Looking for a 357 handload without stuck cases

ms6852 said:
Another thing you could do if you do not want to buy factory ammo, is too drop your load data to minimum loads per the manual you use. If the case still gets stuck it is not pressure related.
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The cases don't always get stuck. They are fine when I go with mild 357.
 
Docendo Discimus said:
How do the primers look on the fired cases? Flat?
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They are flattened on these powerful loads. I know everyone says that means high pressure. That's true but I don't think flatened primers mean OVER pressure. I expect flattened primers on powerful 44 Mag. I also see flattened primers on factory 5.7X28
 
Flattened is one thing, but check the primer hit as well, that's a sure sign.

Oh and I shoot my powder coated 160gr lead bullets out of my Henry lever at about 1800fps, very accurate. What is the recipe you're using with your loads?
 
chris in va said:
Flattened is one thing, but check the primer hit as well, that's a sure sign.

Oh and I shoot my powder coated 160gr lead bullets out of my Henry lever at about 1800fps, very accurate. What is the recipe you're using with your loads?
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Magnum loads use slow burning powder. For that reason they are much faster with longer barrels. On the other hand 38 special isn't much faster with a long barrel.

As for my recipe, see my first post.
 
fxvr5 said:
If your Blackhawk is stainless steel, you can pull the cylinder and drop it in a container filled with Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover overnight or a few days. The carbon will wipe off with a cloth.
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i wish mine was stainless, i'd do this in a flash
 
You have stated that you have cleaned the chambers in the cylinders. Run a Q-tip through each chamber, if the cotton snags than that is the problem, you have a rough chamber that needs polishing or more cleaning. Do you know if it happens on every chamber or a specific chamber? The fact that you mentioned that it does not happen with mild loads makes me think that it is a pressure issue and that your powder dispenser needs to be recalibrated or better yet measure each load to make sure you have the correct amount.

Sometimes the answer is right in front of us, and we need to go back to basics.
 
ms6852 said:
You have stated that you have cleaned the chambers in the cylinders. Run a Q-tip through each chamber, if the cotton snags than that is the problem, you have a rough chamber that needs polishing or more cleaning. Do you know if it happens on every chamber or a specific chamber? The fact that you mentioned that it does not happen with mild loads makes me think that it is a pressure issue and that your powder dispenser needs to be recalibrated or better yet measure each load to make sure you have the correct amount.
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The cylinder seems very clean in front of the 357 brass but it looks like I do have a crud ring between the length of the 38 and 357 brass.
I can't really tell if one chamber is better than any other.
I don't think I have a problem with my powder measure. I often double check my charge with an electronic scale. My Blackhawk shoots slow but has stuck brass so I don't think the powder charge is the issue.
 
I power a bore brush w/ a drill to get the plastic and crud out of my shotgun chokes. I would think the same would work here just don’t get too heavy handed.

Try you locals for

Carbon Remover Solvent | Find the Best C4 Carbon Cleaner for Guns - Bore Tech

Cutting through carbon fouling on your firearm is a breeze with C4 Carbon Remover from Bore Tech. Even the most stubborn baked-on carbon is no match for this carbon remover. For the best carbon removing chemicals for gun cleaning, you have to choose Bore Tech. Shop our entire collection of bore...
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NMexJim said:
I power a bore brush w/ a drill to get the plastic and crud out of my shotgun chokes. I would think the same would work here just don’t get too heavy handed.

Try you locals for

Carbon Remover Solvent | Find the Best C4 Carbon Cleaner for Guns - Bore Tech

Cutting through carbon fouling on your firearm is a breeze with C4 Carbon Remover from Bore Tech. Even the most stubborn baked-on carbon is no match for this carbon remover. For the best carbon removing chemicals for gun cleaning, you have to choose Bore Tech. Shop our entire collection of bore...
www.boretech.com www.boretech.com
Click to expand...
I love The Boretech products. I have Eliminator, Black Powder and Chameleon Gel. All of those should work according to this attachment.
 

Attachments

  • Bore Tech Chemical-Selection-Guide.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 2
I had a problem with lead build up in my cylinder. Using solvent only hid the problem and didn't help remove it. Brownells sells some stainless cylinder brushes that work great. Run them dry and spin them in a cordless drill. Couple of seconds will do it so don't go crazy.

After everything is clean, pin gauge the cylinders and slug the bore. I had been shooting a swaged .357 HBWC. I needed to load with a .359 (Colt OMM).
 
Durango_Dave said:
The cases don't always get stuck. They are fine when I go with mild 357.
Click to expand...

Love it when the Op finds the solution, why the manuals say to work up...

I still wouldn't rule out this method of locating the problem.

Shooterbob said:
Does this happen with factory loads?
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Durango_Dave said:
I was thinking this might be a possibility. I shoot mainly 38 special. Before posting this I cleaned the cylinder and the rest of the gun thoroughly. It didn't help. Not that this possibility is ruled out.
I handload all my ammo. I haven't bought factory 357 for five years. I don't think I had the problem then.
Click to expand...

Most things I have neglected myself, were used years ago and I forget what they say is the first thing to go...;)
 
Durango_Dave said:
Berry's Plated bullets say they are good up to 1250 feet per sec.
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I've found out differently, and the number is more like 900.
The truth about any plated bullet is this:
They are a less accurate, but cleaner to load and a SHINY!! (And more expensive)substitute for a swaged lead target bullet. Nothing more unfortunately.
 
Lots of good suggestions to investigate already posted but here is something to consider and keep in the back of your mind.

My first S&W Model 25-5 (45 Colt, early 1980's production) would shoot one brand of case (R-P) without it sticking in the cylinder while a different brand of case (W-W) would shoot fine with the same bullet and powder charge but the case would stick in the chamber.

I've never found a solution or a reason why but I steer clear of W-W cases for my 45 Colt ammunition.

I'm not to say W-W cases in particular are bad but your chambers may have an aversion to a particular case. Just pay attention what cases work ok and what cases have sticking issues, if there is a noticeable difference,

All that said, I've shot lots of full power 357 Magnum ammunition in handguns for IHMSA Silhouette competition and have never had an issue with case sticking in the chambers. Guns were a S&W Model 19 and a T/C Contender.

I'd look at a thorough cleaning and or polishing of the chambers if other less evasive processes don't work.
 
Palladan44 said:
I've found out differently, and the number is more like 900.
The truth about any plated bullet is this:
They are a less accurate, but cleaner to load and a SHINY!! (And more expensive)substitute for a swaged lead target bullet. Nothing more unfortunately.
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Yes, and they tend to react very poorly to a tight roll crimp; the kind of crimp W296 needs to work halfway decently.
 
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