Shotgun stock finishing - Help..

[NMexJim]

So you used BLO instead of Tru-oil if I read right.

You can try to sand down the finish with 400 grit. Reapply stain and BLO.

Did you perhaps cut the stain with water? If not, then I have a feeling you still have too much of the original finish left in the grain to allow the stain to penetrate. If this is the case, you’ll need to re-strip with a citrus finish remover. I’d recommend you leave the stripper on for an hour and scrape gently off. Do it again until stock looks uniform. Bleach the stock. When it‘s white, reapply stain, BLO



I was not kidding when I said the 311 stock I did was a PITA. Whatever they put on it was tough to get out, I completely stripped that one three separate times before I’d let it go out. And, happy I was too. I’ve had polyurethane finishes give me way less trouble.

Stock work can be very rewarding and a pleasure to do. Until you get one of these …

 

[rhtwist]

Tru-Oil is a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and solvent, so if you want a "real oil finish" you'll have to be careful with it as it builds up a layer on top of the wood - I suggest to read carefully the thread "How to do the World's best oil finish" from Dfariswheel. Although it's already missing the pictures, it's a detailed explanation how to mimic an oil finish with "Danish oil" type finishes (Tru-Oil is essentially a type of Danish Oil).
Sadly, you are a little bit late for another coat of stain... You already applied BLO which penetrates and seals the wood and will be a PITA to remove, so don't even try it because you may ruin your stock with the solvents, or from excessive sanding - just let it be, your stock is actually turning rather nice.
P.S. If you want to use Tru-Oil, than there's really no need for first coats with BLO - just go straight with it.

I was not clear above, I meant Tru-Oil Walnut stain, sorry for the confusion. I was planning on using BLO for the finish. Looking at some colored Danish Oils, they don't seem to impart amount of color I want.
Going to check out shellac for coloring the blo. Hope spring eternal etc.....

 

[rhtwist]

So you used BLO instead of Tru-oil if I read right.

You can try to sand down the finish with 400 grit. Reapply stain and BLO.

Did you perhaps cut the stain with water? If not, then I have a feeling you still have too much of the original finish left in the grain to allow the stain to penetrate. If this is the case, you’ll need to re-strip with a citrus finish remover. I’d recommend you leave the stripper on for an hour and scrape gently off. Do it again until stock looks uniform. Bleach the stock. When it‘s white, reapply stain, BLO

View attachment 1186181

I was not kidding when I said the 311 stock I did was a PITA. Whatever they put on it was tough to get out, I completely stripped that one three separate times before I’d let it go out. And, happy I was too. I’ve had polyurethane finishes give me way less trouble.

Stock work can be very rewarding and a pleasure to do. Until you get one of these …

Hello NMexJim,
Unfortunately I did cut the stain 50/50 as suggested. Gave it 2 coats and then the BLO. I did not heed the warning signs mentioned and the steps I could have taken to avoid with my current situation. So now I am scrambling for a miracle solution. Saw something about using linseed oil based artist paint mixed with BLO and I guess using it as a glaze. Aniline dyes may mix with the blo to get it darker;.. But I will try the light sanding and trying the stain straight. Mixed the water based stain with blo and tested it out on some scrap pieces of possible beech or birch and it did darken over an initial blo layer. Not great like the beauties shown in this and the other threads...

 

[rhtwist]

Sanded with 400 and have been applying straight TO Walnut stain. Looks darker, will have to wait for it to dry and then see how it holds up to more blo. Step in the right direction.. Tomorrow will tell... Happy Holidays to all and Best Regards!
Many thanx.

 

[NMexJim]

You can add stain to the BLO and apply. It’s not something I‘ve done, only read about, but it makes some sense.

I have stained through some small areas that had an oil finish, but I don’t think that’s going to work for an entire stick.

Good luck. Keep us posted please. I’m very interested in your results.

By the way, artist linseed oil is the purest linseed oil available. Much more refined than BLO

 

[rhtwist]

I believe it looks better. Used the straight stain and put a coat of BLO on it, leave it to dry now.

