Learning about Double Rifles

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First the Blaser S2,

It is accurate it's reliable and it's safe with it's decoking system. That's the good news. The bad news is that it is very nontraditional so most die hard double rifle guys hate them. The decocking safety system takes some practice as it's a bit stiff and awkward to use which kills the S2 for me. The main advantage of a double is quick and smooth operation to the shoulder the safety should slide off with a subconscious flick of the thumb. The S2 takes some work to get the decoker set and cocked to much IMHO. The other big minus in my book is that the gun is only available with extractors as the decocker disallows the installation of ejectors.

Overall the S2 is a very good rifle that should not be discounted. I like a more traditional rifle just like I only shoot 98 style Mauser bolt guns I am picky about the configuration of my doubles as well. I have trained extensively with a non automatic safety and ejectors and that is what I'll stick with because I am very good with that configuration. That doesn't mean that you need the same, a guy could get very fast and very good with an S2 or Krieghoff style rifle with a bit of training time. In fact when I shot the world championship stopping rifle competition several years ago I came in third and both the guys who beat me were shooting Krieghoff's with decokers on them.If you looked at the stats however my times were 20 to 30% faster than theirs but they had better overall scores once you added in group size. They shot slower and more accurately I shot faster and scored all kill zone shots but not as tight of groups as the team shooting kreighoff did. In real life on DG game in a charge I'll take a speedy 4 shot 6" group in the goods over a slow 2" group any day but that's not how the competition was scored.

Now on to the regulation issue. I have spoken to Butch Searcy and other double gun builders about the laser issue and regulation. Here is the short answer he does use a laser to get the barrels parallel and offset initially. But here's the rub you can line up the barrels on a 10 rifles exactly the same. And no two of them will put the bullets into the same place. Due to harmonics, barrel pressure points, rib weld ETC every single double rifle must be hand regulated and every single double rifle has it's barrels pointed at slightly different angles to allow them to regulate to the proper point of impact barrel to barrel at 50 yards. And then most will only do that with a particular load and bullet combo. Doubles can be finicky little things. Blaser seems to have found a solution to that issue.

My current .470 will place 4 rounds two rights and two lefts into under 1.75" dead center and 1" high at 50 yards it will put them all into under 3" at 100 yards and is still not crossing at 200 yards. That is what I consider perfect regulation. There are very few doubles that will do that. Butch seems to have it perfectly figured out.

And my rifle will ONLY do that with 106 grs of IMR 4831 behind 500 gr Woodleigh bullets. It shoots Barnes, HC lead and other well but about twice as wide as the w
Woodleighs.

So if somebody is telling you that they simply laser up the barrels and call it good they are not regulating the barrels they are simply lining up the barrels. To regulate properly takes multiple trips to the range to pull the ribs and reset your wedges then reweld your ribs and shoot then repeat until you get it perfect. It takes time it takes money and it takes knowledge to properly regulate a double.
 
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The REAL problem with the Blaser S2 is, every time you open the action, it "decocks"! This means, if you fire one bbl. then open the action, it decocks and you have to recock it again. As far as i'm concerned, it's a design flaw. I don't mind having to cock it the first time, but it SHOULD stay cocked until "I" decock it!

If i fire one bbl at a big bear, and the bear bolts into the bush, i'm going to reload that bbl. before going into the bush. If i open the action to reload and the bear bolts out, i don't want to have to close the gun AND cock it again! I want to close the gun and beable to fire it right then!

As for bbl regulation. ALL "properly regulated" doubles shoot the bullets from both bbls side by side (the distance the bbls are apart) right out beyond 200 yards. If it doesn't, then it isn't properly regulated!! My Chapuis will do it, and from what i read on line, other guys with Chapuis doubles also will...

Regulateing with a laser is a "start", but it WILL NOT give proper regulation for the reasons H&H posted above.

DM
 
I'm with you H&H, I prefer a more traditional rifle (I really like my commercial mausers, particularly the Whitworth Express .375H&H!). FWIW, Chapuis just got added to the list (near the bottom)...just wish they made one chambered for .500NE.

As far as regulation, I fully realize that a laser bore sight won't precisely get the job done, but it'll get you in the neighborhood, which should significantly reduce the time consuming task. Using an adjustable wedge rather than solder should further reduce the cost.

:)
 
Sabatti is a prime example of what happens when you try to short cut the regulation process. They most certainly level and parallel the barrels. Then they have to auger the crowns to get them to shoot anywhere near properly.
 
Maverick & H&Hhunter,

First off, I've learned a ton so far and I know that I'm going to learn a ton more about dangerous game hunting. I know I asked before about having a stopping cartridge and what it would need to be, but I never thought to ask what a good CXP3 to CXP4 cartridge would be that could also stop. I've done some reading and research and it seems to me that while a 375 H&H is good, its not seen as a stopping cartridge. However; what I've been reading, mostly here & on Wikipedia and Chuckhawks, is that the 458 Win Mag is more in tune with what I've had in mind for a big bore gun for NA or Africa.

