Lube for Cap and Ball Mechansims, Cylinder Pin...

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Oyeboten

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Trying to remember prior mentions...


What should one use for lubing the Cylinder Pin and internals on Cap and Ball Revolvers?
 
This isn't a high tech thing.
For me it's gun oil inside the frame, and T/C bore butter on the axle, as well as over each ball. No Bore Butter on hand? Use Crisco. Any animal fat based grease that isn't hard nor so soft it runs off.
Wheel bearing grease on the axle for long term storage, animal fats will get rancid and rust could result.
My 2 Cents.
 
There's also Wonderlube 1000, it's the same lube they use on the Wonder wads and is supposed to be good for waterproofing the wood also. It tolerates higher temps than crisco.
 
I was in a pickle over the summer and based on the BP sticky thread at the top of the forum I used Canola oil because it was what I had and I was in a pinch for time. This worked out just fine for day use and short term storage between shooting days of around a month to 6 weeks. It left the BP residue so soft and oily that there were drooping spider webs of oily fouling residue in the barrel when I checked. And even after 25 shots per revolver (5 CAS stages) the cylinders were still turning easily on my 1858 Remmies. Oh, and since the balls were seating so low in the cylinder I was using a drop or two of the Canola over the balls instead of Crisco or anything else since it would have taken quite the wad to get the ball properly sealed in. The oil would wick around and seal off the ball in a lovely manner for this use.

I'll have to see how this regimen performs on the bix arbor of the open top Colt Navy I've got.

I recently found and bought a big can of Ballistol since everyone here raves about it so much. This will be my oil of choice for over the winter for storage. And it looks like it'll do everything else too including cure the H1N1 virus if I get it. You guys ever read the back of that can! ? ! ? ! ? They sure ain't modest folk that produce that stuff ! ! ! ! :D
 
Thanks everyone...


BCRider, I like the idea of using a drop of Canola over low-sitting Bullets.


Dragoon cleaned up effortlessly from Sunday's shooting.


The Cylinder-Sealer/Bore-Butter I made had left a fine coating on everything.
 
I use Ballistol on the cylinder pin in the Remingtons and my home made grease cookies on the arbor of my open tops. Some of the guys use Pam cooking spray with great results.
 
I made some Grease-wads tonight...didn't have any Felt, so, I used some Terrycloth.


Had a 2 inch wide strip...melted Bee's Wax and Olive Oil in an empty, washed-put, low Cat food Can...saturated the Cloth...set it on a sheet of Typing Paper...let it cool...took a Gasket Punch of about the right size, and punched out about fifty Wads.


Found a Brass Tube of a size I can use for making Paper Carridges...so...will try that soon..!

Wads are about .458-ish...Tube, OD, about 450...tube slips into the Cylinder bores easily...so...a form for the Rolling Papers...Wad and Ball on the end...
 
After cleaning I use olive oil, but it don't prevent rust very well in a moist environment. Ballistol is way better, but I can't stand the smell...

During shooting I use a lube pill between the powder and ball.
Lube pills are made of 50/50 crisco/beeswax. Some use lard/beeswax.
Do a search, lots of info on THR regarding lubepills.

When using them you don't need anything else, I can keep on shooting all day if I wanted to without jamming the cylinder or anything else. The lube pills keep your gun lubed during your shooting session.
The barrel will stay almost perfectly clean, so no swabbing required either.

Even use lube pills in the 45-70 cartridge of my BFR revolver, which is intended to work on smokeless. I shoot it with blackpowder and even the close tolerance fit of a BFR in combination with BP presents no problems when using lubepills.

Did I mention lubepills are great? :)

Hildo
 
At the range, I use Crisco over the balls, and lately I've been using the vegetable spray PAM over (or under) the balls. It works great on some guns, not so great on others. The Paterson and the Remingtons works great with PAM on the cylinder pin. The Colts work well with PAM but the Ruger and the Walker don't seem to like the stuff.
When I make under-the-ball lube pills of beeswax, paraffin, Bore Butter, etc, I mix it up and pour it down the barrel of the gun while it's hot (the other end of the barrel is blocked.) I let the mixture harden in the barrel, then push it out in a lube stick. At the range I cut the pills from the stick as I need them. Perfect fit for that particular gun.
For storage of my original guns, I use gun oil on the internals. In the repros I use Bore Butter.

S4020211.gif
 
Why?

Howdy Pohill,

I think you were the person that set me off on the whole lubepill idea, couple of years ago, or maybe it was someone else at that time. My brain can't remember exactly but you were involved too.

Pre-cut lubesticks the kitchen, and take them to the range in a jar. Less work at the range and easier to carry. Only if its real warm they start to stick a little and some shaking is required or more beeswax should be added to harden them up.

Now a question... I know you know a lubepill under the bullet works better then lube op top of the bullet. Why would you choose to use crisco over the ball on the range?

Hildo

20070323WalkerBarrelA.jpg

Almost shiny clean. Walker barrel after 40 shots with 54 grains Swiss BP.

20080307_dikke%20kogelvetpillen.jpg

Pre-cut lubepills
 
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Why would you choose to use crisco over the ball on the range?
Crisco is cheap and easy (lube pills are much better but they take some time to make).
Rifle (Wayne) makes (and sells at a good price) the best lube pills...well, his wife does.
I really like PAM over or under the balls (do not make that statement at a crowded gun range).
 
See Post #5 and call or PM him [rifle]:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=272941&highlight=mutton+wads

I use the "Junk Yard Dog Lube Pills" (my wife sells them) and get 200 shots with Colts or Remingtons with no barrel or chamber fouling and don't need to get a few drops of solvent on the front cylinder around the arbor for lots of shots. The lube pills blast out of the cylinder gap and splash wax/lube on the arbors and keeps powder fouling out for a long time. Anywhoooo....a days shooting fer me usually is 200+ shots and the guns just keep going and going and going like the Energizer Bunny. The recipe fer the Lube Pills if ya want to make yer own and not buy them from Junk Yard Dog (1-740-824-5566) is "equal parts of bees wax,paraffin wax,mutton tallow.....
 
I use Slick 50 Teflon grease to lube the cylinder pin, pawl, and other lockwork parts on my C&B revolvers. It holds the fouling so it can be easily cleaned away by wiping.
 
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