 

[rhtwist]

Purchased some artist oil paints and have mixed them to a color I like, in blo. Letting it percolate overnight and then will try it on something. Found some videos on staining wood for guitars with the combination. Fingers crossed for a lot of Van Dyke brown and a smidgen of burnt sienna!! The paints are artistically mixed with pure linseed oil. Hope the BLO will dry quicker.
BTW from experience, can anyone advise on how many coats of blo to get a good sheen?
As always thanks

 

[tmd16556]

That’s not a bad pattern for birch. It’s just prone to natural camo patterns. I did a stain a linseed oil finish on a Sears Ranger stock this past summer. Dark spots get darker and light spots stay light with birch. It is amazing on real walnut. These were the utility grade of the era, so clean, strong, and protected from water is the best goal. Anything more is a bonus.

 

[rhtwist]

Progress shown below. I am undecided, better I think!! What do ya think!

 

[rhtwist]

That’s not a bad pattern for birch. It’s just prone to natural camo patterns. I did a stain a linseed oil finish on a Sears Ranger stock this past summer. Dark spots get darker and light spots stay light with birch. It is amazing on real walnut. These were the utility grade of the era, so clean, strong, and protected from water is the best goal. Anything more is a bonus.

They look good, not walnut but attractive and in my case, better than the varnish original finish. Still working on color and then enough blo coats to give it a bit of a better sheen. Seen that tung oil might be used for the final coats to give it more gloss!?

 

[NMexJim]

You can get a gloss finish with linseed, but it takes forever. You will need a product with ”dryers“. Dryers are some form of spirits mineral or otherwise which evaporate or “gas off” quickly and accelerate drying time. I was looking for something to explain this and happened across this article which may help.

Firearms Forum Article - A Classic Oil Finish - From: Mark Freburg

A Classic Oil Finish By Frank Whiton The following is my gun stock finishing method using the wet sanding technique. I must give credit to Phil Pilkington for teaching this procedure to me. I attended a week long school presented by Phil that covered stock layout, checkering, his finishing...

www.firearmsforum.com

Dryers obviously accelerate the drying of an oil be it linseed or tung. BLO nor pure tung has any dryers added. It can take linseed or tung weeks to truly dry and not be gummy. Tru-Oil on the other hand is a linseed-based product that has dryers added. They have a new product out that is tung based. As the article says there are others.

From your posts, I didn’t get the impression you wanted to go this way. BLO is the quickest and easiest way to get a protective finish, but it will not be glass smooth or glossy. To get that takes far more work and time.

I’ve seen some very nice stocks finished with TruOil. Not my favorite, but it certainly has worked for a long time and a bazillion people. It will need to be polished off in the end with a product such as 3M Hand Glaze to get bumps and dust out.

If you don’t want to go the Tru-oil route, you might try a stock wax to give you some shine. Birchwood Casey makes a purpose-built wax. I have had a can of Mother’s carnauba wax for years that I use on the beautiful oil finishes and metal of my Caesar Guerini shotguns. Sheds water like a duck’s back and smells good too.

Again, if you want to apply BLO, as I posted earlier, heat it first to get better and deeper penetration. And, if you don’t like the end product, you can certainly strip it all and start again. Practice makes perfect You know

 

[Oldschool shooter]

I did a birch stock with alcohol based leather die. Use sparingly, you can do a 2nd coat if you want it darker. You will not get a splotchy finish, it will be uniform. You can order online.

 

[rhtwist]

You can get a gloss finish with linseed, but it takes forever. You will need a product with ”dryers“. Dryers are some form of spirits mineral or otherwise which evaporate or “gas off” quickly and accelerate drying time. I was looking for something to explain this and happened across this article which may help.

Firearms Forum Article - A Classic Oil Finish - From: Mark Freburg

A Classic Oil Finish By Frank Whiton The following is my gun stock finishing method using the wet sanding technique. I must give credit to Phil Pilkington for teaching this procedure to me. I attended a week long school presented by Phil that covered stock layout, checkering, his finishing...

www.firearmsforum.com

Dryers obviously accelerate the drying of an oil be it linseed or tung. BLO nor pure tung has any dryers added. It can take linseed or tung weeks to truly dry and not be gummy. Tru-Oil on the other hand is a linseed-based product that has dryers added. They have a new product out that is tung based. As the article says there are others.

From your posts, I didn’t get the impression you wanted to go this way. BLO is the quickest and easiest way to get a protective finish, but it will not be glass smooth or glossy. To get that takes far more work and time.

