leading

[Certaindeaf]

This cartridge has way too much crimp. It'd be fine for a revolver. Just "iron out" the bell.

 

[918v]

G:

Don't crimp, just remove the bell. Pound it in until you feel the case mouth bottom out against the chamber shoulder. Then knock it out from the muzzle end.

You'll see a measurable ledge, prolly .358/.359".

 

[ROGER4314]

I've been reloading and casting for many years but always learn new things in this exciting field. I bought the Lee Hardness test kit and it showed me something new. I always equated velocity and leading from cast bullets. The Lee kit looks at it differently.

The Lee kit compares the ball impression diameter with Brinnell hardness and maximum allowable pressure in PSI for that bullet material. The velocity will still increase as pressure increases but the Lee kit looks at it from a different perspective.

Using that information gets easier as the Lee and Lyman reloading manuals give pressure in PSI or CUP for most of their loads so you know what that particular lead alloy will stand without failure/leading. That's pretty slick!

Flash

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Greyling22 -- the answer to that is, "Ask the gun." Try different seating depths until you find the one that shoots best and is reliable in your gun.

As a general rule, though, most guns shoot better with the bullet seated as near the lede as possible.

 

[floydster]

I have three 9mm handguns.
My alloy formula for all three, two CZ's and an EMP.
50/50 WW and pure lead with a 12" strip of 40/60 solder, water dropped.
All my 9mm bullets are sized to .357, lubed with LLA, two heavy coats with very little leading, what little there is, one swipe with a bore brush and Chore Boy and it's gone, leaving a nice shiney bore, accuracy never falls off due to any leading.