I want to build a 1000 yard rifle

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huntinfool87

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I want to stay in the .264 calibers but not sure what one. Also im not sure if id be better off to buy a rem sundaro or something similar or just start from scratch. My budget is going to be around $1000 without optics.
 
If your budget is $1,000, you'll need to stick with a mostly stock rifle. I'd also look for a Savage 10, get a new stock and send it all to a competent smith to have it trued and properly bedded. Be tough to stay under a thousand though, even with a stock on the less expensive end of quality. I think $1200 would be more realistic.

Any of the .264 calibers will be well suited for targets at 1,000 yards. Take your pick there. Pros and cons all around - there isn't any one option that's superior across the board.
 
Bobson

Im not a fan of savage rifles I have owned 3 and had problems with all of them. And my $1000 budget is the starting point just the rifle before putting the stock I want and accessories I guess I didnt make that very clear. I would like to have the barreled action in the caliber I choose to be under $1000 mark. Thanks for your input and sorry I wasn't clear on that.
 
My bad, that changes things.

If you know you're going to replace the stock right away, and want to go with a Remington 700 action, you could save some money by just buying a Remington 700 ADL. It's the least expensive of the R700 line, but the barreled action will be virtually identical in quality to any other R700, including the Sendero (minus any QC slips that get through, which are equally possible with an ADL or Sendero). You could also look at just buying a barreled action itself; might save a few bucks that way.

Basically, unless there's a particular model rifle that's offered with a specific barrel (or bottom metal) configuration you know you want on your completed build, there's no benefit in buying a more expensive R700 for your particular goal. As far as the action is concerned, they're all the same.

Ultimately, for a Rem 700 barreled action, you should be able to come in well under your thousand-dollar budget.
 
For that matter, a second hand hunting rifle you could strip for the action would be a place to start. You will be replacing the barrel and trigger group and paying to have the action trued when the barrel is installed anyhow.
 
Like Jim says, start with a used rifle you're buying just for the action. But wait until just after deer season. That's when used hunting rifles are the most available. Guy misses a shot, blames the rifle and puts it up for sale. You buy it for the action and have some stuff you can sell to help offset the cost of a premium match grade barrel.
 
Very good advice guys thank you so much! Byt niw im faced with anouther question what barrel is recommended and I know the 700 action is what everyone wants but ive been doing a lot of studying on rigidity and it seems to me an inclosed action like the 783 would be more accurate due to the rigidity. Im sure im missing something because everyone wants the 700 action. Im also considering a Mouser action.
 
Here's my two cents. Buy once and cry once within reason. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a Savage Action. You can buy a brand new one from Bruno's Shooting along with a Krieger barrel in a heavy contour for under $1K. Save your money for another month or two and buy a decent stock. Now buy some decent bottom metal. You can have a competent gunsmith assemble the parts for $500. Yes thus will cost you $1,500 or so but you are starting with new parts of known quality. In the long run you will spend more money trying to turn a hunting rifle into a 1,000 yard target gun.
 
Put some thought into what your total budget is and what you're wanting to do with the rifle. When you start adding a new stock (~$800), scope ($1,000+), mounts (~$250), trigger (~$200), bipod or rest ($75+), enough components for the first 1,000 rds (~$1,000) you start talking about real money.

A factory rifle suited to what you're wanting to do may be the best fit, allowing for more spare funds for a good scope and plenty of brass, powder and bullets bought in bulk (same lot #'s).
 
For the cost of installing a barrel I made a nice target rifle with my Rem 700 simply by replacing the worn barrel with a heavy straight cylinder, then adding ballast to the butt of the stock to balance it. The bolt was trued when finish chambering was done. The synthetic stock was easily opened up for the larger barrel with a 1 1/4' dowel wrapped in sandpaper.

If you go this route I highly recommend that you let the pros do the finish chambering, even though you may feel that you understand the theory and may be tempted to tackle it yourself. But don't be afraid to insist on specifications like neck size or leade, even if you have to order a special reamer.
 
For that matter, a second hand hunting rifle you could strip for the action would be a place to start. You will be replacing the barrel and trigger group and paying to have the action trued when the barrel is installed anyhow.

I agree with this.

Used gun, new barrel, trigger, and a good stock.

Krieger barrels (among others) will fit the exact barrel profile you want, chambered as you want (usually with a couple "options" on throat), to the action you send them, and it's not too terribly expensive. Just takes a while to get on the "list" - my order was processed in about 9 months.

ETA:

This 300 Win Mag rifle started life as a Savage 110 BVSS (I think). It's not a "used" rifle as I bought it new, but shot the original barrel out over the first decade of life (it was still very accurate just fouled up REAL fast; didn't like having to clean it every 3 shots). It sat in the cabinet for a few years, then I got it rebarreled with a krieger barrel in 2012. Choate stock and aftermarket trigger were added at some point to make up for deficiencies in the originals that were detrimental to long range shooting. set the length of pull and comb height to my taste on the choate stock to reduce back & neck fatigue shooting prone. For the first 15 years it was topped with Leupold glass, in 2013 finally saved up enough to drop Nightforce glass on it. The sinclair bipod was the latest addition this spring. The only thing really "stock" on the rifle at this point is the action.

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a .264 caliber is an excellent choice. Go with a common caliber. 260 rem or 6.5 cm can both be formed from 308 brass.

Box Stock, the remington 700 5R, Tikka Sporter (or any heavy barreled Tikka), or that new Sig SSG 3000 are 1000 yard capable. However all of these choices are slightly over 1000.

Under 1000, the Remington 700 police, and similar models may or may not be 1000 yard capable. My 700 Police was, shooting 1 moa out to about 850 yards. If you go with a Remington, get something with a composite stock (fiberglass) rather than the polymer ones You can skim bed it and have a decent shooter.

The Tikka sporter is a real gem. It's built like a custom gun for a budget price. Slick action with 75 degree bolt throw compared to 90 on the 700. Trigger is as good as aftermarket rem 700 triggers. It also shoots bugholes. I'm getting 1/3rd-1/2 moa at 100 yards, and in my hands under 1 moa consistently at extended ranges. It shoots as well or better than my GAP Gladius, which is over double the price. Though I do have my tikka in a KRG chassis, with a brake.
 
I think I am going to ho with a Remington 700 sps acc tactical. I know I will need a new stock right away but what about the trigger? It has the x-mark pro is that any good? Im also going to have my stock cut for the clip fed bottom metel.
 
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