Love my AR but the trigger needs some help...

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The issue I have with "adjustment screws" is they improve trigger pull by limiting sear engagement and this is potentially dangerous. Given the tolerances of an AR restricting the sear engagement means the safety engagement becomes much more critical.

What you're saying is that Timney, AR Gold, Wilson, Giselle, and all the others are unsafe?

How does an adjustment screw work if it doesn't limit the sear engagement? That's exactly what happens, having a short pull means having a much shorter engagement of the sear mating surfaces. Those surfaces, especially at the corners where it releases, are either up to it regardless of the amount of contact, or not.

If it's made of material that easily degrades and loses strength, or dressed at the wrong angle, it's defective. Triggers on some guns may be economically manufactured, but I don't know of any maker who deliberately puts out weak, dangerous, defective parts.

Gunsmiths have been adding a travel limiting screw to triggers for a long time, and for the M16/AR15 since practically new. No one has put out a bulletin or report claiming it's inherently dangerous for that firearm, much less the hundreds of others on the market - many of which come with them from the factory.

There are those who can't competently do any mechanical work, even a Chevy 4x4 owner can buy the wrong filter and dump all the oil in 30 seconds. Nonetheless, it doesn't mean no American is qualified to change there own oil. The stupid will be with us always, they are responsible for their behavior. It's not a perfect world.

That there should be caution exercised and a reality check on skill level performed, no question. Working at an auto parts counter, I would require ANY person repairing cars to be required to have a two year degree. Some folks can't tell fuel injection from a carburetor and tell me I'm stupid. Happens all the time.

Thanks for your concern for the public, my point is that I consider the AR target trigger market as misdirected, considering the large number of posts I read by young, inexperienced shooters who seem to have more credit limit than actual need. So, I view recommendations to blow $150 -250 on a trigger to be a bit much, especially when most come with that little 40c screw that limits sear engagement anyway.

If this was about stoning, changing springs, and doing detailed work to get a target trigger on a military weapon, there's no effective difference if the work is competently done. I recommend the set screw because there is less to screw up, and properly adjusted, it's inexpensive.

But that doesn't make a lot of profit, I have no doubt some will strongly recommend high dollar triggers regardless of my objections to them.
 
I was commenting regarding adding adjustments to stock AR triggers. All the triggers you listed (and others) are purpose designed from the start to have less engagement and/or different engagement angles.
 
I cleaned and lubed my hammer and trigger pins with 3000 grit sandpaper. I also deburred my sear, trigger, and hammer surfaces and then put in a yellow JP trigger spring and have noticed a ton of difference for 10 bucks.

Take caution if doing your own trigger job on a AR. It is possible to remove a small amout of material at the trigger / hammer engagement that will allow your rifle to fire more than one rd with a single trigger pull. It may not happen all the time and it may take a few hundred rds after the 'home' trigger job. If that happens at a range with others around you could have some splanin to do!
 
1. I think you are overpaying for the RRA trigger if $120 is the best deal you can find. Inflationary pressures aside, I paid $85 for my RRA 2-stage 5 years or so ago.

2. I've had very good luck with just mix and matching stock trigger parts until I get a set I like. Of course, you need several sets of parts to do this; but you can usually buy complete fire control groups for $30-40 - meaning you could buy 3-4 sets and still be below the cost of many match triggers.

3. I've also had real good luck with just shooting a rifle until the stock trigger smooths out. In fact, my favorite rifle with the precision Lilja barrel also wears a stock Bushmaster trigger group circa 1994.
 
Rockriver!!!

$120 is cheaper the buying 3 or 4 set even if you could find them at $40. each. If you feel comfortable with your gunsmithing skills it's very do able with a little research info. But like Bart said... just work it some and it will break in.
 
For a milspec type single stage trigger at a fair price you might want to give the Spike's Battle NiB coated FCG a look.

http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/st-battle-trigger-set-p-425.html


Also, I like the LWRC NiB coated single stage FCG:

http://www.lwrci.com/p-39-enhanced-fire-control-group-assembly.aspx

I have one of each. The pull weight on the Spikes is about 6#. The LWRC is about 6 1/2#. I like the LWRC a bit better.

For a range rifle either could be reduced to about 4# using the JP Rifles "yellow" spring set.

Totally agree with this about the LWRC trigger - very impressed, best stock trigger I have ever used (out of over 10). I was however, quite disappointed with the Spikes Battle Trigger - The coating is nice, but I feel they are skimping on the underlying parts, whereas LWRC are ensuring the quality control is there. My Spikes trigger was worse than at least 4 or 5 of my 10 or so stock ones. LWRC aside as the clear front runner, I have had pretty good luck with the CMT(Stag) triggers; they seem pretty consistent, in my experience and are at least not gritty.

There seems to be a wave of noise across the internet lately that says you absolutely *MUST* have a $200 trigger to be accurate. I feel that if instead folks just got out and practiced enough, a lot of people would be very surprised (pleasantly so) as to how well you can do with a nice stock trigger.
 
If there was any part that I wouldn't recommend, it'd be my BCM trigger. It's the only thing on my carbine that I don't like. I suppose that it's meant to be a little stiff, but dang that thing is stiff. I'm going to look into the LWRC for mine.
 
I don't have experience with some of the others, but the Geissele SSA absolutely rocks. I have one on my Noveske and will not be going back to a stock trigger. Noveske will install one from the factory if you specify it when ordering one of their guns.

The nice thing about it, in addition to the feel, is that it stays rock-solid even if I rip a couple hundred rounds off in a shorter period of time.
 
So I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Geissele SSA. Considering the multiple purposes that my rifle serves, I think it's the setup that would best serve me. Thanks for all the input and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

-Marcos
 
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