Boiled linseed oil will dry.
The method I've used for quite a while is to give the wood a wet coating and let it soak for 24 hours. After the 24 wipe off any that has not soaked in. It'll dry gummy if left on the surface.
Once the stock is dry, a week usually, but sometimes longer, and will begin to take a shine when rubbed hard and hot by hand then the finish begins. A very light well rubbed coat, no more oil than you can get on two fingertips, once a week and rubbed hard to a nice sheen. Continue these very light coats to taste or as long as you can stand to do it.
The wood will gain lustre with each coat. Walnut looks best if the pores are not filled, IMO, just rubbed thoroughly until you think you're about to blister your palm.
Steel wool is bad. It'll leave traces in the pores of wood that are difficult to remove and could rust over time. The stuff has the potential to make a nice gunstock look like the sides of a world travelling sailboat that just made port.
Oil is the finish of the finest old firearms
The term "Tung Oil" has been misused by the quicky finish industry. They'll put it loud and clear on their labels even if their product contains only 2% Tung in some polymer quick dry goop.
If color is needed use spirit stains. Never use oilbased stains and especially stay well clear of Minwax.