Nematocyst wrote:
My original motivation for extra length is related to that. I'm practicing the move in which someone grabs my shoulder or reaches for my arm; I grab their arm instead with my free hand while hooking the KYK (kubotan/yawara/koppo) over their grabbing wrist, then using the thumb of my free hand to pull the free end of the stick down against the radius (bone) while stepping back. I can tell it is a very effective maneuver even from my extremely limited practice with it so far. It's also another good reason to use kubotan v koppo, me thinks.
It sounds like you are describing a "flip over/X" trap (normally performed with a longer stick). IF you are coming from underneath, placing the stick on top of the wrist/arm, crossing your other arm underneath (forming an X), hooking the stick with your thumb then stepping back, that is a trap.
A quicker (but weaker) method to intercept a grab, or remove a lapel grab (same side) is to use a "gasket grip" with the Kubotan. Keep in mind, this technique utilizes a "rub point" (hard object against bone or nerve) and may not be useful if your opponent has heavy clothing covering the arm.
In any case, either method is most effective when kept close to the Styloid Process of either the Ulna or Radius.
Actually, in the case of a single hand (same side) lapel or shoulder grab, I'm not really concerned with THAT hand anyway. I can pretty much remove it whenever I want to. Its the other hand...that is going to clock you.
You just need to "read" the situation and determine if a compliance technique is sufficient to end the altercation or something more persuasive is needed.
This all raises another question for me, directly related to the original intention of this thread: what is the optimal length stick (and diameter) for a given hand size?
Depends on your purpose for the stick. If you are one of those who insist on using it as a
keychain, then pick something fairly short. If you actually want something you can fight with, get something a bit longer.
I have smaller hands; well, thin at least, with sort of average length fingers.
Finger length and musculature of the hand makes no difference. Measure the distance across your knuckles (hand closed in a fist) and pick a stick that is at least 1.5" longer. Most adult males will have a hand span of about 4". So a stick 5.5" would be the practical minimum IMO.
The 5.5" metal stick that Conwict gifted me feels excellent for strikes, but feels a little short for "hooks". It feels like 6" would be better, but would 6.5" or even 7" be too long?
5.5" is good for strikes and easier to carry than longer lengths. For hooking, you'll probably want something about an inch longer...for the following reasons.
1. If your opponent has on heavy clothing, you'll need the extra length to get a "purchase". Attacks don't just happen in the summertime when everybody is in a short sleeve shirt.
2. When Passing or Trapping, the stick may not be perpendicular to the direction you want to move the limb (stick has trapped/purchased arm or hand at an angle).
I'm interested in exploring the trade-offs of length with advice from those of you that have actually trained with them.
Once you get beyond strikes...a little extra length is useful for other techniques. BUT...if you don't plan to learn anything other than the basics, there is no need for anything longer than 5.5"
But I think the same is not true for pocket sticks. I intend to start a practice group as soon as I learn a few basic techniques, enough to demonstrate some of the basics to another. Then, we can learn together and critique together.
Yes, you'll need a training partner. He/She doesn't need to be an instructor, just someone you can interact with.
I don't remember who first posted the importance of having a partner to practice/spar with...but they were spot on!
Alas, there is no stick teacher here, either.
You can learn a lot by yourself. No doubt you'll miss out on some of the finer points, perhaps even develop a few vices, but you'll figure what is practical and what is "just for show".
Except one thing: my initial feeling is that I like either metal or wood better than polymer. Metal in particular has a ... heft to it, some mass. Even though the polymer is hard and rigid (though palpably not as hard and rigid as metal), it lacks the extra few ounces of mass that just intuitively feels good to me.
Unless your purpose is to use the stick as a fist-filler, then try to stay as light as possible. Added weight will only slow down your hand motions and pocket carry becomes noticeable as well (the weight). The advantage of the Kubotan is primarily realized in the form of a force multiplier (same force applied over a small area). Striking will be your main use for it in street environment (for citizens).
