Pistol powder is FAST. It's not at all like rifle.
We know from Revolver shooting that pistol powder will typically fully "burn" before the bullet passes through the forcing cone. With autoloaders, that fast powder is burnt before that bullet is a half inch from the casing. (The PRESSURE keeps acting on the projectile longer on a longer barrel; but the powder is DONE).
The duration of the imparted momentum varies slightly by powder, but it don't take long. The momentum (work) is largely done in a very brief period of time, so powder has less effect on recoil than with rifles (you can FEEL the difference in powder burn rates on rifles, even on different powders that give approx the same pressure peak, if you shoot magnums; the curve happens over a longer duration).
Pistols, though, tend to give everything they're going to give to you all at once in a sharp slap.
So pushing out a lighter bullet with a heavier powder charge at higher velocity imparts more "work" to your hand, than a lower powder charge pushing out a heavier bullet. Velocity takes more work to build up (10% more powder might give 3-5% more velocity, but recoil is going to be much harder).
I've been reading up about this because I have a couple of newer revolvers that I found I'm somewhat recoil sensitive to (357 and 44 mag, to be precise....)
I plan on honing in on a load I can comfortably fire but imparts the maximum energy I can stand, for self defense loads in the 357. The 44 mag, I need to find something I can shoot all day, without breaking myself, for practice, and save the filling-rattling loads for hunting.
Same basic premise.
BTW, I have my USPSA 9mm loads dialed in at a power factor of 126.5, just comfortably enough above the minimum power factor threshhold to pass chrono on a cold day, while giving me the best split times.