From what I've read, its seems the 458 can be loaded down to 45-70 levels for NA big game or well up for stopping big African game. It also seems to have a wider range of bullets avaliable for reloading choices over the 375 H&H. Recoil would be an issue for me , but I'm not afraid to wear a recoil pad for the big loads.

Thoughts & input are welcome.
 
OH,

There is a very fine selection of bullets for the .375 make no mistake about that. In fact I would venture to say about twice as many choices as a .458. The .375H&H is not a "stopping" rifle BUT I've killed a ton of big game with a .375 H&H and with the right bullets there is nothing I wouldn't hunt with one and there is nowhere I wouldn't feel very comfortable carrying one for self protection if it was all I had.

The .375H&H is a very versatile round and it penetrates and hits way better than many would have you believe. The .458 is a far more specialized round and it's at the bottom of what I consider stopping rounds. Unless I was hunting elephant a lot or hunting in thick jesse bush where there are a lot of elephants about and I had to have one DG rifle given the choice between a .458 Win and a .375H&H I'd take the .375.

If I was in the market for another .458 I'd buy a Lott or a Rigby with preference to the Lott.
 
Glad to be of some service, Ole Humpback.

The .375H&H is a very versatile round and it penetrates and hits way better than many would have you believe. The .458 is a far more specialized round and it's at the bottom of what I consider stopping rounds. Unless I was hunting elephant a lot or hunting in thick jesse bush where there are a lot of elephants about and I had to have one DG rifle given the choice between a .458 Win and a .375H&H I'd take the .375.

If I was in the market for another .458 I'd buy a Lott or a Rigby with preference to the Lott.
I am no expert on the issue (whereas the feller I quoted is), and am biased towards the .375H&H (so much so that I favor this particular cartridge, in a hunting capacity, above all others; H&H probably is too, but for good reason ;)), but I believe that the .375H&H is the better all-around cartridge, despite throwing a bit smaller, and lighter hunk-o-lead than the .458WM. My justification is the slow velocity that hampers the Winnie...which isn't to say that it is incapable...just limited in utility (unless you plan to hunt almost exclusively at relatively close range, and don't mind a fairly heavy/large rifle). The .375H&H, despite the slightly lesser momentum/energy/TKO is typically loaded at a much higher velocity which affords very good penetration with heavy for caliber solid bullets (I prefer the 350gr. Woodleigh), very good expansion with moderate-heavy soft points (300gr. Swift A-Frame is my preference), and still allows you to use it for medium game with a lighter constructed bullet (I load the 225gr. Interlock for GP & 260gr. Accubond for "long range"), all this while maintaining a trajectory that compares favorably to a .30-06Spd. with a similar projectile.

:)
 
Its info & experience like this that I find very useful. H&H, you're very correct as any bullet maker I can think of makes a round for the 375 and there are bullets from 225gr Interlocks at Hornady all the way up to 350gr banded solids from Barnes and everything in between. Definitely couldn't go wrong with it in that aspect.

Maverick, I'd been trying to get an idea of trajectory comparisons for smaller rifles and that info on it being similar to the 30-06 in the lighter bullets is very helpful. That gives me a good idea of how similar it would be to my 257 Roberts for range on game like elk or large deer.

If Chuckhawks Rifle recoil table is near correct (http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm) I can't see myself hating to shoot a 375 H&H as the new Mod 70's have a built in recoil pad. I've shot a 405 Win, one of my college professors had made a handload for it with I believe a 400gr cast bullet @ 2000fps, and other than the steel buttplate wiping out my shoulder the recoil didn't "feel" that bad. I had the same issue on a 30-30 with a solid steel buttplate, the gun didn't kick hard, but steel on shoulder recoil did. A $5 slip on pad from Wal-Mart cured that. My 12ga shooting slugs generates more recoil than the 375, but it also is a semi auto with a recoil pad, so I think I'm used to that level of recoil.

I don't think I'll be hunting elephant maybe more than once in my life. Sounds like I'll stick with the 375 H&H as my catch all large game rifle. Thanks for the info and I look forward to learning more,
 
Maverick, I'd been trying to get an idea of trajectory comparisons for smaller rifles and that info on it being similar to the 30-06 in the lighter bullets is very helpful. That gives me a good idea of how similar it would be to my 257 Roberts for range on game like elk or large deer.
It isn't just the lighter bullets...it is most any bullet of similar shape and weight/caliber. For instance the 300gr. RN in a .375H&H would mimic the 220gr. RN in a .30-06Spd., the 260gr. BT from the .375 being similar to a 165/150 BT in the .30-06, & a 225gr. SP .375 having the trajectory of a 130gr. SP from the '06. It will not, however, mimic the standard load .30-06Spd. (a 150gr. SP) with the standard .375H&H load (typically a 300gr. round nose solid)...but the old '06 isn't the best for taking cape buff either. ;)
 
A 270 gr bullet of similar BC started at 2700 to 2800 FPS will identically match a 180 gr .308 bullet started at the same velocity. IE standard .30-06 180 gr loads match standard .375H&H loads for trajectory.

Zeroed at 200 yards -7" @300yds, -23" @ 400yds ETC. Of course the .375H&H is giving about twice the horse power of the 06..
 
