Looking for micrometer taper crimp seating die for 9mm

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rdtompki

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I'd like to switch over from my Micrometer RCBS Seater/Lee FCD to a single position taper crimp/preferable with micrometer. I actually have two combination dies from Hornady, but the version that is supposed to accept a micrometer only works with longer brass; the stem on the micrometer is too short for pistol.

Any suggestions? I'm adding a bullet feeder to my Hornady LNL AP press and want to feed the bullets in position 4 for better visibility. I'll go with position 3 if I have to and use mirrors or similar to check the powder level.

I could live without the micrometer which would simplify my question to one of "who makes the best taper crimp/seater combination for 9mm?".
Thanks!
 
I'm curious to see the responses. Hopefully they explain the benefits of a 'micrometer' seating die for 9mm :confused:
 
I could buy separate seating dies for different bullets, but I find it convenient to just use a dial indicator. Also convenient when I'm experimenting with OAL.I don't want the micrometer for the crimp, just for the seating (OAL).
 
Crimps don't get or need to be measured.

I disagree.

Since getting my Redding micrometer taper crimp die I record its setting when loading my 9mm ammunition. I set the crimp so as to remove all mouth flair AND not deform the bullet diameters (beyond the deformation that resulted systemically). As most of us do, I save and record in my log other significant measurements such as over all length and the brand of cases. But I also have started measuring and recording case wall thickness. This saves me time when I switch from bullet to bullet -- I just look up the taper crimp setting for that bullet with a particular brand of case.

Here is how it all comes into play.

I have three 9mm pistols. They have barrels measure .3548", .3552 and .3568" in groove diameter. I have lead bullets and poly coated lead bullets that range from .3546" to .3573" (these are averages developed from measuring five random bullets, in a box of bullets, at three 120 degree locations on those five bullets). I also have .356" Hornady XTP and .355" Montana Gold JHP bullets.

The cases I use are Winchester, Starline, R-P, Speer/Blazer, S&B and PMC. They have varying case wall thicknesses. They vary from .0085" to .0105".

One of the pistols has a slightly short free bore but average size chamber; it has the .3568" groove diameter. One has a long free bore and slightly large chamber; it has a .3552" groove diameter. The third has an average free bore and average size chamber; it has the .3548" groove diameter. My assessments of the free bore sizes came from trying different lengths of .356" XTP bullets in Speer cases doing a plunk and rotate test. They are purely judgement calls.

I have learned the hard way that the taper crimp adjustment has to match both the bullet diameter and the case wall thickness. Why? Using the same size taper crimp that I used on a hard smaller diameter bullet in a case with a thin case wall on a soft fatter bullet in a case with a thicker case wall can deform them to the point that they lose some accuracy. And we all know not removing enough mouth case flair can affect feeding reliability.

By using a micrometer taper crimp die I can control how much the mouth is turned in and eliminate any squeezing of the bullet at the case mouth. This step is recorded and is repeatable. I can go back to a load and quickly reset the taper crimp for any combination of cases and bullet diameter that I previously loaded.

I still have to match the barrel groove diameter with the bullet diameters AND take into account the hardness of the bullets (as a soft larger diameter bullet in a thicker case will be squeezed down in diameter more than a hard smaller diameter bullet in a thinner case). But that is all part of the art of reloading.

Hopefully they explain the benefits of a 'micrometer' seating die for 9mm

'Micrometer' seating is another topic. But here's a hint as to why you might want to use one: differing free bore lengths.
 
Wow. For me, and I'm a rather lazy type, just reading that explanation tired my little brain out. Let alone trying to do all that.
But that's the fun of all this. Each can put as much or as little (and be safe) as we want. I enjoy reloading-to a point. I do it more as a means to an end, the end being able to shoot more for the same money. For those wanting to get the best accuracy and finest ammo they can they can really go the extra steps. Just have fun.
 
I set stand alone crimp dies for a heavy crimp, and use spacers to adjust them for lighter crimps, and record what is used. (.010, .015, etc etc.)

If you are asking about a seater that has the micrometer top and also crimps, I don't think they make one. You have to crimp in a second step.

I actually use a Hornady seater with the micrometer top for 9MM. Then taper crimp with a C&H die.

I use an LNL and seat in station four, crimp in five for 9MM. I can see the powder charge when I seat the bullet.
 
I have a Hornady .45 seating die with micrometer spindle.
If the spindle is too short, it looks to me like you could drop in a simple spacer between the micrometer and actual seating plug to extend its reach.
 
If I recall most bullet seaters with a micrometer stem have a warning "Not for compressed loads". This tells me that you can damage the micrometer stem on over load. So if you happen to get a long case and taper crimp you could possibly damage it. The same can be said for a roll crimp if it's not in the right place. With this said you should crimp on a different station.
 
I'm going to try and get my Hornady combination to work so that I can install the bullet feeder in station 4. Then I can either leave station 3 empty or use it for my RCBS lockout die. In either configuration I will have an excellent view of the case.

If I stick with separate seat and crimp I'll some up with some better means of inspecting the charged case.
 
For decades I have been using separate seat and crimp but recently found myself in a situation where I had to combine the two.

I just used an old Lee die that I had. I have a little tool that looks like an upside down "U" with a hole in it to hold a dial indicator parallel to either leg. It lets you measure different heights of an object inside the legs, like a seating stem. I'll upload a photo if that's not clear enough.

Anyway this is the seat/crimp die I used.

IMG_20151218_163101_158_zpsw7s94ehz.jpg

No room for a PC die so I used a mirror and light.
IMG_20151216_142428_797_zps87y4xzqw.jpg
 
I ran 50 rounds through my Hornady seater/crimp die. Actually, the OAL was well controlled, the crimp looked good and all but one plunked and that round may well have passed in my barrel. I'm going to go down 1/8 turn or so on the crimp and see how things turn out. The only concession I'll make in my process is to plunk test match rounds at least for the first 4-5 matches.

I'll be able to use my lockout die in this new configuration, but more important I'll have my eyes directly on each case before the bullet feeder. I can easily eyeball dangerous variations in powder load.
 
Just got a new Redding catalog in. They now have Micrometer Adjustable Crimping dies that are design to work on progressives. Meaning they are not bulky. They list Taper crimp and some Profile crimp for a few calibers. The Part number for the 38spl/9mm TC is # 31282 List price is $95.30
 
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