How I dramatically improved my bench rifle shooting via ergonomic changes

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JimGnitecki

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This posting will describe how How I improved my rifle shooting from a bench via carefully considered ergonomic changes.


Why

This ergonomic development program started with a simple objective: I am a reasonably capable handgun shooter, and also a “casual” rifle shooter, but only a few months ago, spurred on by a close friend who shoots F-Class competition matches, I bought a PGW rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor, and a Vortex Golden Eagle 15-60x52 scope, plus all the associated required reloading equipment and supplies, to be able to shoot at long distances.

“Long distances” in my case is defined as “300 yards and potentially beyond”, simply because the only range within reasonable driving distance goes out to only 300 yards! To shoot at longer ranges regularly will ultimately require me to “commute” to ranges with longer yardages, and that means an almost 2-hour drive each way, so basically, a “day” outing to make it worthwhile! But, I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it!

I started the process of developing a suitable load, and soon realized that I was incapable of REALLY being able to properly evaluate the effects of changes in a load, because I simply could not consistently shoot proper groups that would be good enough to SEE the actual changes being produced.

This prompted me to start researching what it takes to shoot consistently enough to actually properly evaluate changes in loads, and realized that using Benchrest techniques, to some reasonable extent, might be the best way to minimize the human factor and highlight the ammunition factor.

That turned out to be a smart decision, because it improved my overall shooting accuracy and consistency rather immensely, as you will see below.


What I started with

I started with a very accurate rifle, a PGW M15 XRS in 6.5 Creedmoor. This rifle is the least costly model available from the Canadian firm PGW Defence, which primarily builds more costly very accurate sniper rifles for International military customers. It is a Remington 700 type bolt action mounted to an MDT XRS chassis.

The rifle, coming from a company used to equipping military snipers for battlefield shooting, came with a Harris bipod, and a muzzle brake. Its XRS coated-alloy chassis came with an adjustable comb and removable spacers that enable changing its 13” length of pull. There was also of course a 6 inch long 25 MOA Picatinny rail for mounting a scope. The trigger is a TriggerTech Primary 1.5 set by the factory to 4.0 lbs. This trigger is so good that I have never felt the need to adjust it lighter.

I chose to buy and mount a Vortex Golden Eagle 15-60x52 scope, which I figured would work fine at up to 1000 yards or more, and would make it easy for me to spot my shots immediately after firing them even at extended ranges, without needing to lose my position to look through a spotting scope. I mounted the scope using a one-piece mount for strong rigidity and the best chance of perfect axial alignment.

My rifle has a 24” fluted IBI 24" button rifled R5 match stainless barrel with 1:8 rifling. The factory test target showed a 0.58” 5-shot group at 101 yards (0.55 MOA). One of my first test groups, with my first self-loaded cartridges, which was only 4 shots as that was the number of test rounds I had left that day, measured 0.31” at 100 yards (0.30 MOA).

So, the rifle is clearly very accurate, but it is important to note that this did NOT represent MY accuracy at that time, as my 3-shot group sizes VARIED a LOT, with the worst being over an inch at 100 yards (i.e. over 1 MOA). So, I strongly suspected that my techniques, and specifically my personal and equipment ergonomics, needed improvement.

This is how the rifle looked upon initial commissioning: Posting ergonomics - 1 start - 1.jpeg


Of course, I had already applied the few things I knew already about what it takes to shoot a rifle accurately, for example:
  • Mount the scope so that when you hold the rifle in your desired shooting position and open your eyes, the sight picture is there without any extra movement being required to get it
  • Set the bipod height to keep the rifle positioned level front to rear
  • Find a shooting position and posture and hold that work for you

  • Optimize your hold and position to minimize transmission of your heart beat to the rifle
  • Proper breath control
  • Focus on the reticle, not the target
  • Proper trigger squeeze
etc.

Still, the inconsistency of my group sizes, ranging from over 1 MOA to occasionally as good as 0.25 MOA, all shot at 100 yards, made it clear that I was shooting with an inadequate degree of control.