A 270 gr bullet of similar BC started at 2700 to 2800 FPS will identically match a 180 gr .308 bullet started at the same velocity. IE standard .30-06 180 gr loads match standard .375H&H loads for trajectory.

So as long as BC & muzzle velocity are the same, the trajectories will be the same? Thats quite handy to know. That'd make it easier to hunt with multiple rifle of different calibers. Of course recoil & windage would change in relation to how big the round is.

*EDIT*

A large bullet with a better BC would replicate the trajectory of a small bullet with a worse BC assuming muzzle velocity is the same. I'm already familiar with 120gr Partitions out of my 257 and a 260gr Accubond has the exact same trajectory due to a better BC and same muzzle velocity out of the 375.

http://www.federalpremium.com/products/details/rifle.aspx?id=330

http://www.federalpremium.com/products/details/rifle.aspx?id=228
 
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Of course recoil & windage would change in relation to how big the round is.
For what its worth I don't find recoil to be bad at all (though I don't fire it from the prone or bench often either), not really much worse than the average '06 (which isn't to say that there isn't a difference, a well fitting rifle with a good recoil pad and moderate heft helps). Windage also matches the .30-06Spd. pretty closely (with similar rounds)...but that big ole .375cal. slug certainly doesn't like to be pushed around. ;)
 
i picked this double barrel up,but i have not found out what calibure it is yet, the bore slugs out at .454 and the chamber is 2.5 inches long,case has a rim.it was made in ausrtia by franz neuber. the rifle is tight and has ex dark wood with engraving and ex plus bores condition eastbank.
 

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Rim or belt (I know you said rim, just wanted to confirm)?...Straight/tapered or bottlenecked?...sounds like it could be a .45-90WCF (if rimmed/tapered and chamber bored a mite bit long), .458WM (if belted/tapered), or .460Short A-Square (if belted/bottlenecked)...or some crazy rimmed version of the .458WM.

:)
 
rimmed and tapered,45-90 win does not fit. i think it maybe a .450 2-1/2 inch. i am going to take it to a big show and try to find out some thing. maybe a .450x3 inch trimmed to 2-1/2 may work. it,s a super rifle. eastbank.
 
eastbank, it looks like an interesting, and good looking rifle, nonetheless. Worse case scenario you can always have it reamed to a .450NE-3.25in. or the like...depending upon what you want to use it for (or just leave it be and get a custom die set made for NA game). Mind if I ask how much that beaut set you back?

:)
 
.458WM (if belted/tapered), or .460Short A-Square (if belted/bottlenecked)...or some crazy rimmed version of the .458WM.

I can bloody well guarantee you that rifle IS NOT chambered in a high pressure rimless case such as a .458 WM or a .460 A-Square short!!

It is very likely a .450 BPE and should NOT be fired with smokeless ammo of any kind. These old exposed hammer guns generally are not proofed for smokeless powder. And may I say sir what a gorgeous old piece of history you've got there.

Are you able to read the proof marks on the water table? And who made the rifle?

Without a chamber casting you are in the blind. Go to a decent gun smith and get a chamber casting. The .450 BPE (Black Powder Express) was generally a 3" or a 3 & 1/4" round but the Britt's made multiple proprietary rounds of various length. If the caliber isn't marked you must have a chamber casting made.
 
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It took me some profiling, but I have figured out that the High Road's DM in this thread in the Upper Midwest, is not Dan MacCarthy of Utah, that also writes about double rifles:

Wouldn't it had been easier, to just ask me? lol

DM
 
The proof marks will answer most of the questions. Nitro proof, caliber, possibly date and proof load, re-proof? where?. Hammer guns were still featured prominately in some of my 20's -30's German and Austrian gun company catalogs.
Even if it is marked with the caliber a chamber casting and bore slugging is in order to verify and to determine proper bullet diameter. There are a multitude of 11.5mm rimmed cartridges that this may be, some proprietary to the maker. 450 BPE is certainly a good guess. The metric designation would be 11.5x82.5R this was a very common round in these rifles from that period. Most I have seen had rifling designed for paper patched cast bullets. I don't recall seeing many with proof for jacketed bullets (marked ;Kup Mtl Ges or SthlMantlGes) Most have had BL Ges, Blei Geschoss= lead bullet. Even if they had Nitro proof. It is still a potent round and easy to load for. About 15 years ago I took in on trade a mystery Ferlach made double that turned out to be chambered for .405 Win. Expect most anything. Nice looking rifle.
Post some clear pics of the proof marks.
 
I can bloody well guarantee you that rifle IS NOT chambered in a high pressure rimless case such as a .458 WM or a .460 A-Square short!!
Never underestimate an overzealous feller with a reamer. ;) You're probably right (being an old double)...but I can't think of much else that fits the bill as far as case OAL and diameter. Perhaps a .450NE 3-1/4in. shortened to about 2.5in.?...ever hear of such a thing?

I believe it would be best to check the "depth" of the rim...the NE cartridges typically have a fairly small/thin rim by American standards.

:)
 
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