I’ve seen some very nice stocks finished with TruOil. Not my favorite, but it certainly has worked for a long time and a bazillion people. It will need to be polished off in the end with a product such as 3M Hand Glaze to get bumps and dust out.

If you don’t want to go the Tru-oil route, you might try a stock wax to give you some shine. Birchwood Casey makes a purpose-built wax. I have had a can of Mother’s carnauba wax for years that I use on the beautiful oil finishes and metal of my Caesar Guerini shotguns. Sheds water like a duck’s back and smells good too.

Again, if you want to apply BLO, as I posted earlier, heat it first to get better and deeper penetration. And, if you don’t like the end product, you can certainly strip it all and start again. Practice makes perfect You know

Howdy,
I don't want a gloss. But want it glossier than it is now. Maybe more coats of blo will do it. Will certainly read that article but it appears to go toward a really fine finish. Wanted blo for the old style. Up to about 5 coats of blo so far, another tomorrow. Waiting a overnight to dry and did try heating it with a hair dryer on some cold days. This caused little drops of liquid to appear on the surface and I just wiped it off fully. The idea of a natural wax sound like good possibility. Will try to get at least 9 coats of the oil before thinking of the wax and thanks! The long time frame is beginning to sink in and wear on my ambitions . The version I heard was practice makes permanent, perfect practice makes perfect. Got off to a bad start but I believe it has promises and I want to go shoot the dang thing.

 

[rhtwist]

I did a birch stock with alcohol based leather die. Use sparingly, you can do a 2nd coat if you want it darker. You will not get a splotchy finish, it will be uniform. You can order online.

Hey there Oldschool, were I to go back in time I believe I would use the leather dyes and give it more coats to darken. Also to add some reddish/orangish color to it. I know the bloctches are there. Did not care for the original varnish finish to conceal the wood and the price point of the firearm!!
Thanks for the reply

 

[NMexJim]

Somewhere we've gotten our wires crossed. When I mentioned "heating the oil" I did not mean heat the surface of an applied blo. What I mean is for you to use a double boiler system - a small can suspended inside of a larger can filled w/ water. Heat the oil before the application. Re-read some of the threads.

 

[rhtwist]

Somewhere we've gotten our wires crossed. When I mentioned "heating the oil" I did not mean heat the surface of an applied blo. What I mean is for you to use a double boiler system - a small can suspended inside of a larger can filled w/ water. Heat the oil before the application. Re-read some of the threads.

Howdy and I have been heating the oil before applying it as you mentioned. I also wanted to try to dry the oil faster as it has gotten colder at my locale and used the hair dryer on the stock as mentioned. Noticed today that the finish was gummy. I don't think it had adequate time to dry so I wiped it down and am giving it another day to see if it is ready for the next coat. Thanks I did understand you and I didn't clarify myself well. Also it is possible that the oil paints don't dry as quickly. Thank you!

 

[NMexJim]

So, without dryers you in the long haul waiting for the BLO to dry. Definitely find a warm spot to allow it to set.

we didn’t try to fill the grain which gives that nice smooth finish. What I might do in your situation is give the BLO several days to dry in a warm room. Then, to get what I think you want, I’d use some TruOil Over the BLO. Don’t heat TruOil. Rub in an area and see if there any gum starts to form. If it does, back off a few more days and try again.

TruOil can be rubbed in using your hand. When it starts to get tacky. Take your palm and smooth all the swirls into a line going with the stock and let dry. Take 400 grit and lightly sand the entire stock. All you want is to give some ‘tooth‘ for the next coat. Do this 2-3 times and she how she looks.

Since you’ll be using a product that truly drys, you also get some bumps and dust. Sand those out lightly and coat again. After 5 rub-outs or so, you may like what you see, but there will be bumps, dust, dog/cat hair maybe. This is where the 3M Hand Glaze comes in. Polish out the entire stock and see how you like it. Finally, wax it.

I have 6’ piece of 12“ PVC pipe. I’ve put two standard light bulbs in the bottom and have a piece of plywood over them drilled full of hole to let the heat through. Just down from the top, I have a hanging bar crossing through the pipe 3/8”. I’ve cut an opening in the side big enough to get stocks in easily. Across this opening I’ve hung overlapping pieces of heavy clear plastic Kinda like you see some warehouse doors.

