How would you paint a chipped up CZ82 to keep the original look?

[Capybara]

Hi all:

I've been looking to buy a CZ82 to replace the CZ82 I had a few years ago and had to sell off in the divorce process. The one I had was rather mint, I had to hunt long and hard to find it back in 2014 with almost no wear and I liked it, even carried it for a few years.

Almost every CZ82 I can find lately, even one that has a good price at my LGS, has either a lot of holster wear or one or both sides of slide have major paint chips. These guns were originally painted, not blued so it's common. I realize that by painting it, I will negate any collector value and that's okay, I'd rather do that than shoot a really ratty looking pistol. CZ82 isn't exactly a vintage rare pistol, even though it's cool and a C&R.

I don't think Cerakote will look right. Are there any other paints or processes that would come anywhere closer to resembling the original paint job on these? It's either a semi-gloss or gloss paint used originally. I don't know my gun paints very well, I've heard of Cerakote, Durakote, BBQ paint, etc.

Suggestions? Or should I just cave and have it Cerakoted?

 

[BBBBill]

Well Cerakote is about the most durable of the bunch, but they all will wear. The Brits used something called Suncorite, but that stuff is more toxic than all of the others, so best to avoid that. I would just do Cerakote in whatever gloss color that you want. H-109 is their gloss black. It should meet your needs.

 

[Rockrivr1]

I've rattle can painted a few handguns and have used either Brownells Aluma Hyde II in Semi Gloss or Duracoat in Gloss Black. Depended on what kind of finish I was looking for. If you go this route follow the instructions. There are a few negative reviews because people didn't follow the prep and time periods to have the paint set right. Give one a try, follow the instructions to the letter and you'll end up with a nice looking handgun.

 

[Capybara]

Thanks for the advice gents!

 

[Capybara]

A few posters on another board suggested that I sand or bead blast off what's there and cold blue it. I've parked a few AK builds but I've never cold blued anything? Anyone here done that?
Is it difficult? Expensive? Or simple and easy?

 

[Rule3]

I've rattle can painted a few handguns and have used either Brownells Aluma Hyde II in Semi Gloss or Duracoat in Gloss Black. Depended on what kind of finish I was looking for. If you go this route follow the instructions. There are a few negative reviews because people didn't follow the prep and time periods to have the paint set right. Give one a try, follow the instructions to the letter and you'll end up with a nice looking handgun.

I have used it also and it is great!
You can also use their clear coat as an extra layer.

 

[BBBBill]

A few posters on another board suggested that I sand or bead blast off what's there and cold blue it. I've parked a few AK builds but I've never cold blued anything? Anyone here done that?
Is it difficult? Expensive? Or simple and easy?

Cold blue is not very durable and is not really bluing at all. It is a chemical stain that wears off much easier than real bluing. I've tried them all.

 

[Capybara]

Cold blue is not very durable and is not really bluing at all. It is a chemical stain that wears off much easier than real bluing. I've tried them all.

Good to know, I don't want to go through all of the effort and have the finish just wear off. Perhaps I will just Parkerize instead? I will actually be putting some rounds through this gun so the ability to not have the finish fall apart would be important for me. That's why I don't like Cerakote particularly, it's not very heavy duty.

 

[BBBBill]

...Perhaps I will just Parkerize instead?...

Of course any painted gun will wear, but Cerakote seems to wear much better than the others. Properly prepped, sprayed ,and cured Cerakote can be very durable. Parkerizing makes an excellent base for Cerakote. One of the very best custom 1911 smiths does that with his builds. Fresh Park, no oil, spray and cure Cerakote. Done!

 

[carbine85]

I've used Aluma Hyde and Gun Kote on AK builds. Both are easy and look good. It's all about the prep and taking your time

 

[carbine85]

The Brits used something called Suncorite, but that stuff is more toxic than all of the others, so best to avoid that.

This is what the my Sterling AR180 is painted with. It looks cheap but it's one tough finish.

 

[doubleh]

Krylon Fusion is the toughest paint I have found and sticks to almost everything. I have to order it from Amazon as no one stocks it around here anymore.

 

[Nodakdad]

I have a few, worst one i stripped and rust blued. Turned out pretty nice, the others i live with the chips.

 

[film495]

can you bring the slide into a pain store and see if they can match the color with one of their little scanner things? maybe you can get a can of some epoxy type paint for metal and just use a small sprayer if you want to redo it. if they can match it, maybe just a few touch ups will do.

 

[SchmidtRubin]

Never looked closely at one but if it's like the 1935a I think the original paint was an anodized black paint.

 

[commygun]

CCR’s House Black would do the job-

https://www.ccrrefinishing.com/

But, yeah, a Krylon Fusion spray in black satin with a low ‘n’ slow oven cure would be good enough for an unpretentious shooter. And touch-ups couldn’t be easier.

 

[Ray P]

Had my first Vz82 bead blasted and cerakoted. Looked nice and stood up well to wear. The 2nd Vz 82 has retained it's original finish quite well, but if I do refinish it I'll go with cerakoting again.

As I understand it, parts for bluing really need a nice polish before treating. Parkerizing and cerakote work better with a bead blasted surface.