I Like the S&W ILS

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This is a first. There are those of us that detest the lock, some don't care. Never thought I would see one that LIKES it.

Of course Ralph Nader recieved almost 3/4 of a million votes in the 2008 Presidential election. AMC sold almost 300,000 Pacers. Potted meat still is on the shelves. I guess nothing SHOULD surprise me anymore.

That one would LIKE a poorly designed, potentially lethal lock that is a tribute of Smith & Wesson's capitulation with the anti gun forces is amazing to me.

Apparently the utility of the lock is appreciated by TDK but the application on the Smith is horrible on all levels. There are much better ways to safely store a weapon.
 
Freedom of choice.

I do not like them and will not buy a Smith that has one. That is my choice.

I do not care if it might fail, if it does no harm, if it serves a useful purpose to some. I choose not to buy one.
 
I do not like the lock, but I been wanting a good revolver and decided on a S&W 629. I never trust used guns too many stupid people. I ended up buying a 629 163698 from Buds Gun Shop. I would never trade or sell this gun. Reliable, accurate, fit and finish is excellent, good balance could not ask for much more.
 
You can examine every millimeter of a used gun, but only when you fire it can you be sure of its function. I seen and experienced many excellent shaped used guns go bad despite examining it.
 
You can examine every millimeter of a used gun, but only when you fire it can you be sure of its function. I seen and experienced many excellent shaped used guns go bad despite examining it.

I’m just the opposite, and I’ve yet to have a used gun go bad before its time. But I know what to look for.

Concerning S&W and Colt revolvers. The first thing I do is eyeball the screws, looking for dinged-up screw slots. The next is to see if there is any play between the yoke/crane and frame. Following that I cock the hammer on all chambers to be sure the cylinder fully rotates and locks. Then I try both the single and double action while feeling for something that’s “too good.” I avoid guns that show signs of questionable user modifications. In my experience if a gun passes these few simple tests it will be O.K.

Interestingly, I have had more recent new guns fail then used older ones.

Also it isn’t unusual to find used guns that really weren’t used. People buy them, keep them for a while – for home protection or whatever – and then sell them without ever firing a round. Sometimes they’re still in the original box with papers and accessories.
 
Also it isn’t unusual to find used guns that really weren’t used. People buy them, keep them for a while – for home protection or whatever – and then sell them without ever firing a round. Sometimes they’re still in the original box with papers and accessories.

Or ones like I've traded in a lot of. I just sort of got tired of them and wanted to try something else. Nothing at all wrong with them. I just didn't want them anymore. (Not saying I didn't kick myself later, that's different.)
 
You can examine every millimeter of a used gun, but only when you fire it can you be sure of its function. I seen and experienced many excellent shaped used guns go bad despite examining it.
Well, that's why you buy from an established local dealer with a used gun warranty. Of course, it doesn't matter to me. Actually it's better for me that you keep buying new guns, because you're one less person in the used gun market for me to compete with.
 
Actually it's better for me that you keep buying new guns, because you're one less person in the used gun market for me to compete with.

Actually... Well I was thinking that maybe you should.... I mean there are only so many and I want them all for myself.... :uhoh: :evil: :D
 
You can buy all the used guns you want but you will eventually be burned. People thank more powerful is better, firing way too powerful of shells through their guns and eventually something gives. When it does they sell it, before it gets noticeable. Majority of the time its something you can not see.
 
Also it isn’t unusual to find used guns that really weren’t used. People buy them, keep them for a while – for home protection or whatever – and then sell them without ever firing a round.

I've bought a couple like that still had a new from the factory look and feel to them. At least two more that were very worn on the outside from holster wear, but I doubt were actually fired more than a few times from the look and feel of the internal parts.
 
You can buy all the used guns you want but you will eventually be burned. People thank (sic) more powerful is better, firing way too powerful of shells through their guns and eventually something gives. When it does they sell it, before it gets noticeable. Majority of the time its something you can not see.
Hence, my comment about buying from a reputable dealer who warrants their used guns. Also, the revolver checkout thread I linked for you is heavy on mechanical checks, and, in fact, many people perform those checks on new guns as well. Further, the effects of heavy loads will manifest themselves before anything breaks. Things like end shake, loose or inconsistent lockup, cylinder out of time, and top strap flame cutting are all indicators. You're entitled to your opinion, but there are legions of shooters and collectors with first hand experience contrary to it.
 