When I get ready to do a true, hand rubbed finish, I spray the inside of the pipe with water and wipe it down well. Gives a dust free heated environment and ends most dust problems. Saves elbow grease. You keep doing this, build one.

 

[rhtwist]

So, without dryers you in the long haul waiting for the BLO to dry. Definitely find a warm spot to allow it to set.

we didn’t try to fill the grain which gives that nice smooth finish. What I might do in your situation is give the BLO several days to dry in a warm room. Then, to get what I think you want, I’d use some TruOil Over the BLO. Don’t heat TruOil. Rub in an area and see if there any gum starts to form. If it does, back off a few more days and try again.

TruOil can be rubbed in using your hand. When it starts to get tacky. Take your palm and smooth all the swirls into a line going with the stock and let dry. Take 400 grit and lightly sand the entire stock. All you want is to give some ‘tooth‘ for the next coat. Do this 2-3 times and she how she looks.

Since you’ll be using a product that truly drys, you also get some bumps and dust. Sand those out lightly and coat again. After 5 rub-outs or so, you may like what you see, but there will be bumps, dust, dog/cat hair maybe. This is where the 3M Hand Glaze comes in. Polish out the entire stock and see how you like it. Finally, wax it.

I have 6’ piece of 12“ PVC pipe. I’ve put two standard light bulbs in the bottom and have a piece of plywood over them drilled full of hole to let the heat through. Just down from the top, I have a hanging bar crossing through the pipe 3/8”. I’ve cut an opening in the side big enough to get stocks in easily. Across this opening I’ve hung overlapping pieces of heavy clear plastic Kinda like you see some warehouse doors.

When I get ready to do a true, hand rubbed finish, I spray the inside of the pipe with water and wipe it down well. Gives a dust free heated environment and ends most dust problems. Saves elbow grease. You keep doing this, build one.

I need a warm spot to put the stock in. Today after 2 days drying it seemed pretty dry, so I gave it one more coat of the colored BLO. Really tried to get of any excess oil and will have to give it another 2 days maybe. I was going to give it more blo coats and extended drying times. If I am following you, the Tru-Oil should give it a quicker drying, a little harder and a shinier finish, is that correct?
Not hot enough to cure the stock well and not cool enough to put on the heater........... May have to build a heater box, not a professional as yours. I do have a rifle stock I want to refinish if this turns out half decent.............................................
Thanx for the knowledgeable advice!
Finish as of today

 

[NMexJim]

Yes, I believe TruOil could be applied over the BLO, and I believe this because they are like substances. I think your stock needs to be as dry as possible before applying Birchwood. However, understand that I have not performed this personally. But, be sure and call Birchwood Casey 877 269 8490 and see if they have an opinion one way or the other.

Yes, it would be harder and glossier, but since you did not fill the grain before you started, then you have some work to do with fine sandpaper and a stock wet w/ TruOil. The slurry will fill the grain as you go. If you have a rifle stock to do, then this is good practice although I recommend filling before applying finish. If your rifle stock has checkering, then you need to tape it off. This is a Miroku I did for a friend years back using a spray on oil finish. Worked great.

CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH | Brownells

Check out the CHEM-PAK available Online at Brownells Today and many more Stock Finishing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

But, back to the here and now, and understanding that you want a bit different finish than the BLO, I would go to the TruOil.

 

[doubleh]

I am with JeffG on the leather dye for wood that doesn't take stain uniformly.. I quit any type of oil finish many years ago and refuse to use any colored finish as that dulls what is underneath. One of the easiest, toughest, and quickest methods is to apply a mist finish with a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush and clear lacquer. No sanding needed between coats as lacquer amalgamates into each coat. Get a little heavy handed and create a run. Sand it smooth after dry and continue. Just let it dry and apply another coat until you have what you want. It will be a matte finish but can be rubbed into what you desire all the way to a high gloss.

 

[rhtwist]

Yes, I believe TruOil could be applied over the BLO, and I believe this because they are like substances. I think your stock needs to be as dry as possible before applying Birchwood. However, understand that I have not performed this personally. But, be sure and call Birchwood Casey 877 269 8490 and see if they have an opinion one way or the other.

Yes, it would be harder and glossier, but since you did not fill the grain before you started, then you have some work to do with fine sandpaper and a stock wet w/ TruOil. The slurry will fill the grain as you go. If you have a rifle stock to do, then this is good practice although I recommend filling before applying finish. If your rifle stock has checkering, then you need to tape it off. This is a Miroku I did for a friend years back using a spray on oil finish. Worked great.

CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH | Brownells

Check out the CHEM-PAK available Online at Brownells Today and many more Stock Finishing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

But, back to the here and now, and understanding that you want a bit different finish than the BLO, I would go to the TruOil.

Thank you as always. I will be applying a few more coats of blo and see if I like the final finish. I didn't expect to get a pore-filled finish and will accept what occurs or consider the Tru-oil type of procedure. Finger's crossed. Do admire the finish on the stock your picture!!

 

[rhtwist]

I am with JeffG on the leather dye for wood that doesn't take stain uniformly.. I quit any type of oil finish many years ago and refuse to use any colored finish as that dulls what is underneath. One of the easiest, toughest, and quickest methods is to apply a mist finish with a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush and clear lacquer. No sanding needed between coats as lacquer amalgamates into each coat. Get a little heavy handed and create a run. Sand it smooth after dry and continue. Just let it dry and apply another coat until you have what you want. It will be a matte finish but can be rubbed into what you desire all the way to a high gloss.

Appreciate the additional viewpoints on that style of dye. I do wish to see what the blo eventually produces as the last stock I finished, ages ago was that type. Being walnut, that stock did not need the coloring. It is a pain the way I chose!
It was suggested that a wax over the blo might enhance the finish. May give that a try. Don't have the gumption for getting a spray rig and trying to do that well.....
Thankx

 

[NMexJim]

Those pictures were taken about 5 coats into a 10 coat finish. The point is the masking of checkering. Checkering fills with finish and looks bad. You use a fine tipped X-Acto knife to cut the tape when you apply and to break the finish when you‘re done to get the tape off. Checkering itself look best (to me ) when you use checkering oil as a finish.

I like lacquer and I really like spray on finish, but lacquer tends to be more tender than oil finishes and does not hold up to extended dampness. That why folks that have lacquered furniture throw a hissy fit if you put an ice filled glass down w/o a coaster.

Really, it’s whatever floats your boat.

 

[rhtwist]

Those pictures were taken about 5 coats into a 10 coat finish. The point is the masking of checkering. Checkering fills with finish and looks bad. You use a fine tipped X-Acto knife to cut the tape when you apply and to break the finish when you‘re done to get the tape off. Checkering itself look best (to me ) when you use checkering oil as a finish.

I like lacquer and I really like spray on finish, but lacquer tends to be more tender than oil finishes and does not hold up to extended dampness. That why folks that have lacquered furniture throw a hissy fit if you put an ice filled glass down w/o a coaster.

Really, it’s whatever floats your boat.

More good information that I didn't know about the lacquer. Luckily I have no checkering, another skill i wish I had perfected!!! Used 0000 steel wool on the stock. Still doesn't seem to have dried to my liking for another coat. Probable that I didn't let previous coats dry adequately. So I will wait awhile as the weather is warming up. Any tips on using wax after the blo has dried?

 

[NMexJim]

So, here‘s a video w/ Cesar Guerini showing BLO in use on their fine guns. I have an Invictus clays gun that as Andrew mentioned gets dulled by sunscreen and sweat. I’ve mentioned that I use wax on both the stock and metal to help protect, but hard use takes a toll. We sometimes shoot 400+ rounds over a long weekend of sporting clays competition. Between skeet, 5-stand and SC, it’s not a problem to burn 4-5,000 rounds a year. That’s a lot of handling. I have brought the finish back to a factory sheen often using both BLO and tung - no difference between the two as far as touch up work. 6-years in and my Invictus looks nearly new. As Andrew says, oil is an easy finish to maintain. It’s just getting there that’s the pain.

Maintaining A Hand Rubbed Oil Finish Gun Stock: Caesar Guerini shotguns

All Caesar Guerini shotguns have a beautiful hand rubbed oil finish on the gun stock. With a small amount of care and feeding, your Caesar Guerini oil finish...

youtu.be

I realize you might not want to make stock finishing your life’s work, but you’re at a point where you can easily strip and do over. You’ve learned a lot and the process will go faster. I still think you have residual old finish that’s giving you grief. Maybe use the TruOil system the next time.

Anyway, best of luck and adios.