Lee Pro 1000

[MeanBean]

If you have the need to use the FCD as a "finishing" die or want to seat and crimp in separate operations using the 3 station Pro 1000, you can separately resize/prime the brass and use Station #1 for powder charging, Station #2 for bullet seating, Station #3 for crimping.

I do this for my 10mm loads. Resize/prime on a single stage and powder/seat/crimp on the pro 1000. Works great!

 

[1KPerDay]

Honestly, I believe this is the only place I can come and talk about the Pro1000 w/o getting completely burnt to the ground.
I too now use the Auto Breech Lock Pro (which I now see Lee cataloging it as the Pro4000 again when purchased as the full kit) because I came upon a load that I needed to use the Carbide FCD. But I still find the Pro1000 faster. When they redesigned the Pro1000 with the new base I wish they would have added a fourth position but that would have defeated the new press.

Is it faster because of the priming system? I prime on the LCT and then load on the Pro1000 because I could never solve the priming issues despite following all of LiveLife’s excellent tutorials. It takes longer but there’s much less profanity flying around.

I’m a fan of the Lee safety prime system.

 

[funnelcake]

I only use the FCD when loading carry ammo & use an old original Lee single-stage for that as a separate operation.

TBH I’d be happier if the LCT had a 3-hole turret option as I shudder to think how many thousands of extra arm cranks I’ve used up traveling past that empty hole.

If I can double output vs. the LCT I’ll be happy as a clam.

 

[1KPerDay]

IF you can get yours to prime reliably it’s much faster than the LCT and you might find you don’t want to use the LCT unless necessary. A true progressive feels like magic compared to 4-pulls-per-round.

I loaded about 40K rounds on my LCT before the PRO1K and it’s a fantastic machine. Easy, no hassle, fast as heck to change primer sizes or calibers, or refill components. But a progressive will spoil you if you can get it running in the groove.

I do smaller batches on the LCT and “bulk” on the Pro1K now. Priming remains the only niggle.

 

[kmw1954]

TBH I’d be happier if the LCT had a 3-hole turret option as I shudder to think how many thousands of extra arm cranks I’ve used up traveling past that empty hole.

This is my second go around at reloading, first time was done with a Bonanza single stage press. After starting again I knew I didn't want to load hundreds of pistol rounds on a simple single stage again and so I looked at all the Turret presses and thought that would be the answer. Until I stumbled onto a used complete Pro1000 for much less than I could find a turret and dies. So I bought it and have been using it since. Dies come in 3 die sets and the press utilizes 3 dies in the turret. After about a year I was doing a lot of load development and it was somewhat of a struggle on the Pro1000 so I then found a new in box Lee Value 3 hole press, I wanted it and paid a premium for it. I have no regrets one bit. Works great for load development or when I want to do a quick 50 or so.

 

[1KPerDay]

TBH I’d be happier if the LCT had a 3-hole turret option as I shudder to think how many thousands of extra arm cranks I’ve used up traveling past that empty hole.

this is what I do... short-stroke it past the empty hole. I don’t mind it

 

[Prowler53]

I got tired of messing with the primer feed on the pro 1000. I know there are tips and mods people have used and are happy with it. I decided to hand prime and never messed with it since. One of these days I'll see if I can get it running correctly.

 

[funnelcake]

The ABL or Pro 4000 looks like a good compromise. The Safety Prime is pretty fast & Ive had zero issues using it on the LCT.

My older brother has a couple 1050’s and a 650. One of the former exclusively cranks-out .308 for FA demo rifles - I’ll admit the volume is impressive. Even those needed a lot of setup & benefitted from aftermarket mods though.

 

[kmw1954]

I got tired of messing with the primer feed on the pro 1000. I know there are tips and mods people have used and are happy with it. I decided to hand prime and never messed with it since. One of these days I'll see if I can get it running correctly.

Or just continue with the way you are doing it! It's working and you are happy right?

 

[rfwobbly]

Email sent.

 

[funnelcake]

Thanks RF. I ordered the case feed tubes, 9mm+ bullet feeder, #19 shell plate, and spare hex ratchets.

Got a start building the stand but out of time for today. I guess I found out why my new welding helmet was on clearance - no battery or battery cover. The old one still works but the duck-taped headband is less than ideal.

 

[Tilos]

Yah, thanks - I read the instructions; I just don't want to miss ordering anything that's required. I circled the rod & bottom of turret in the last pic. That's where I'm wondering if anything (like the plastic piece on the LCT) is missing.
View attachment 886122

You can see the dimple the hex rod end made in that pocket.
Nothing goes in that pocket, except the hex rod end.
There is a hex nylon bushing( a wear item) inside the index gear/carrier.
Edit:... and everything @LiveLife has posted

 

[funnelcake]

You can see the dimple the hex rod end made in that pocket.
Nothing goes in that pocket, except the hex rod end.
There is a hex nylon bushing( a wear item) inside the index gear/carrier.

Roger that, thanks - been doing some reading in addition to parts grabbing.

 

[funnelcake]

Strapped on time the last week but I did manage to get a suitable stand made out of stuff I had left-over from the hot rod/other projects.