What reading about F-Class and Benchrest taught me

I don’t plan on becoming a benchrest shooter, but in reading everything I could find on Benchrest shooting, including two complete books dedicated to Benchrest, and authored by Benchrest champions, I could see that I had a LOT to learn that could be helpful to my shooting in general and my load development especially. And I also found that F-Class, often called “Belly Benchrest” because it is fired from a prone position using front and rear rifle supports, applies a LOT of Benchrest techniques to non-Benchrest competition.

Doing the research showed me that for the best accuracy under controlled, not necessarily field, conditions:

- You should not just accept the first shooting bench that happens to be near you or available. The height, width, depth, shape, stability, material, and surface friction of the bench make a world of difference in how comfortably, controllably, and consistently you can shoot, and how long you can keep setting up your shots, and how long you can keep firing before fatigue starts ti affect your groups.

- You cannot just randomly use whatever donated stool or chair happens to be near the shooting bench that you choose to shoot from. You need a reliably stable platform of your own that can be adjusted to the exact height that minimizes discomfort, muscle tension, and fatigue.

- It is not enough to control the front end of the rifle with a field bipod like the Harris; You want a front support that can be easily and reliably adjusted for at least height (via smooth and predictable crank), or for both height and windage (via “joystick” type control), and has as wide a base as practical.

- It is not enough to support the rear of the rifle, and also aim it, with your body, because that requires precise and strong muscle input which tires too quickly, and which transmits heart rate and even breathing pulses to the rifle, destabilizing the sight picture on the aim point. Sure, bodily supporting the rifle works when hunting, but its far too imprecise and requires too much sustained energy when attempting to discern small differences in precision grade ammunition performance. You need a rear support system that enables you to support the rifle without muscle input, that allows you to make windage adjustments that are easy and durable, and that guides the rifle straight back through its recoil cycle and enables you to return to exact POA with minimized human input required.

- You need to be able to control the comb height and length of pull rather precisely to achieve reliable and durable positioning without muscle input


- Scope height above the stock is pretty critical in order to minimize muscle and eye fatigue

- Wind management is critical (but I had (and still have) much to learn before I ever do THAT well, and fortunately, the wind is usually quite calm in the mornings when I generally like to shoot, so learning proper wind management can be delayed a bit longer).


The Changes I have made

As a result of all of the above, I have already made the following changes that I now apply to all my ammunition testing shooting sessions:


Pick the right shooting bench

I have checked to see which of the benches at our local range are solid, and now consistently use one of them. I have learned that I need the “T-shape” of a proper shooting bench to accommodate my new front bipod.I make sure that any piece of carpet left on it is removed, and replaced for my shooting session by my own rubber mat which fits under my front bipod, giving the bipod a CONSISTENT surface to slide on during recoil. And, for my setup, that rubber mat does NOT extend to under the rear support i now use, as I have found that the plain painted surface of the wood benchtop makes it far easier to adjust that rear support while setting up my shot.


Rigid adjustable height stool


I found and bought a strong, rigid, adjustable height stool that I can adjust to exactly the right height (18.25” for my body dimensions and my specific shooting position), so that I feel no muscle tension at all when setting up each shot.


Posting ergonomics - 5 adjustable height rigid stool - 1.jpeg



Lightweight rear bag

I tried using a lightweight rear bag, which works really well for some people in certain types of rifle competition shooting (e.g. PRS), but found that it was not a good enough solution for me for ammunition testing from a bench. It required muscle tension to obtain and hold the right height for each specific shot, so I fatigued too early in my shot setup process. It also made reacquiring the target after each shot too lengthy a process.


Posting ergonomics - 2 lightweight rear bag - 1.jpeg



Rear monopod

I also tried using an adjustable rear monopod. That enabled fairly rapid, consistent, and stable POA setup with no retentive muscle tension required, and could potentially be a great field solution. But, it could not control rifle recoil well enough to make subsequent shots quickly enough, and I often found myself searching for the target sheet after a shot.