OK, I'll bite... I do not like the ILS system and it should not be compared to a trigger lock. The main difference, when the trigger lock is removed it's really gone and won't engage itself. You can believe what you want but are you willing to bet your life or the lives of your family members that lock won't disable your SD weapon when you might need it the most? Please don't bother to actually answer my post because I just can't bring myself to come back to this thread.

I'm glad for you that you like the lock, good luck Sir...
 
Let me expound on my view of the ILS. Simply stated, to me, it indicates an 01-02 or later revolver, likely having the latest endurance enhancements - and being covered by a lifetime warranty. I would never order one new, given a choice, including the ILS. But, I don't have a choice - and I am a realist - there are far too many great new S&Ws to miss out on - and that is unacceptable - to me. I'll keep buying new S&Ws. YMMV.

As for the perfect world where a local dealer checks out his trade-ins - and warrants them - it isn't to be found around here. The term 'as-is' is resplendent on all sales receipts, as is the statement concerning the manufacturer standing behind new items, not the dealer. "No Refunds" is standard, too. Before the ammo/black firearm mad rush, most smaller dealers were barely keeping their heads above water. Buying from an individual is pot luck, as well - but the price is probably better - and you can generally check it out a bit longer.

So, I don't like the ILS, but I use the prescence of the ugly wart to help discern the newer revolvers from the older examples. I know it can fail - but the majority of said failures reported on the S&W site were from limp-wristing a lite weight powerhouse or dropping one to a hard floor, neither of which are desired ways to handle a revolver.

Stainz

PS Failure-wise, I worry more about the little ears on the hammer leaf spring in the K, L, & N frames breaking. Of course, that's me...
 
A S&W with the lock will never be as collectable as compared to the same model without the lock.
 
there are far too many great new S&Ws to miss out on
They do have some cool stuff these days, if you can over look the lock. I don't happen to have one with a lock, but never say never.
 
Does anyone know if Jerry Miculek the Smith and Wesson revolver champ has had his I.L. disabled? If not, has he ever had a lock up?

Just a thought. But he shoots more in a month than most of us will shoot in a lifetime.

Assuming (and I know what can happen when you do that) that he never has never had a failure with his J.M. .45 ACP, and he has fired it more times and got it a lot hotter than I will in dozens of lifetimes - what would be the odds of it ever happening to me?

Assuming again that it is true that he still has the lock and that it has never failed - and knowing that the odds of mine failing are astronomical - what are the odds of my gun locking up in the precise 5 seconds of my lifetime that I fire it in self defense?

Realizing that I am not a cop and that the odds of my using my gun in self defense in several lifetimes are pretty high as well - if I find that my assumptions about Jerry and his Smith are true - I don't think I'd worry much about the lock.

(I'VE DISABLED THE LOCKS ON BOTH OF MY CARRY GUNS BY THE WAY! WHY WOULDN'T I? MOMMA DIDN'T RAISE ANY FOOLS! I LIKE THE ODDS TO BE IN MY FAVOR AS MUCH AS I AM ABLE TO STACK THEM. :D)
 
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No, I do not want a lock. I would have liked to have had a Model 60 3" .357. I guess a Ruger SP101 3" may be in the cards.
 
I have two S&W revolvers with integrated locks, a 637 bought new seven years ago and a 686+ bought used (but never fired) three years ago. I've fired multi-thousand rounds, almost all range loads, from each. I have never used the key on either. I've been reading anti-lock web submissions for years now and maybe, finally, have learned something useful: "when the flag goes up " the gun is useless until the flag goes down. I know nothing about the insides of my revolvers because I think I shouldn't unscrew THAT screw (I leave that for my grandsons). So now my question: How does one get the flag to go down? Apparently this cannot be done with the key.

I am curious for an answer because, last range session, my 637 fired one shot and refused to let its firing pin touch another primer. Did the flag go up? S&W immediately emailed me a FedEx label, so they have my Airweight by now. I anticipate having it back in around two weeks. And from what I have read, I expect S&W not to tell me what they did to it. IS a puzzlement . . .

Cordially, Jack
 
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