Lee 6000 press

[GW Staar]

I went with buying a 3d Printer instead of a Mr. Bullet Feeder. So what's the result? I can print bullet and case collators, buy the motors and tubing for them, print the bullet feeder dies for them that work just as well as the commercial, for about $70 a piece. So now I have a printer, and 5 bullet and case feeders......never would have happened if I was stuck with commercial prices.

The one below has a special bullet plate for extra long rifle bullets....but I printed plates for pistol, regular rifle and the long ones.



In the video some bullets needed the backup ramp.....because I didn't have enough tilt in the collator body......but that's not needed with more tilt.

The next video is a short test of pistol cases running very fast before my speed control came in.



But what about bullet feed dies? How about these for $6. worth of plastic, and 2 springs and ball bearings from Amazon? And they work every time.

Below is the first trial of the first caliber I printed.....357. Tested on a single stage to see if "plastic" would REALLY work!



Printed more.....

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Do you have any of the plastic bullet feed dies in normal rotation where you load a thousand at a time? I curious as to how they stand up to the rigors of the bullets dropping under load of a full tube. That's a lot of slamming when the whole column drops every time.
Or are you using a prox to limit the weight in the column?

 

[GW Staar]

Before I bought the 3d printer, I did experience long tubes and heavy weight, using 36" tubes in a Lee 4-way.....using Hornady steel dies. They worked, but not 100%. It was the weight problem. But with 3D printed collators feeding to shorter tubes into the 3d printed dies......AND yes, using proximity switches, no more problems.

BUT, no.....I don't load 1000's at a time anymore....it's me....I don't last as long. One of you younger guys will have to test that. But was worried about the plastic's longevity too. But with a collator I just haven't seen ANY wear yet......when it happens, if it happens it'll be simple to print another....the print files are on thumb drives that plug into my Creality printer. Picture, below, of my .223 "tubes" that works for me. (springs bought at ACE Hardware)....with clear tube in the middle for to see the stack.) But that's an RCBS tube rifle bullet feed die that also uses ball bearings....they are good but expensive. Have not printed rifle dies just because I already have good ones. Anyway the picture below is the longest down tube I've done, and only doable with small light bullets like .223s.




Pistol tubes are shorter spring tubes maybe 16" max from prox. switch on top to the die on the press.

 

[WeekendReloader]

I went with buying a 3d Printer instead of a Mr. Bullet Feeder. So what's the result? I can print bullet and case collators, buy the motors and tubing for them, print the bullet feeder dies for them that work just as well as the commercial, for about $70 a piece. So now I have a printer, and 5 bullet and case feeders......never would have happened if I was stuck with commercial prices.

The one below has a special bullet plate for extra long rifle bullets....but I printed plates for pistol, regular rifle and the long ones.



In the video some bullets needed the backup ramp.....because I didn't have enough tilt in the collator body......but that's not needed with more tilt.

The next video is a short test of pistol cases running very fast before my speed control came in.



But what about bullet feed dies? How about these for $6. worth of plastic, and 2 springs and ball bearings from Amazon? And they work every time.

Below is the first trial of the first caliber I printed.....357. Tested on a single stage to see if "plastic" would REALLY work!



Printed more.....
View attachment 1108284

Can you post a link to those bullet feeders?

 

[GW Staar]

Can you post a link to those bullet feeders?

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator/page110

That thread is 154 pages long.....it's always been a labor of love and constant improvements. But the link above is only 44 pages ....... back! And maybe represents where we started really stabilizing everything. So you can go forward or back if you want to see all of it, but it's not necessary. The One thing that's important is TylerR. He started the post AmmoMike renditions....3 different sizes and many many plates and feed dies.....and Lee APP improvements are there too.

The secret to navigating all of it, is to go to any TylerR post, and click on the "Downloads" at the bottom of that post. There you will find ALL TylerR's print files and the all important "Manual". Good luck on the journey.....it definitly is one. But IMO VERY worth the effort!

