BamaHoosier
Member
I have a Remington 788 that needs refinished.Anybody ever used Linseed Oil on a refinish?That's the one I keep hearing recommended on a budget.If push comes to shove,I'll take it to a pro,but I'd like to try it myself.
Linseed Oil Finish
- Thread starter BamaHoosier
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JoeCWales
Member
Oil Finish
If you use linseed oil, be sure to get "boiled linseed oil'. The regular stuff always remains tacky, like it never really dries. You won't have that problem if you use the boiled stuff.
Lately I've been using tung oil. It dries to a hard, high sheen finish quicker than most other oil finishes. I like the high gloss 'cause it's easy to knock down to a satin sheen with some 0000 steel wool if you want or can be left high gloss.
If you use linseed oil, be sure to get "boiled linseed oil'. The regular stuff always remains tacky, like it never really dries. You won't have that problem if you use the boiled stuff.
Lately I've been using tung oil. It dries to a hard, high sheen finish quicker than most other oil finishes. I like the high gloss 'cause it's easy to knock down to a satin sheen with some 0000 steel wool if you want or can be left high gloss.
dave from mesa
Member
I used "boiled linseed oil" on my Remington 22. I have found that if you heat it up it some it soaks into the wood better.
Rub it in. Leave it wet for a while and wipe up the excess.
This is not a high gloss finnish.
Think mine came out pretty good.
good luck and post some pics when you're done.
Rub it in. Leave it wet for a while and wipe up the excess.
This is not a high gloss finnish.
Think mine came out pretty good.
good luck and post some pics when you're done.
Ifishsum
Member
Boiled Linseed Oil makes a great finish if you're patient. You cannot rush it though. Do it warm and rub it in well by hand. The first day I put on 3-4 coats as it soaks in quickly. Then I put another coat on once a day for a week, using steel wool before putting on the next coat. After about 10-15 applications you will notice the grain starting to fill, and each application should be taking longer to soak into the wood. Then I let it cure for a week or so, and put on another coat once every 3-4 days until you get the look you want. You do not want it to build up on the surface, or you'll have a sticky mess that never seems to fully dry. Once it's done, I like to wax it for a low gloss but rich luster.
If you want a shiny clear coat type of finish and are in a hurry, don't use plain BLO - use Tru-Oil or LinSpeed which is BLO with plasticizers in it so it dries faster on the surface. I personally don't much like the look of those - too glossy for me - but they're much faster.
If you want a shiny clear coat type of finish and are in a hurry, don't use plain BLO - use Tru-Oil or LinSpeed which is BLO with plasticizers in it so it dries faster on the surface. I personally don't much like the look of those - too glossy for me - but they're much faster.
I prefer using Tung Oil. Tung is a tree, so it's a natural oil wood, not petroleum or another incompatible type.
Try to strip out the old finish as best you can. With handgun grips, I put them in a shallow bath of acetone, cover and leave for a day.
Let dry thoroughly, then rub in one coast. Use latex/vinyl gloves. Rub it in by hand until you feel it warm from the friction. Let it set near a warm place (like near a heat source in the winter - near, not "on", or just a warm place in the summer). Put another coat on a day or two later. Repeat for a week. by the fourth or fifth coat it will look like it's fine furniture. Here's some S&W grips I did that way.
Try to strip out the old finish as best you can. With handgun grips, I put them in a shallow bath of acetone, cover and leave for a day.
Let dry thoroughly, then rub in one coast. Use latex/vinyl gloves. Rub it in by hand until you feel it warm from the friction. Let it set near a warm place (like near a heat source in the winter - near, not "on", or just a warm place in the summer). Put another coat on a day or two later. Repeat for a week. by the fourth or fifth coat it will look like it's fine furniture. Here's some S&W grips I did that way.
Snarlingiron
Member
The classic linseed oil finish formula is:
coat every hour for a day
every day for a week
every week for a month
every month for a year.
This is for furniture. I have used linseed oil on gun stocks, but I have not taken it past the every day for a week stage. I did do the full treatment for a year on a roll top desk that I finished for my wife, and it is absolutely beautiful.
Linseed oil is also a plant oil, otherwise known as flax seed oil.
coat every hour for a day
every day for a week
every week for a month
every month for a year.
This is for furniture. I have used linseed oil on gun stocks, but I have not taken it past the every day for a week stage. I did do the full treatment for a year on a roll top desk that I finished for my wife, and it is absolutely beautiful.
Linseed oil is also a plant oil, otherwise known as flax seed oil.
Tapper02
Member
On the subject of Linseed oil, I have a quick question.
Let's just say that someone didn't know what they were doing, put a liberal amount of Linseed oil on their MilTech finished M1 stock (because a friend said so) and let it sit overnight to soak in. Now it's got a gummy buildup. How do you clean it up without ruining the stock?
Let's just say that someone didn't know what they were doing, put a liberal amount of Linseed oil on their MilTech finished M1 stock (because a friend said so) and let it sit overnight to soak in. Now it's got a gummy buildup. How do you clean it up without ruining the stock?
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I'd use mineral spirits, acetone, or MEK to strip it off. You'll need to do this evenly, then I would reapply it properly. I believe the proper mix is 1/2 linseed oil to 1/2 mineral spirits and rubbing it in by hand sparingly - not with a brush or just coating it thickly. I use Tung Oil myself and find it gives outstanding results. I prefer that because it is actually a wood oil, vs. linseed oil which is a grain/seed oil extract.
krs
Member
Boiled linseed oil will dry.
The method I've used for quite a while is to give the wood a wet coating and let it soak for 24 hours. After the 24 wipe off any that has not soaked in. It'll dry gummy if left on the surface.
Once the stock is dry, a week usually, but sometimes longer, and will begin to take a shine when rubbed hard and hot by hand then the finish begins. A very light well rubbed coat, no more oil than you can get on two fingertips, once a week and rubbed hard to a nice sheen. Continue these very light coats to taste or as long as you can stand to do it.
The wood will gain lustre with each coat. Walnut looks best if the pores are not filled, IMO, just rubbed thoroughly until you think you're about to blister your palm.
Steel wool is bad. It'll leave traces in the pores of wood that are difficult to remove and could rust over time. The stuff has the potential to make a nice gunstock look like the sides of a world travelling sailboat that just made port.
Oil is the finish of the finest old firearms
The term "Tung Oil" has been misused by the quicky finish industry. They'll put it loud and clear on their labels even if their product contains only 2% Tung in some polymer quick dry goop.
If color is needed use spirit stains. Never use oilbased stains and especially stay well clear of Minwax.
The method I've used for quite a while is to give the wood a wet coating and let it soak for 24 hours. After the 24 wipe off any that has not soaked in. It'll dry gummy if left on the surface.
Once the stock is dry, a week usually, but sometimes longer, and will begin to take a shine when rubbed hard and hot by hand then the finish begins. A very light well rubbed coat, no more oil than you can get on two fingertips, once a week and rubbed hard to a nice sheen. Continue these very light coats to taste or as long as you can stand to do it.
The wood will gain lustre with each coat. Walnut looks best if the pores are not filled, IMO, just rubbed thoroughly until you think you're about to blister your palm.
Steel wool is bad. It'll leave traces in the pores of wood that are difficult to remove and could rust over time. The stuff has the potential to make a nice gunstock look like the sides of a world travelling sailboat that just made port.
Oil is the finish of the finest old firearms
The term "Tung Oil" has been misused by the quicky finish industry. They'll put it loud and clear on their labels even if their product contains only 2% Tung in some polymer quick dry goop.
If color is needed use spirit stains. Never use oilbased stains and especially stay well clear of Minwax.
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