LNL EZ-Ject Upgrade

[Wilburt]

I did have a bit of a problem with the shell plate indexing smooth. I wonder if it's b/c of a warp as well. I did try adjusting the pawls but I seemed that all i was doing was over correcting a different problem.

Were you using jewelers rouge to correct the warp?

 

[Walkalong]

I used 220 grit, then 320 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit. I wanted to take a few thousandths off, not just polish.

The way the plate bolts on (which is a good design) only allows for so much thickness. It that is exceeded, it will bind.

Use your dial caliper to lay across the bottom of your shell plate to see if it is warped a bit. It lays dead flat on my old plates, but showed a little curvature on the two new ones that were binding, one badly.

 

[Walkalong]

Hey Wilburt

Here is a color pic I did of the LNL Sub Plate/Shell Plate/Drive Hub, and a short explanation of what I did to make mine work with the new Sub Plate which did not match my other parts quite as well as the original, and what I did to my warped Shell Plate

Excel file in a Zipped folder. Just got home from work. Worked on this on and off during the day as I got a chance.

 

[WV_Vizsla]

Thanks for some more excellent work! I have no problems yet of that type. But will check all plates before/after sending for the new sub plate.

I still have some confusion on the adjustment of the praw timing... Both ram up stroke and down have the slightest jump into ball lock. Do the left and right praw effect each other in any way?? Seems that I get the down OK and the UP needs tweeked... and then repeat. Using the LNL case feeder and RCBS bullet feeder.

 

[Wilburt]

That was a good ilistration and I saved it for future referance. When I get my stuff back I will check the clearances. I do remember having more of a problem once i put the new subplate on. I would have never come up with that solution though. It make sense now. Seems the tolorances are a little tight to be swaping subplates with differant LNL's. I don't have a lathe but I might try taking it apart and polishhing A/B with my dremel.

I guess after you take the subplate off via the 2 side bolts, the drive hub comes off easy? I see you illistated a gray part linking the drive hub to the inner drive shaft.

I still have some confusion on the adjustment of the praw timing

Try this thread: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=463583

 

[Walkalong]

I see you illistated a gray part linking the drive hub to the inner drive shaft.

It drives the Hub, but it is in a slot that runs all the way down to the bottom of the Hub, allowing the Hub to lift off of the Inner Drive Shaft.

 

[Dreaded]

I stated earlier in the thread that i had no problems with 9mm on my LNL AP, but once i received my 357 shell plate that's when i had station 5 problems. I machined the base as pictured and it worked out perfectly. Thanks Walkalong!

 

[Guy B. Meredith]

I ordered and installed the case feed/EZject sub-plate for my 006XX serial number LNL AP and just a few minutes ago received my reworked #6 plate and installed it.

Interesting thing is that the new priming system comes with the upgrade kit. I'd already upgraded that portion with the exception of the addition of the punch with the hex head mount rather than thumb screw mount.

At first I did not realize that there is a new way of installing the case retainer spring. The mount for the case feed creates a channel into which the spring needs to be routed. Originally this was not a channel so the spring could much more easily be installed by simply stretching it around the plate.

I load .38 spl almost exclusively for now with a mix of some .357 magnum. The case DOES tilt going into station 5. Given the way the bullet is inserted I do not think this will be noticeable.

 

[WV_Vizsla]

Quick turn

I ordered the sub-plate to upgrade at home. Was said to be ~ 4 week backorder. In my hand in two weeks. Will send shell plates for grinding.

Also asked factory about warped plates... Now using a finer test jig for new and reground plates.

 

[Randy1911]

I did the mod like Walkalong showed and it solved my problems. Works like a champ now. I did have to send my 9mm shell plate back because it would lock up and not turn after tighten down (had it modified by them. It worked fine before that). They did not say what was wrong, but it works now.

 

[Walkalong]

I'm pretty sure that only the #45 shellplate works with the EZ-Ject system. Using the #1 with 45acp will cause problems.

I just found out the other day that my #1 won't work on the EZ-Ject. I bought a #45 and it works flawlessly.

Link to Post

 

[WV_Vizsla]

My #45 also works flawlessly.
Reground #1 also works great with new Ezject for 243, 270 & 3006

 

[tggdeer]

have a question for you LNL guys. Station #1 in my press does't hold the die bushing tight enough. I can see a little movement when I size/decap a case. Every 20 cycles I have to reach up and tighten with fingers. I am thinking of getting a thicker o-ring. I carefully, inspected the lugs on the press, and I can't see any damage, like the metal mushroomed or scored. I don't think I've ever had the sizing die adjusted down too far too cause this. Any Ideas?

 

[tggdeer]

More info.

If I tighten the sizing die with a wrench , it does not work loose. I don't tighten the other dies with a wrench and they never loosen. I am under the impression , that it should not need more than finger tight. Maybe in my case it does.

 

[Walkalong]

I tighten down all my dies in the bushings, except some crimp dies which I use spacers with to vary the crimp. I have read about folks having this problem with bushings loosening up in the press, but have not experienced it. I do have a couple of poorly machined bushings that did not work well. (Too tight) One of these days I'll send em back for replacement.

 

[Wilburt]

Yep, Hornady will replace the bushings if they're bad. I just use a wrench on the ones that get loose. They don't come loose after that.

 

[WV_Vizsla]

First try a different bushing in slot #1. Then try Teflon tape on the loose bushing over the orings. Use as much tape as will fit and use pliers to click in place. Never had a size die work free, but powder die used to rotate loose.

 

[Onagoth]

I am having the 'tipping' problem with 9mm casings, virtually every one gets hung up in the shellplate after rocking over the retaining spring.

I tried dremeling out the subplate a little further to allow the spring to drop sooner, but it doesn't seem to be having any effect.

 

[Depdog]

The tipping is caused by the lip on the bottom of the shell plate. It is not large enought and is not fully depressing the spring low enough to keep the brass from hitting it. I confirmed this myself by putting superglue along the 45 degree bevel on that lip. Made it larger and it pushed the spring down and everything fed fine. Problem is the glue chips off after about 20 to 30 revolutions and the tipping starts again. I called Hornady today and they have a new number 16 and 8 plate on the way to me. Looking at the lip on the 45 shellplate and the one I use for my 40 SW they are both large and almost square. The ones on my 16 and 8 are about 1/2 the size and the edge that faces the spring has a 45 degree bevel.

Hope my explanation made sense.

Glenn

 

[dudlee]

I was having the Tipped case problem on both 45 Colt and 45 ACP. I'm using LEE carbide dies with the crimp die in station 5. The subplate mod cured the problems..

 

[Walkalong]

Looks good. Glad it solved the problem.

 

[Depdog]

dudlee

So what did you do exactly? Is there a discussion on this, or your own mod you came up with?

Thanks
Glenn

 

[Walkalong]

Read the thread from the beginning, including following the link to Wilburt's thread, and all will be clear.