 

[WeekendReloader]

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator/page110

That thread is 154 pages long.....it's always been a labor of love and constant improvements. But the link above is only 44 pages ....... back! And maybe represents where we started really stabilizing everything. So you can go forward or back if you want to see all of it, but it's not necessary. The One thing that's important is TylerR. He started the post AmmoMike renditions....3 different sizes and many many plates and feed dies.....and Lee APP improvements are there too.

The secret to navigating all of it, is to go to any TylerR post, and click on the "Downloads" at the bottom of that post. There you will find ALL TylerR's print files and the all important "Manuel". Good luck on the journey.....it definitly is one. But IMO VERY worth the effort!

Thanks for the link!
Are the feeding dies in that thread also? Or do you have a link to the files so I can print the dies?

Never mind... The die files are included with the rest of the files.
Thanks again!

 

[GW Staar]

You are welcome......clicking the green "code" allows you the option of downloading ALL the files at once in a zip file.....or you can pick and choose. I choose to pick and choose on my own hard drive on my own time.....click "code".

 

[Gillie Dog]

The eagle has landed...............................

Titan has them "in stock"................

Midway not yet.............

Christmas came early this year.................

GD

 

[Gillie Dog]

Titan has them "in stock"................

Well

Out of stock now, you guys must purchased a bunch of them......................

GD

 

[Tilos]

Well

Out of stock now, you guys must purchased a bunch of them......................

GD

Nope
Not if you use the link in the email Titan sent out.
jmo,
.

 

[Gillie Dog]

Nope
Not if use the link in the email Titan sent out.
jmo,
.

Ah, so they set aside for those who had it on watch/wish?

How about that.

My link says out of stock, since I ordered it possibly?????????

No matter now anyway.......

Thanks

GD

 

[boredkender]

Been a hot minute since I have chimed in here, but I wanted to follow up that I finally got around to asking Lee CS about changing primer sizes. Turns out I was shooting myself in the foot by doing it as inefficiently as possible by removing the slider and scraping them all to the rear. Below is their response when I had asked them if the rough was removable or if there was a better way since it seemed pretty well secured in place:
"Yes, the trough is removable, it is a tight fit. What seems to work best for me is squeezing the trough together on the sides while pulling up rocking the trough side to side. The trough is durable, you should not worry about breaking it. "

 

[LiveLife]

changing primer sizes ... I was shooting myself in the foot by doing it as inefficiently as possible by removing the slider and scraping them all to the rear.

Yes, trying to lift the slider up and over the hump at the end of the channel/trough is the hard way.

Here's an easier way - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...operational-consistency.911743/#post-12443415

Small and Large primer guide replacement ... plastic slider doesn't need to be removed to change out small/large primer guide. There is a hole in the bottom of primer slide channel/trough by left side of primer chute where a small Allen wrench can be used to push primer guide up.
​

Drop in the replacement small/large primer guide and you are good to go!

 

[LiveLife]

Below is their response when I had asked them if the rough was removable or if there was a better way since it seemed pretty well secured in place:\

"Yes, the trough is removable, it is a tight fit. What seems to work best for me is squeezing the trough together on the sides while pulling up rocking the trough side to side. The trough is durable, you should not worry about breaking it. "​

Ummm, I think there was some miscommunication.

They are talking about removing the plastic primer chute/trough that attaches to the primer tray, not the metal primer slide channel/trough that's part of the shellplate carrier the slider with guide slides back and forth in.

This is the end of plastic primer chute/trough that attaches to the primer tray and why Lee CS suggested you squeeze the two parts together. Since the two tabs at the end gets scraped by cut slots in the metal, I would not ever remove it unless I was replacing the unit -
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...operational-consistency.911743/#post-12443441

Top and underside of primer slider channel/trough where two plastic tabs expand to secure the primer chute/trough (It's a tight firm fit)

 

[boredkender]

Ummm, I think there was some miscommunication.

They are talking about removing the plastic primer chute/trough that attaches to the primer tray, not the metal primer slide channel/trough that's part of the shellplate carrier the slider with guide slides back and forth in.

