Is there a 45acp....

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I was going to suggest the PPQ45, but it comes with a polygonal barrel, so if you're shooting lead, that might be an issue.

Other than that, I second (or third) the CZ97 in non-decocker version.
 
Maturin said:
I was going to suggest the PPQ45, but it comes with a polygonal barrel, so if you're shooting lead, that might be an issue.

Other than that, I second (or third) the CZ97 in non-decocker version.
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I've yet to worry about leading in a porygonal rifled barrel. That was perpetuated by glock after too many people shoot hundreds of rounds of lead (and being glock, they never serviced the weapon) and chased it with a jacketed bullet, in turn splitting the barrel. If you clean your guns, the lead in porygonal is nullified.
 
Sounds to me like a 1911 would fit the description. As to lead in the polygonal barrel - I've never had a problem either. Regular maintenance has never showed me any concern about lead buildup. I don't care what the manufacture says about that - my experience tells me different.
 
Robert101 said:
Sounds to me like a 1911 would fit the description. As to lead in the polygonal barrel - I've never had a problem either. Regular maintenance has never showed me any concern about lead buildup. I don't care what the manufacture says about that - my experience tells me different.
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Exactly. Just lawyer talk for the polygonal rifling.
 
trentcwwilson said:
I've yet to worry about leading in a porygonal rifled barrel. That was perpetuated by glock after too many people shoot hundreds of rounds of lead (and being glock, they never serviced the weapon) and chased it with a jacketed bullet, in turn splitting the barrel. If you clean your guns, the lead in porygonal is nullified.
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There are some issues with shooting lead loads in Glock barrels.

Glock barrels have longer leade with very smooth, rounded start of rifling that allows the bullet to jump deeper into the barrel before chamber pressure starts to build. This leaks more gas and blows liquefied lube off the bullet which deposits burnt lube fouling in the barrel and sends essentially bare lead bullet down the barrel which aggravates leading - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9979745#post9979745

Fouling/leading build up in the barrel, if not checked and cleaned out will continue to accumulate and narrow the bore which will decrease accuracy and increase chamber pressure. When I shoot lead loads in factory Glock barrels, I will take a mini cleaning kit and inspect the barrels around 200-300 rounds and clean as necessary.

As to shooting jacketed loads after shooting lead loads to remove leading, I think many people mistake "flake-like" fouling deposits with "leading" and claim shooting jacketed load will clean out the leading. If Glock barrel truly leads, it's not easy to remove it. - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm
 
bds said:
There are some issues with shooting lead loads in Glock barrels.

Glock barrels have longer leade with very smooth, rounded start of rifling that allows the bullet to jump deeper into the barrel before chamber pressure starts to build. This leaks more gas and blows liquefied lube off the bullet which deposits burnt lube fouling in the barrel and sends essentially bare lead bullet down the barrel which aggravates leading - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9979745#post9979745

Fouling/leading build up in the barrel, if not checked and cleaned out will continue to accumulate and narrow the bore which will decrease accuracy and increase chamber pressure. When I shoot lead loads in factory Glock barrels, I will take a mini cleaning kit and inspect the barrels around 200-300 rounds and clean as necessary.

As to shooting jacketed loads after shooting lead loads to remove leading, I think many people mistake "flake-like" fouling deposits with "leading" and claim shooting jacketed load will clean out the leading. If Glock barrel truly leads, it's not easy to remove it. - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm
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And chasing the lead with a jacketed splits the barrels.
 
RugerBob, you should ask this question at the 3gun match. Ask the shooters there why they shoot the gun they shoot. As I'm sure you know most are very friendly and will probably let you shoot their gun and see if it's for you. See what the top shooter are using and ask them why.

At the local matches near me there are a lot of 1911s but in the factory division I see a lot of Glocks, S&W M&Ps, Springfields and the like, probably because of the costs.

A full size M&P in .45 ACP will run you under $600 and serve you well but only if you like how it feels in your had and how it points for you. The changeable backstraps will help there.
 
True Archangel, but most of the ones I have met are using 9mm. Thats my issue. I cast 45 acp, making reloading cheap . I have 1000's of case's. When I go get my brass they ask why a 45? Well, I don't know. I just like the 1911 I have and figured I'd expand to larger capacity.
 
When you say "same trigger as a 1911", does a DA/SA count as opposed to a SAO??

I will mirror what many have said:
-CZ97
-SIG P227

Or one of it's many CZ psuedo-clones:
-SAR k2-45
-EAA Witness
-IWI/IMI Jericho/Baby Eagle

I'm not a huge fan of the double stack Para P14. I sold mine. It was OK. It just seemed picky and would get frustrating.

If you are open to a striker gun, Walther PPQ45, Springfield XDM, Ruger SR45 all have very nice triggers.
 
I have been looking at all of them. Nice. Checking the local Cabelas this weekend to get a feel for them, and we have another place KTP I will also be checking. Kimbers and STI seem a little expensive and prefer to stay under $7-800 range.

Thanks for the replies all. Bob
 
RugerBob said:
I have been looking at all of them. Nice. Checking the local Cabelas this weekend to get a feel for them, and we have another place KTP I will also be checking. Kimbers and STI seem a little expensive and prefer to stay under $7-800 range.

Thanks for the replies all. Bob
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Don't rule out Kimber. The entry guns like the Custom Two Tone price has dropped to $699. Had one, never did the recommended break in, and never had an issue. If your are dead set on the break in, just polish the barrel with lapping compound.ade a good shooter out of my old smiths.
 
Want more rounds? Get 10 round mags.
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Roger this, something like a Springfield Range Officer with some Wilson 10rd. magazines would fit your budget and be a good & reliable way to go.
 
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Para Ordnance is now a subsidiary of Remington. Are they actually making any guns?
You might look at the RIA double stacks made by Armscor of the Philippines.

I have a shop built double stack, a Caspian slide on an STI frame. It is a good shooter but is very particular about its ammo.
A real 1911 and some 10 round single stack magazines would be a surer bet.
 
Everything in your original post screamed 2011. And the offering from Rock Island is the kid in the back of the class about to pee himself screaming "pick me pick me" RIA seems to be putting out some great guns for the money, I just don't trust their ammo anymore. In the 2011 range you have factory built race guns like the sti that are quite expensive, middle of the road offerings like the p14, and then the bargain basement RIA. When it gets into a competition gun though, my experience is that people buy the gun, then double or triple the price by adding custom bits. Might as well start cheap so you can do more to the gun from the start, and with standardized parts it's not like your getting anything drastically different when you buy a 1000 dollar gun and add 2000 to it, or if you buy a 3000 dollar gun and add 2000 to it.
 
Think I have settled on the Para Ordnance 14 45. Going to try and get one tomorrow at one of our local shops. I'll let you know what I do get and thanks for all the replies.
Bob
 
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