Posting ergonomics - 3 rear monopod - 1.jpeg



Protektor DR rear bag

A Protektor DR rear bag turned out to be THE solution for me. It has a 1 inch slot (the right width for my XRS stock) between 2 ears to guide the rifle stock. It also has “Slick Silver” layer on its ears that allows the stock to slide very easily without needing a dryer sheet or silicone spray. It’s very heavy, as it is filled from the factory with “heavy” sand that makes it weigh 20 lb versus 13 lb with regular sandbag sand. It supports the rear of the rifle with NO muscle input required. Elevation is controlled by the new Remple front bipod (see below). Windage is easily and reliably controlled by sliding the bag on the wood surface of the shooting bench with very little arm effort required, and once the correct windage is achieved, no muscle inout is required. The rifle slides about 5/8 of an inch on recoil, and by simply pushing the rifle butt forward to its original position (easily indexed off the back of the bag ears), I get right back on the POA with minimized time and effort. This bag is AWESOME.


Posting ergonomics - 7 Protektor DR rear bag.jpeg



Remple Bipod

The Remple bipod did for the front of the rifle what the Protektor DR bag did for the rear. It supports the front of the rifle through the sighting and recoil processes with NO muscle input and a very wide stance. And once adjusted and clamped to hold the rifle level from side to side, it holds it very reliably thanks to its Picatinny mount. It enables very fast, easy, and reliably stable elevation changes to get you right onto the POA.


Posting ergonomics - 6 Remple bipod - 1.jpeg


It did require the addition of a Picatinny rail to the bottom of the fore-end of the XRS chassis, as the Harris bipod it replaces (for this shooting role) mounts via s ling mount system:


Posting ergonomics - 4 Harris bipod mounting - 1.jpeg


I installed an aftermarket Picatinny rail to the rear of the sling mount, rather than replacing the sling mount, as I wanted to retain the ability to use the Harris bipod where the Harris might be more appropriate for the type of shooting being done (e.g. PRS):

The Remple bipod attaches and detaches via a quick disconnect built into the Remple itself.


Removed adjustable comb

The combination of above changes improved the ergonomics for me immensely, and improved my group size consistency a lot, but I was still initially consistently experiencing one adverse post-firing effect after each shot: the sight picture was moving about 10 inches to the left of POA, which indicated that the butt of the rifle was being deflected upon recoil about 0.126” to the right when shooting at 100 yards. This meant that the butt and Protektor bag were both moving to the right, with the bag sliding on the wood surface.

I eventually figured out that this was caused by the adjustable comb of the XRS chassis responding to pressure from my cheek, even when set to its lowest position, because of my apparently unusually low cheekbone. My cheekbone was deflecting the XRS chassis despite the very light cheek contact pressure.

The initial partial solution turned out to be to simply remove the adjustable comb entirely from the chassis:


Posting ergonomics - 8 Removed adjustable comb - 1.jpeg


This was possible for me to do because I use basically a “free recoil” hold on my rifle to avoid transmitting heart beat, breathing effects, and unintentional muscle tension to the rifle. The cheek contact is entirely unnecessary with the Protektor bag replacing it.


Moved scope more forward

Note that in the above ergonomic mod, I removed the adjustable comb. But you can see from the above photo of the rifle that the stock of the XRS chassis behind the adjustable comb is still quite high - as high as the lowest position of the adjustable comb, which was already too high for my cheekbone. So, even after removing the adjustable comb, I was still getting some contact with the FIXED portion of the stock.

The remedy was to move the scope mount forward on its Picatinny rail enough to eliminate that issue. If you look at this next photo, and compare it to the first photo in this posting, you will see that the rear scope cap now aligns with the FRONT bottom edge of the pistol grip, versus with the REAR bottom edge of the pistol grip.


Posting ergonomics - 9 Moved scope forward - 1.jpeg


This simply allowed me to position my head slightly forward to clear the fixed upper portion of the stock, while retaining the full correct sight picture in the scope.


Altered XRS stock length via removable spacers

Since I had now moved my head forward by about an inch or more, I figured it was now desirable to shorten the length of pull as well. That would allow me to have my right arm slightly more relaxed in my shooting position. So, I removed the 2 butt spacers. However, I then ran into a new problem: When I now wrapped my right arm around the rear of the shortened butt, my right arm was hitting, and MOVING, the Protektor rear bag. I could not simply slide the rifle butt further rearward in the Protektor bag, because the bottom of the stock on the XRS chassis is only level for a short distance forward from the butt and then goes “concave” (look at this photo):



Posting ergonomics - 9 Moved scope forward - 1.jpeg


Taking out the butt spacers had made the deeper portion of the stock too short to properly engage the Protektor bag if I moved the rifle rearward. So, I put the spacers back in, and lived with the slightly longer length of pull.