Some pieces of 1/8" plate & square tube - started marking for sizing:


First part of cutting, welding, and grinding:


Top & nuts welded, press & bench mounting holes drilled:


Through-hole for primer drop (my Pro1K is the 'tweener that would still fill the press base):


Hole for access to front (rear?) press mount nut:


Matching through-hole in bench & threaded hole for finished round bin:


Painted-up & test fitting primer drop setup:


Lower view of assembly (using bar-clamp assemblies for quick'ish removal):


Test mounting of press:


Finished round bin view:


All the parts are in to convert to 9mm so now it's time to get the press working! Going all in with case/bullet feeder, etc. I've added several mods picked-up from folks online. We'll see - more updates as I have time!!

 

[1KPerDay]

Pretty cool!

 

[LiveLife]

Looking good.

And if you could get the bullet feeder to work reliably, you will have the admiration of many THR members.

Don't forget to make a cover for the top of primer attachment chute to prevent powder granules from falling in (Use clear plastic so you can watch the column of primers).

Here are some initial operation tips to get you going reliably from the start:

• Once the press is cleaned and lubed (including the center hex rod with a drop of oil), adjust the shell plate index timing so it clicks into station before carrier drops down to the bottom - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/#post-9611782

• Ram lever operation should smoothly rotate the shell plate. If during reloading session, shell plate indexing becomes less smooth, apply another drop of oil on the hex rod and operate the ram lever until operation is smooth - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/#post-9611774

• Shell plate carrier should be rotated/tightened with primer attachment pin in one of press column channels without left side of shell plate carrier touching the left press column. It's the motion of pin riding along the channels is what shakes the primer tray and keep attachment chute full of primers. (If pin does not agitate the primer tray enough to keep moving the primers, consider wrapping the column with small zip ties to agitate the primer tray more vigorously)

• Before running a case through, make sure the case sensor spring is installed/working properly to drop the priming rod by actuating the case sensor.

• Initially run one case at a time to become familiar with press operation and die settings.

• NOTE: As case approaches Station #2, watch the column of primers and MAKE SURE column drops down to feed a primer into station. If you do not see the column drop down, manually push down on the column to feed a primer or you will charge the case with powder without a primer seated and powder will pour out the bottom of the case spilling all over the place (Which will require full disassembly of shell plate carrier and cleaning)

• After adjusting dies initially, recheck when operating with cases in all stations

 

[bearleft]

A quick spray of One Shot case lube, on straight wall pistol cases, reduces operating effort immensely!
I remind myself, smooth, all the way up all the way down, it's not a race.

 

[funnelcake]

Thanks for the tips LL!

...and agreed, smooth & steady. Lee stuff has its own cadence & if you “fight” it you’ll be unhappy & unproductive. My only goal is exceeding Classic Turret output for 9 & 45 with same quality.

 

[LiveLife]

You are very welcome.

One tip I forgot to mention is making a cover for the slot in the ram to direct 99.9% of spent primers into the hole in the base (or spent primers will bounce/scatter all over the bench) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/#post-9611788

Make the cover out of aluminum soda can cut approximately 1.5" x 0.75" and slightly round corners of one end then bend the piece lengthwise on a pen (I found Mountain Dew throwback soda can works the best ... Just kidding! Any can will do)

Then push the cover into the slot over the hole in the ram (green arrow) just slightly below flush so cover does not catch the press body when operating the ram lever. (If cover is too loose, unbend for a tight friction fit)

No more pesky spent primers!

 

[LiveLife]

Here's a tip for breaking in a new Pro Auto Disk.

Especially if you are using uncoated powders (FYI, some flattened ball powders like W231/HP-38/WSF/AutoComp etc. have fine coating which help coat the elastomer wiper at the bottom of powder hopper that top surface of Auto Disk slides on), take the hopper off and coat the bottom of elastomer wiper with fine graphite powder until black. This will help Auto Disk slide smoothly for more consistent powder drops.

If you do not have fine graphite powder handy, finely shave No. 2 pencil lead on paper and rub with finger tip until smooth and coat the bottom of wiper til black.

And if you want to drop in-between hole charges with Auto Disk, here's the $1 mod that allows infinite adjustment - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/working-down-9mm-load.848121/#post-11062279

More tips on initial setup and operation of Pro 1000 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...pro-1000-set-up-problems.761231/#post-9613214

A quick spray of One Shot case lube, on straight wall pistol cases, reduces operating effort immensely!

I have found the newer ergo handle with updated linkage that OP has provides greater leverage for resizing brass (I don't lube brass when resizing pistol caliber brass) but when we did bullet setback myth busting for residual lube inside case neck, One Shot resulted in no bullet setback used wet or dry - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/

 

[funnelcake]

I had to put the Pro 1000 on hold but getting back to it. I think @ this point I’m either missing something simple or just plain being a dufus...

I can’t seem to get the die holes in the turret to line up with corresponding openings in the shell plate. In other words, hand cycling a case through w/o dies installed - it’ll hit the bottom of turret instead of being centered in the hole.

I’ve done the indexing a few times and it seems to advance through and “at the bottom” things seem good - case feeder will push case in, looks like she’ll plate indexes over primer ram at correct location & the case is pushed out with authority.

I’ve done some digging around but so far - still scratching the noggin!