M38 trigger improvement

[Roudy]

Someone suggested this web site to me regarding improving the trigger on my M38 MN.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/improvingm44carbines/index.asp

Yesterday I performed the changes as described in the article and found that it made a VAST improvement in trigger pull weight and smoothness. I still need to do a little more fine polishing but I would highly recommend this process to anyone with a lousy trigger pull on a Mosin Nagant. I takes longer to read the article than actually do the work.

One benefit is that it does not change the appearance of the rifle, just makes it work better.

 

[dm1333]

I've also done that mod with the same results. Right now just a .026 and 004 shim but a big improvement.

 

[Roudy]

DM133.....the instructions at the web site mentioned does not call for any shims (unless I just missed it). I too tried several thicknesses of shims under the trigger spring but found it lacking. Thinning the trigger spring and polishing the surfaces did make the trigger much lighter and smoother.

I also have a long barreled M38 and a Finnish Mosin Nagant. The Finnish model has a superb trigger, but the design of the trigger is different. The longer barreled M38 has a very long, but smooth and relatively light trigger...same design as the trigger that I modified.

Have them all apart in the basement right now trying to figure out why the trigger pulls are so different. Wonder if the Finnish model trigger will work in the other MNs?

Roudy

 

[mandrake]

Hey,

Someone gave you the right string but wrong yo-yo, try:

Http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/mb/surplusrifle?forum=4871

 

[dm1333]

Roudy,
I think we were looking at two different articles on the same website. If I remember correctly the instructions you used also talked about lightening up the firing pin spring.
Do you have any other plans for the gun? I mounted a scout scope on a Darrels Mount today and was able to get the windage sighted in. I managed to shoot the mount loose in the vertical plane so I could not get the elevation dialed in. Hopefully later in the week it will stop raining and I can get the gun sighted in. If it shoots fairly accurately I am going to buy a synthetic stock and polish the trigger up using the mods you have tried, otherwise I will leave it as is.

Don

 

[Roudy]

DM1333,

I have also added a scope mount over the receiver and modified the bolt to a turned down version. Got the scope mount and bolt modification in a kit some time ago. If I had it to do over I think I would have tried the forward mount scope like you have first, mine is OK but I had to modified the bolt such that it can't be returned to original condition.

Thinning the spring down works well, also shortening the firing pin spring lets the bolt work easier. Other than that I've only polished the trigger bearing surfaces with some 600 or 800 grit sand paper...also seems to help.

I did some glass bedding too. When I put the action in the synthetic stock it would rock back and forth, now it doesn't. Hope to get to the range soon to see what improvement in group size all this has made.

 

[dm1333]

While taking a look at my rifle while cleaning it I noticed that the scope mount was not in alignment with the bore The rear leaf mount is somehow not aligned with the bore meaning I need to find a set of windage adjustable rings now. Since I'm scoping the TC Classic I just bought the rings I have should work fine for that. If you ever decide to go to a scope mount I recommend a Darrels Scout Mount. I called Mr. Harrison today because the mount I bought was not fitting correctly. He had me check a few things over the phone to make sure that I did have the correct mount, which I did, and said that every once in a while he has seen this problem and that he would be happy to refund my money. I ended up filing some metal off the front of the mount so that it would fit. He was very patient and helpful and the mount is nicely made. I think that once I get past my oddball rear sight problems I'm going to be even happier with the mount and scope. BTW, I tried the coke can shim method just to lighten the trigger which was so bad I could barely keep 6 inch groups at 50 yards offhand. I'm still not happy with the trigger but the groups are much tighter and I think she has some potential after all. Even if the gun never shoots less than 3 MOA it has been fun to work on.

 

[dm1333]

Roudy, you were right about polishing the trigger vs. the shims

I just finished that today, the trigger is still a little heavy but VERY smooth. I ran out of time and will have to finish up the spring mods tomorrow. What kind of stock did you put yours in? I am thinking about an ATI. I have heard that Boyds makes a nice stock for the Nagants but it would be too nice for my Bubba Scout!

Hopefully on Thursday I can get to the gravel pit and re zero the scope and see how all of this has worked out.

Don

 

[Roudy]

dm1333, Glad you like the trigger! I'm thinking about thinning my trigger spring down a little more, it's now on the thick side of the tolerance. Might make it a little lighter. Can't remember the brand name of the stock I have, but it's black and not wood.

I have the same issue with the scope base being off-center and have shimmed it straight with little slivers of Coke cans....not the best thing in the world. Let me know if you find a set of adjustable rings, I need a pair.

I did the first round of glass bedding the action, need to do a little more touchup yet.

What ever stock trips your trigger is the right one for you. On an SKS with really ugly wood a couple coats of flat black paint made a huge improvement. If you are intending to get rid of the issue stock, give it a couple coats of flat black paint before spending the money on a new stock...who knows, you might like it!

 

[dm1333]

I had to grind metal off of one side of the mount but was able to get it in line with the bore. I haven't thinned the trigger spring yet because I can't find my calipers and I was at work way too late so I haven't played with the bolt yet either. Tomorrow I am going to work on the firing pin spring and polish up the bolt if it needs it, then take the gun out and sight it in. The sight of me in the shop at work muttering to myself and working on a rifle is starting to worry some people!

 

[Davo]

I wonder how thinning down the sear spring, AND adding shims would work out. Seems like it would cut down both pull, and creep. The smoothnes would be good too.