Raised scope via a Picatinny riser rail

I wear eyeglasses with progressive lenses. I realized that I was looking into the scope through the upper most portion of the right eye lens. This was creating 2 subtle issues. The first was that I was looking through the portion of the lens intended to provide the clearest LONG DISTANCE focus, but I was trying to focus on something very close: the reticle. In addition, I realized I was just a bit uncomfortable ergonomically getting my head low enough to get the proper scope sight picture. I realized that it would probably help to get the scope mounted a bit higher.

In theory, that would be “worse” in the sense that it would require even more holding the rifle completely level. But my homemade (laser printed) paper targets that I use for ammunition testing have a crosshair POA that makes it easy for me to ensure I am level by simply aligning my reticle crosshairs with the target crosshairs. So, no problem there.

The easiest way to get the extra height, while retaining the sturdiness and superior alignment of my one piece mount was to buy a Picatinny riser rail that fits between the rifle’s Picatinny rail and the one piece Picatinny mount. I chose the Wheeler Picatinny rail, in a half inch height, and a 6 inch length that matched the length of the rifle’s Picatinny rail, and thus gave me maximized odds of perfect or near perfect axial alignment with the rifle.

You can see the riser rail in this photo:


Posting ergonomics - 10 Picatinny riser rail - 1.jpeg



Recognized that the XRS chassis may not be adjustable enough to be ideal for my usage


The above sequence of diagnostics and ergonomic improvements have shown me that the MDT XRS chassis, while probably a great chassis for most people, is not a great chassis for me, at least when bench testing ammunition, because:

  • It is apparently designed for people with more typical cheekbone placement and width than I have
  • It has limited adjustability for both reducing comb height and for shortening length of pull to adapt to my facial dimensions
  • It’s obviously designed for general shooting, versus free recoil precision ammunition test firing
Since it is probably not hard to change to a different chassis, and not impossibly costly to do so, I could consider changing to a more adjustable chassis in the future. I am guessing that if I stay with an MDT designed chassis, the mounting setup would likely be identical and so not require any modifications to either the action or the chassis. But that’s a future consideration beyond the scope of today’s posting.


Results of these ergonomic improvements

The results of the above program of ergonomic changes has had a favourable effect on the size of my “best” groups, but more importantly a GREAT effect on the CONSISTENCY of my group sizes (i.e. a great effect on ALL my groups, not just the best ones).

I have been shooting 3-shot groups because until recently I became fatigued enough after 30 rounds fired to stop the session, because I was then testing my endurance, no longer purely the ammunition! But I plan to formally go to 5-shot groups, and 300 yards, starting with my next load testing range session. The results of my last session, still done with 3-shot groups, at 200 yards versus the earlier 100 yards, can therefor be properly compared on an MOA basis to the earlier groups. In fact, since shooting accurately at 200 yards is obviously more difficult than at 100 yards, the improvements that I have now gotten are actually a bit understated.

So, here we go: At my last fully documented and measured ammunition testing shooting session, shot at 200 yards, shooting 3-shot groups:

The average (average, not best) group size was 0.50” (under 0.25 MOA at 200 yards!)

The best group size was 0.25” (0.12 MOA).

The std dev in group size was 0.20” (under 0.1 MOA at 200 yards), which is a big improvement over my previous consistency.

The extreme spread was 0.50” (0.24 MOA)


So, yes, paying attention to ergonomics, and making appropriate personalized improvements that are targeted to the specific type of shooting being done, does make a big difference.

Jim G
 
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soooo.... you basically bought a shoulder-fired rifle, and turned it into a railgun?

Thats pretty cool!

I never thought of it that way! I wonder: how much of the ergo improvements will translate from ammunition testing into F-Class and other disciplines? I suspect that most of it will into F-Class, and some of it into other disciplines. One important thing I have learned is that I shoot far better when truly comfortable and free of muscle tension, and I want to proactively apply that to my other shooting endeavors, including handgun shooting.

Jim G
 
Thank you for sharing.

Quite a bit, if not all, of the info that you provided can be transferred to any long rifle.

I need to sort out three items on my newest acquisition, that you mentioned.

