Shotgun stock finishing - Help..

More good information that I didn't know about the lacquer. Luckily I have no checkering, another skill i wish I had perfected!!! Used 0000 steel wool on the stock. Still doesn't seem to have dried to my liking for another coat. Probable that I didn't let previous coats dry adequately. So I will wait awhile as the weather is warming up. Any tips on using wax after the blo has dried?
I no longer use steel wool on wood finishes. I had an old cabinet, custom furniture friend that only used Brown Paper Sacks. You do not want any print on them at all. Just cut off a piece and wad it up and start working it as you would steel wool. The upside is that you do not have to worry about steel getting embedded into the wood. On a piece that has not fully dried it will absorb the excess from the surface. The paper sack gets finer/softer as you use it. Any oils absorbed should be discarded.
 
I don't use steel wool either except for one operation. When I have an oiled stock that has been waxed frequently (dirty) and has seen heavy use with sweat and sunblock and has a fair-sized area to rebuild from, say, check weld, then I'll take 0000 gun steelwool (not coated in rust-preventative oil) and very gently work the area around the damage to give that area "tooth" to take finish as well.

I barely mark or scratch the surrounding area. Rub your oil in well over your repair area and blend it out into the "good" areas. The oil will become somewhat tacky as you rub. Take your palm and run the length of the stock to take any swirls out and align the finish with the grain. Let dry 24-hrs, gently polish out w/ a soft cloth, rewax, and it's good to go.

I've seen some folks in my club use super-fine polishing-type sandpaper. This is my one place for steel wool.

Back when there was a definite shift in the clays programs from semi and pump, even double barrels, to superimposed, we started to see more oil finishes and the problems I'm talking about. The old-timers who had been using oil finishes for years had the answers. No worries.
 
So, here‘s a video w/ Cesar Guerini showing BLO in use on their fine guns. I have an Invictus clays gun that as Andrew mentioned gets dulled by sunscreen and sweat. I’ve mentioned that I use wax on both the stock and metal to help protect, but hard use takes a toll. We sometimes shoot 400+ rounds over a long weekend of sporting clays competition. Between skeet, 5-stand and SC, it’s not a problem to burn 4-5,000 rounds a year. That’s a lot of handling. I have brought the finish back to a factory sheen often using both BLO and tung - no difference between the two as far as touch up work. 6-years in and my Invictus looks nearly new. As Andrew says, oil is an easy finish to maintain. It’s just getting there that’s the pain.


I realize you might not want to make stock finishing your life’s work, but you’re at a point where you can easily strip and do over. You’ve learned a lot and the process will go faster. I still think you have residual old finish that’s giving you grief. Maybe use the TruOil system the next time.

Anyway, best of luck and adios.
Better news today. The stock was still a bit tacky so I decided to just rub it with my hands and build up friction heat. This took some of the tacky away and I noticed a sheen on the finish. It appears as if the pores have maybe been filled with the previous blo and paint coats. I will try this a few days and maybe it will get hot here to actually dry it more. Thanks for the info on the those wonderful looking firearms and maintenance. It is beginning to look like I had hoped and I will keep this thread for the .22 I want to refinish next, assuming this double does work out.
Will try to get a good photo for some knowledgeable critique.
Thanks
 
Ufor.jpg But.jpg
Well I believe I am satisfied with the results. This is with a few more coats of blo and let dry til now. Oh there was a small mistake/repair also. Do it right or do it again. Learned a lot of what not to do and what to do with your help!! The next one will go easier
Thanks once again
 
Back
Top