This is the end of plastic primer chute/trough that attaches to the primer tray and why Lee CS suggested you squeeze the two parts together. Since the two tabs at the end gets scraped by cut slots in the metal, I would not ever remove it unless I was replacing the unit -
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...operational-consistency.911743/#post-12443441

Top and underside of primer slider channel/trough where two plastic tabs expand to secure the primer chute/trough (It's a tight firm fit)

Yeah no, the chute totally the part i meant. When I tried to take it off it seemed like it was gonna snap so I didnt force it.

 

[f.g]

Bonjour folks

I have read here and on other forums some incidents coming from a failure of priming ...( primers not captured by the priming )

Can you tell me what you think of the Pro6000's boot system and this possible malfunction?
Has it already happened to you?
- if yes: how many times?
- If not: How many cartridges have been reloaded without problems?

and second question...
What is now your opinion on this press ???

I thank you in advance for your answers
Sincerely

f.g

 

[LiveLife]

I have read here and on other forums some incidents coming from a failure of priming ...( primers not captured by the priming ) ... Can you tell me what you think of the Pro6000's boot system and this possible malfunction?

New priming system and operation explained in detail here - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ing-for-oal-consistency.911743/#post-12443415

What is now your opinion on this press ???

To me, the new Six Pack Pro/Pro 6000 six station progressive press was designed to address issues to resolution users of Lee presses have voiced in the past, particularly priming system and smoothness of operation.

After having used the press and fully disassembling the press then reassembling, here are my thoughts:

• Caliber conversion is easy and fast (Using onboard tool and caddy) with breech lock bushing, shellplate change and no small/large priming rod change (Uses same priming rod), only S/L primer guide that is easily removed by pushing it up through a hole in the primer slider channel

• New priming system works with all domestic and even slightly larger diameter foreign/metric primers and readily seats them to slightly below flush (.002"-.003") with light push on ram lever and .004"-.005" below flush with firm push, even for metric primers

• Double stack primer feed chute with ribbed slider ensures capture of primer by guide with each right-left-right slider cycle (Well illustrated by zoomed in pictures in above link). There's even a spot on the onboard tool caddy/bin holder for a small Allen wrench

• Like ABLP/Pro 4000, shellplate index timing is auto-correcting and ensured by index pin through shellplate holes

• Through ram capture of spent primers ensures closed system for minimizing exposure to lead dust from spent primers (Primary source of lead dust)

• Large ram and linkage from .50 caliber press allow even large magnum rifle cases

• Press is tight yet operates smoothly.

• Ram is mounted below station #1 where resizing of brass takes place and this design reduces inherent shellplate tilt/deflection during sizing that can affect case mouth flare/crimp/finished OAL. These are measurements from press reloading in progressive "real world" mode with full shellplate - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-4#post-12453368

• Blazer unsorted - OAL of 1.128"-1.133" (.005" variance)

• G.F.L. unsorted - OAL of 1.129"-1.133" (.004" variance)

• .FC. unsorted - OAL of 1.128"-1.131" (.003" variance)

• FC unsorted - OAL of 1.130"-1.132" (.002" variance)

• WIN unsorted - OAL of 1.131"-1.133" (.002" variance)

• R-P unsorted - OAL of 1.133"-1.134" (.001" variance)

• R-P "." unsorted - OAL of 1.134"-1.135" (.001" variance)

 

[f.g]

New priming system and operation explained in detail here - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ing-for-oal-consistency.911743/#post-12443415

Thanks LiveLife, I read this article carefully!!! I found it very well explained and the photos illustrated well the words.

Would you give me the authorization to use your articles translated in French as well as your photos so that I can make a thread dedicated to the LEE Pro 6000 on a French forum...

Whatever your answer (positive/negative) I thank you for the work and the sharing that you do here.

Sincerely
f.g

 

[trixter]

Woo Hoo!! I just got conformation my new Six Pack Pro is on it's way.

 

[LiveLife]

Would you give me the authorization to use your articles translated in French as well as your photos so that I can make a thread dedicated to the LEE Pro 6000 on a French forum

Absolutely!