THANK YOU!!
 
I never thought of it that way! I wonder: how much of the ergo improvements will translate from ammunition testing into F-Class and other disciplines? I suspect that most of it will into F-Class, and some of it into other disciplines. One important thing I have learned is that I shoot far better when truly comfortable and free of muscle tension, and I want to proactively apply that to my other shooting endeavors, including handgun shooting.

Jim G

It's interesting, a few years ago I attended an Appleseed shoot... which reinforced basic shooting skills with a sling and iron sights. Even yesterday, out in the NV desert, shooting sling-supported prone with my iron-sighted M1a... if you aren't comfortable in your shooting position, it will translate to poor accuracy at the target (usually.)
 
Rifles must fit the user. Excellent write up on how your learned where the rifle was not fitting you and what you wanted

Now you have automated the rifle to the maximum extent and have figured out how accurate the rifle is by removing as much shooter influence as possible and it sounds like it is working (wicked accurate)

are you happy to stay on the bench? If so, enjoy and see if you can print tiny groups in the center of the target, or try a dot drill, 1-2 shots at a 1” or 3/4” dot at 100yds, should be easy right? try five one inch dots, 5 shots, don’t miss

At 300 try a 3” dot, one shot each
 
Rifles must fit the user. Excellent write up on how your learned where the rifle was not fitting you and what you wanted

Now you have automated the rifle to the maximum extent and have figured out how accurate the rifle is by removing as much shooter influence as possible and it sounds like it is working (wicked accurate)

are you happy to stay on the bench? If so, enjoy and see if you can print tiny groups in the center of the target, or try a dot drill, 1-2 shots at a 1” or 3/4” dot at 100yds, should be easy right? try five one inch dots, 5 shots, don’t miss

At 300 try a 3” dot, one shot each

Those do sound like fun games to play!

Jim G
 
Nicely-done article and pics. Bookmarked for reference. I got a "Lead-Sled" last year and noticed right away that it just got in the way more than anything, but didn't do the analysis and experimentation you've done. Thanks for doing that for all of us. :thumbup:
 
Interesting write up, thanks for sharing!

Thats a nice looking rifle! And nice equipment! But beware, its like going down a rabbit hole. Next up is better and more expensive loading equipment! Expensive brass, more expensive or even custom made bullets, ect ect.
 
Interesting write up, thanks for sharing!

Thats a nice looking rifle! And nice equipment! But beware, its like going down a rabbit hole. Next up is better and more expensive loading equipment! Expensive brass, more expensive or even custom made bullets, ect ect.

Yes, that's why I have ONLY the ONE rifle! That at least limits the potential for spending. :)

Jim G
 
Interesting write up, thanks for sharing!

Thats a nice looking rifle! And nice equipment! But beware, its like going down a rabbit hole. Next up is better and more expensive loading equipment! Expensive brass, more expensive or even custom made bullets, ect ect.
Quality tools , good brass and semi to custom bullets are standard equipment in F class shooting or most any discipline you wish to excel in.
 
Quality tools , good brass and semi to custom bullets are standard equipment in F class shooting or most any discipline you wish to excel in.

I have been getting the above results using Lapua SP cases, Federal SR primers (NOT Gold Medal), Hornady 6.5 120g pn 26175, and IMR4350, with a very conservative load that delivers only 2725 fps muzzle velocity. Loaded on a Forster press, priming on the Forster built-in priming system on the press, using Redding Type-S neck sizing (no full-length sizing required yet after 4 loadings on each Lapua case) and Redding micrometer seating die. Chargemaster Lite scale/dispenser. The Forster and Redding setup holds my BTO to basically within the accuracy range of a Mitutoyo digital caliper (about .001"). I seat .008" into the rifling.

Jim G
 
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I have been getting the above results using Lapua SP cases, Federal SR primers (NOT Gold Medal), Hornady 6.5 120g pn 26175, and IMR4350, with a very conservative load that delivers only 2725 fps muzzle velocity. Loaded on a Forster press, priming on the Forster built-in priming system on the press, using Redding Type-S neck sizing (no full-length sizing required yet after 4 loadings on each Lapua case) and Redding micrometer seating die. Chargemaster Lite scale/dispenser. The Forster and Redding setup holds my BTO to within the accuracy range of a Mitutoyo digital caliper. I seat .008" into the rifling.

