogs any easier to kill. I don't know how one thinks that a better made gun is a wiser choice than a more effective one. I've got revolvers from Ruger, S&W, Colt, USFA, Uberti, Pietta and when I decide to take one after big game, which is "better made" is never even a consideration. The fact that my S&W model 15 'may' be a better made gun than my Ruger SRH .480 is completely irrelevant given that the SRH if an INFINITELY better choice for hunting. Why we are even having this conversation is baffling.

i still maintain that pin point accuracy means more than weight n speed of bullet.

That's because you've never hunted big game with a handgun.

Accuracy is important but it's not the most important aspect. Handgun hunting requires proper shot placement but not absolute gilt edged accuracy. A Freedom Arms is the most accurate revolver ever produced but it won't kill critters any deader than a Ruger or S&W. Bullet selection is THE most important aspect and you do not have that in your favor. Accuracy and wishful thinking won't make up for poor bullet/load selection.

 

[35 Whelen]

here's what i think will happen if i get set up for reloading.
i think i will find it a chore n won't shoot often because i didn't get around to reloading.
i'm a slow learner. for me to get better at bulls eye costs many thousands of rounds.
what i need is a set up where i could put brass in one bin, primers in another, then powder.
then, i'd like to push a button n go away.
i wouldn't mind boxing the ammo.

if i can't shoot 300 rounds/week, every week, i will never master this gun.

I understand your not wanting to learn handloading, it isn't for everyone. Likewise I understand the confidence you're already developing with your S&W.

Using a handgun chambered for an ineffective cartridge simply because you shoot it more accurately and using a handgun chambered for a cartridge with which you couldn't hit the barn if you were inside of it simply because it's chambered for a powerful cartridge, are both mutually pointless endeavors. Pinpoint accuracy is very important, but if the bullet isn't heavy enough or traveling at sufficient speed to disrupt vital organs, then accuracy is wasted.

Fortunately, your handgun and it's chambering, while not ideal, I believe will work used properly. Since you're choosing to not handload it will behoove you to choose your ammunition carefully. My first choice would be a heavy (170 gr. +/_) hard lead Keith-type SWC loaded to +P pressures, but I couldn't find a commercial loading of that bullet. However, Buffalo Bore loads the next best thing which is a 158 gr. Keith-type SWC loaded to +P pressures. Midway sells it: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/81...special-p-158-grain-hard-cast-keith-box-of-20

The manufacturer tested it out of a 4" S&W 15 and it achieved 1160-something fps. Should work fine on broadside shots through the lungs, temple, etc.

So, practice much and keep us posted.

35W

 

[susieqz]

the neat thing about my model 15 is that
it doesn't hurt me.