How To Remove Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II From Gun Finish

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scalper

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Greenwood, Missouri
I have some old guns I put Aluma-Hyde II on some time back. I want to redo them since I am quite a bit better at it now.

Anyone have any quick or easy ways to remove this wonderful stuff from my guns? Anything I might soak it in or perhaps some bluing remover? The last thing I want to do is sand it any more than I have too.

Thanks in advance.
 
Certainly not bluing remover.
It is a mild acid designed to remove rust, not epoxy paint. (bluing is rust)

I would suggest you give Brownell's tech hotline a call Monday morning and ask them.
Technical Support: 800-741-0015

rcmodel
 
Go to your local hardware store and find a paint stripper that contains mostly methylene chloride. This chemical will not harm the metal and is used in the aircraft industry and by the military to remove paint from aircraft. It will take the epoxy finish off. I used this on some 1911 frames a while back that had been finished with Brownells Moly-Coat. It took an overnight soak in the stripper to get it all off but it came off just fine. The stuff is toxic and needs to be handled properly, read the instructions.
 
Judging from what I have found elsewhere on the Internet, it sounds like I am going to have to sand it, albeit lightly, until I get it to bare metal. Since one of my rifles, it only coats the barrel, perhaps it will be easier than I thought.

However, I will contact Brownell's Monday, in case the have an simpler solution.

If anyone knows of a novel approach for removal, you might post it here. I have to say THR has often been a wealth of unusual, useful tips in the past.
 
Thanks Tom. Your post must have posted about the time I finished my last post.

I will give the methylene chloride a try. Sounds easier than sanding. And safer on the underlying finish.
 
Thank you to all for help!

Okay, FYI and for posterity, I have pasted below the official answer from Brownell's about what one needs to do to remove Aluma-Hyde II. I think the cure process depends on temp and takes 24 hours to 2 weeks. So if it is a freshly painted surface the stripper may work. If it is fully cured, a sand is the best solution. Tom, used it with Moly-Coat. I think the Aluma-Hyde II has a different component which makes it more resistant to chemical removal with the idea being that it will be highly resistant to even the toughest of chemical cleaning solutions. Since I plan to repaint it the same color anyway, I think the sand will be easiest. I appreciate all of you who helped with answers here.

Dear Sir,

If it's fully cured, the paint stripper won't work. The easiest thing
for you to do is to light sand the surface, de-grease, and re-spray,
without removing the entire finish.


Brownells Inc.
Technical Support
 
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