Jim G
Sounds like good equipment to me.
Just wanted to add that I really appreciate your thread and really like the rifle.
 
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I have discovered that MDT offers an aluminum "bag rider" that bolts to the bottom of my XRS chassis. I have ordered it. That will enable me to remove the butt spacers to shorten my LOP to a more ideal length, while providing a longer, and more slippery, bearing surface to slide between the ears of the Protekto DR bag. I'll see how much difference that makes.

Jim G
 
Those do sound like fun games to play!

Jim G
They are fun games because when you can master them, and you can shoot tiny groups you can hit exactly where you want

many people who can shoot good groups will be just slightly right or left, or up or down of the point of aim (even 1/2”-1”). Each group may have a different impact in relation to the aimpoint, that variation is 100% shooter influenced
 
Nice read....sitting by a fire with my 4 legged froend on my lap, but then, I'm 77, like to carry / roll ALL my stuff to the line in one cart. My rifle shooting is done at 100-200 yds, depending on how my ankle is working (an artifect from my misspent youth chasing bad guys for my Uncle Sammy). If I can keep 1-2" group from bench I'm happy; 3-6" offhand or supported, I'm happy.

Someone said on here some time ago, when the fun becomes work, it aint fun anymore. Not scientific, but for me, true.
 
Following up on the idea of changing to a different chassis, and more about the bag rider:

I have discovered that I cannot get a rifle chassis that offers a lower comb height than the one I have. I have examined photos of many, many chassis’ from multiple manufacturers. They ALL have a minimum comb height that closely aligns with the centreline of the bore. Even the ones that have a highly skeletonized stock. Apparently, this is to mitigate any upward motion of the muzzle during recoil when being handheld.

I guess this makes sense given that Benchrest, F-Class, and ammunition testing shooting are not the high volume usages, or normally even ANY usages for rifle chassis! Most (all?) other shooting advocates a good “cheek weld”, shoulder pocket, and arm support of the rifle.

I guess it also implies strongly that my cheekbones are lower and wider than typical (Something I had not ever been aware of!).

I consider a good cheek weld cheek weld, shoulder pocket, and arm support of the rifle to be an inherent pulse transmitter for me, because when setting up a shot, I can feel and SEE the movement in the sight picture due to heart beat, This makes truly precise aiming somewhat more difficult. This is why a free recoil approach works notably better for me. With an almost free recoil approach, my sight picture shows zero heart rate effect, and then it becomes just good trigger press to get good groups at the proper POI.

So, I want to stick with the free recoil approach where basically the only pressures I put on the rifle are :

1. Use the Remple bipod’s height adjustment wheel to raise or lower the front of the rifle to get perfect vertical alignment

2. Use appropriate left or right pressure on the rear bag, via my RIGHT (not left) arm and shoulder BEFORE taking the shot, to get perfect horizontal alignment, and then REMOVE any pressure once the perfect horizontal alignment is achieved

3. PRESS the trigger, with only enough right thumb pressure on the chassis grip to prevent rifle movement due to the trigger press force.

Another “chassis” issue is that most of the chassis comparison reviews I have found complain that almost all the chassis tested have too long a minimum LOP. Most have a minimum LOP that is even longer than the already too long LOP of my XRS chassis when any butt spacers are in place. And, like the XRS chassis, they all then have too short a bottom surface to ride well and precisely enough on a rear bag. Unlike the stocks and bipods or front rests used in Benchrest and F-Class, they are not designed for free recoil or at least very precisely managed recoil strokes, but rather seem to focus on optimizing HOLD at the moment of firing.

BUT, at least some of the chassis manufacturers recognize that some shooting disciplines want better recoil management, and so they offer bag riders.

This is why I ordered the MDT bag rider:

The MDT bag rider provides a very slippery and appropriately shaped aluminum “skid plate” that is 5 inches long (see photo).


