I'm going to do it!

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eastwood44mag

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I'm finally going to build my first rifle!

-Savage 110 action (to be cannibalized from an existing gun)
-A&B or Shillen barrel
-Rifle Basix Trigger
-Bell and Carlson stock (probably), which will be glass bedded

The problem:

I can't pick a caliber. The existing gun is in .270 Win. I HATE .270, and will probably sell off the original barrel once I burn up the last two boxes of ammo. Since I have enough heavy hitters (8mm, .300, and a couple DGR's on the way), I'd like to get something in a varmint/deer set-up. Already have my .204 varmint rifles, and .243's for closer range deer and longer range varmint, so I'm looking to fill-in the gaps. Right now, I'm leaning towards a .257 Roberts or a .25-06. In either case, I'll have my barrel redone for an Ackley Improved round, to increase the utility of the gun.

Any suggestions? I've found a couple master gunsmiths who are willing to guide me through the nitty-gritty, but I'm always looking for more input.

Thanks, all.
 
Either an A&B or a Shilen barrel? That's kind of opposite ends of the spectrum!

IMHO, there's not much point in going to a .25-06 AI. You're already shooting a barrel-burner, and Ackley admitted that this cartridge gained very, very little by 'improving it.' I'd suggest a .257 Weatherby Mag if you want a REAL barrel-burner! And, I'd also recommend something besides either a Shilen or A&B barrel for that cartridge. Both tend to be a bit 'soft' for a high intensity cartridge like that.

The .257, either standard or AI, is an outstanding cartridge. But, the .243 very nearly killed it, because it'll do everything the .257 will do. Except shoot a 120 grain bullet! My vote is for the .257 Roberts! :neener:
 
Somewhere between the A&B and Shilen would be Shaw barrels. They have Saveage barrels fully chambered with stock profiles

all you need are barrel & receiver wrenchs and headspace gauges. easy to do

Shaws run about $160 or so for chrome moly stainless around 240
 
I have used many A&B barrels on hunting rifles with good success I just Lapp the bores, I get under 1 inch easily.
 
As it stands now:

-Timney trigger ($50)
-Shillen/Shaw/Douglas bbl ($?)
-B&C (?) stock ($80 used)
-Used 110GXP3 ($120 OTD)
-AcraGlass bedding (?)

I'm thinking I can get it done for less than $600 easily.

.250 Savage AI, .257 Roberts AI, 6.5x284 (AI?), or other round I should consider?

Thanks.
 
How about something a little crazy? Get a barrel in .300 Whisper, and have it threaded for a suppressor. .300 Whisper can be loaded up to around 7.62x39mm and .30-30 levels, or loaded down to 220-240 gr at ~1000 fps for nearly silent firing with a good suppressor. And the full power stuff would sound like a .22, through the can.
 
If I lived in a free state, I would probably do that, but here in the People's Republic of Illinois, we aren't allowed nice things like suppressors.
 
Semi-unrelated, but why do you hate the .270? I mean, I can understand people preferring something else, but I don't think I've ever heard of actual hatred for Jack's cartridge.
 
Dislike the .270 so because I can't get one to shoot worth a plug nickle or without kicking like a mule--I've shot .300's that kick less than half as much.
 
Have you thought about the 6.5x55? Great cartridge if you're a handloader. Lightweight 85 - 90 grain bullets for varmints, midweight 100 - 120 grains for thin skinned animals and heavier 140 - 160 bullets for larger critters. A versatile round that has a well deserved reputation of being quite accurate.
 
OK, so we hit a snag here:

I was putting in the Timney, which works GREAT from dry firing tests. I took all the creep and over-travel out of it, and brought it down to the minimum pull (can't be over 2.5#, I would guess, but it's a "Featherweight", so you tell me).

Anywho, I flubbered my safety on the gun. There's a small metal spring on the left side of the trigger group that runs front to back, and allows your safety switch to be functional. Somehow, that came loose, and now I've got a safety switch that moves, but does nothing--it will fire regardless of switch position. Anyone have advice on how to put that back into place? I've tried unsuccessfully a couple of times, and figured I would ask before I visit my favorite gunsmith.

Thanks, all.

Snow Dog-

I've considered the 6.5x55, but torn between it and a 6.5x257 AI, just to have a softer shooting load. I'm pretty well sold on the 6.5 bullet, though.
 
Dislike the .270 so because I can't get one to shoot worth a plug nickle or without kicking like a mule--I've shot .300's that kick less than half as much.

There must be some sort of flaw in the space/time continuum down your way. You should probably notify someone. :scrutiny: :p
 
No idea on the safety, but how about 6.5 Grendel? Nearly matches 6.5x55 ballistics. It's inherently very accurate, and Wolf ammo is available just for blasting. And you could get an AR-15 in the same caliber (maybe? I dunno IL laws).

I'm just suggesting the kind of things I'd buy, pretty much.
 
270 with greater kcik than the 300?

I suppose that your gun is extra-light and the 300 that you shot was extra heavy or had a muzzle brake was still extra heavy. There is no way that a 270 kicks harder using standard load data, even if you shot a Jack O Conner load in the 270 and a wimpy type 300 load.

I would stick with the 270 as it can do anything that the other calibers can do and more. If you don't like the kick on your gun, change the stock or (I hate to say this for a 270) put on a muzzle break and have it shoot with the recoil of a 243 or less and have the power and versatility of a 270.

BTW, good luck with your gun build. I am working on my 4th custom gun in 243 for my son, I have built 3 270's already.

Regards.
 
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