I believe in "Open Source", public domain, free sharing/exchange of information to expand the knowledge base and "Pay It Forward" for enrichment of human kind.

Anything I post on THR, you are free to share and link back to THR.

 

[f.g]

Thank you very much LiveLife

 

[Gillie Dog]

I have read here and on other forums some incidents coming from a failure of priming ...( primers not captured by the priming )

Can you tell me what you think of the Pro6000's boot system and this possible malfunction?
Has it already happened to you?
- if yes: how many times?
- If not: How many cartridges have been reloaded without problems?

So I have done only about 600 cases primed in small and large size in six calibers.

I have had zero (0) failures to feed or prime.
I always fill the primer tray as soon as it is empty.

That said I did modify the primer spring by making the loop at the slider end narrower so it did not hit the tabs on the slider trough when starting movement back. It would catch on the tab and make a clicking sound, I did not like that and after modification operation was smooth, no catching and no sound.

Had to clean up case head entrance to shell plate 11L/44 mag because of case head not entering smoothly and hanging up. Had to clean up the case slider as a lip on front of it would drag 44 mag cases back a tiny bit every once in a while.

The 30 Carbine collet crimp die was not designed to clear case ejector so resulted in smashing the case ejector before I caught it. Lee is sending a new improved collet crimp die and replacement case ejector.

All this was found during caliber(s) setup/testing and since then have not had one hiccup or problem.
9mm, 38 Spl, 40 S&W and 45 ACP were all smooth setup and testing. Only small amount of each loaded so far, need to empty a bunch and do some long runs.

That is about all I know so far. Have maybe 10 minutes in clean up work and a lot of setup and testing of each caliber. As far as I am concerned the 6000 is good to go and we will see how it handles many years of loading going forward. I will probably miss the Load Masters after decades of fine, reliable service (highly modified machines they were).

GD

 

[LiveLife]

I did modify the primer spring by making the loop at the slider end narrower so it did not hit the tabs on the slider trough when starting movement back. It would catch on the tab and make a clicking sound, I did not like that and after modification operation was smooth, no catching and no sound.

Good tip.

On mine, spring end would very lightly brush the tabs to not make clicking noise (why I didn't notice) but watching it close, it did spool spring tension so slider movement was not smooth.

I also narrowed the spring end with pliers and now spring end doesn't make any contact and slider moves smoothly.

 

[Gillie Dog]

Good tip.

On mine, spring end would very lightly brush the tabs to not make clicking noise (why I didn't notice) but watching it close, it did spool spring tension so slider movement was not smooth.

I also narrowed the spring end with pliers and now spring end doesn't make any contact and slider moves smoothly.

Yes, that is the exact spot.

I narrowed it up, by clamping in aluminum jaws of a vice, a bit more than you, and had to clip the open end off a tad so installation on slider was feasible.
And yes, slider movement is now smooth in comparison the the click/jerk. I had also coated the slider trough and primer trough with graphite on a little artists brush (hold over from past experience). If I get real gung-ho I will mask and coat the slider trough with the spray graphite which is supposed to adhere to the aluminum. Open up the primer trough and do the same, it does adhere to the plastic from past experience. But..... all that might not (should not?) be needed with new primer system we have here.

Now my biggest problem is emptying cases to reload, supposed to have light rain here for a couple days. I am anxious to do a several hundred case run.

GD

 

[Gillie Dog]

Had to clean up the case slider as a lip on front of it would drag 44 mag cases back a tiny bit every once in a while.

So this is a known issue for large diameter cases at Lee and they are having the "tool"/die modified for the case slider with availability "possibly by mid-December". There might be other feeding issues not known, to me at least, this fixes also.

My modified slider is working fine for now. The sliders on the old, pre-universal, case feeders had a different more "U" shape of the front which did not pull cases back. However this issue never manifested itself on the Load Masters, with universal case feeders, possibly because of the more ridgid method of slider movement and the slider was not pushed from one side by the spring and can "rotate" on the rail. Do not know??????

GD