Posting ergonomics - 11 MDT Bag Rider - 1.jpeg


It bolts into the 2 threaded holes in the bottom rear of my XRS chassis, that MDT provided to accept rear bottom rails or monopods. The bag rider will guide the rifle chassis more smoothly and precisely during recoil than the short, hydrocarbon chassis skin by itself currently does. More significantly, The 5 inch length, which mounts entirely FORWARD of the butt spacers, enables me to shorten the LOP by removing the butt spacers entirely and still have more than enough sliding surface contact with the bag.

Note the odd shape of the bag rider in the photo. Note also the location of the mounting bolt holes (near the rear (LHS) of the rider). It is apparently shaped this way so that it can be mounted either “straight" side down or straight side up. Mounting it straight side down keeps the rifle LEVEL during recoil. Mounting it straight side up causes the contacting surface to be angled, which causes the rifle to tilt either upward or downward during recoil. MDT does not explain in their video the effects achieved by the upward or downward movement of the rear of the rifle, but I can speculate that PERHAPS:

- A slope on the bag rider allows you to adjust the elevation of the POA by moving the rifle forward or rearward. But since I have the Rempel to do this, and the Rempel, once set to a height, retains it perfectly, throughout the aiming, firing, and recoil of the shot, I don’t plan to use the bag rider fr this purpose. In addition, if you do use the bag rider slope to adjust elevation, you are changing your shooting position slightly every time you move the rifle forward or rearward to go up or down the slope. I prefer to keep my body position exactly the same between shots, so would not want to use the slope to adjust elevation.

- But, when keeping the position unchanged, and just letting the rifle ride the slope during recoil, a downward slope rearward during recoil will cause the rear of the rifle to move easier and faster rearward and downward, but will accentuate a tendency for the recoil to move the muzzle upward during recoil

- An upward slope rearward will resist the rear of the rifle as it tries to recoil rearward, and will slow it down, tending to put pressure on the muzzle to move downward versus upward

So, the slope IS going to affect speed of recoil movement and speed, direction, and ease of muzzle movement.

I need to find some online information somewhere on this "slope" feature so that I can understand the effects, and their constructive usage, better.

Jim G
 
Some chassis’s have removable combs. And that might work

another option is a high scope mount

with an adjustable comb, scope height is nearly irrelevant. Shooting at a fixed known distance, scope height is irrelevant

get things set where you want them thst works for your preferred method.

free recoil and no pressure is just that.
 
Some chassis’s have removable combs. And that might work

another option is a high scope mount

with an adjustable comb, scope height is nearly irrelevant. Shooting at a fixed known distance, scope height is irrelevant

get things set where you want them thst works for your preferred method.

free recoil and no pressure is just that.

I think I mentioned that I removed the adjustable comb in order to get my head low enough to see through the scope properly, and still had to add the Picatinny riser rail to get my head into the right position to be able to look through the scope properly. (I already had the high scope mount - Wide and low cheekbones that hit the comb before I got low enough) :)

Jim G
 
Beware the man with one gun for he knows how to use it.

This idiom has to die. It’s patently false, and repeating it in attempts to sound profound just sounds foolish.

Most guys who own “one rifle” have it stuffed in a closet and virtually never shoot it - and scantly know how to use it beyond common functional operation.

Alternatively, masters of anything commonly surround themselves with their craft. A guy who knows how to play guitar might have ONE guitar, but a master guitarist will commonly have several hanging on their walls, which all play differently. A competitive cyclist commonly has a few different bikes for different types of riding and different courses. A professional photographer will have multiple cameras and many lenses to support their craft. The best ropers and horse trainers I have ever met have had multiple saddles, a handful or more of horses, and ropes coming out of their ears. Every serious competitive shooter I have met in every discipline I have shot, from BR, F-Class, Bullseye, Service Rifle, Precision Rifle, 3 Gun, Cowboy Action, etc have all owned multiple firearms, not just their one competition kit.

This mystical BS “beware the man with one rifle,” is one of the least founded and poorly devised claims ever made.
 
Well, back in the day, when men hunted for food vs drove to the supermarket, there was some merit to that statement. One gun, one use, and they were very familiar with their setup, vs the fellow with a handful of play toys.
 
I think that’s a fair statement. I know with my stuff it is easier to develop loads with a rest and a rear bag allowing the rifle to track well and return to battery still on the poi, having a good solid bench and the scope set at an height that is quick and easy to stay on target.
Did the op mention wind flags ?
 
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