Made the jump to annealing.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was doing 7.62x39. Trying to solve my soot issue. I just my the bird cage back on the rifle. I try to be considerate to the person next to me. But i guess you can't always do that. 223 i find so much of it no need to anneal.
 
This sounds ok to me. I dim the lights so I can see the color change better. I'd be surprised if Starline brass is not annealed at the factory.
I annealed some scrap brass for practice. I heated them up until they just started to glow at the necks. I put the brass in a socket and rotated them with a drill slowly. I found out Starline brass is not annealed at the factory.
 
I was doing 7.62x39. Trying to solve my soot issue. I just my the bird cage back on the rifle. I try to be considerate to the person next to me. But i guess you can't always do that. 223 i find so much of it no need to anneal.
It may just be a thing when running 7.62x39 chamber with 308 bullets and having a few extra thousands of clearance around the neck.
If running fired and resized brass could be about a 17 on a webber hardness tester. Factory brass will be about a 12 or 13. Dead soft brass sized will be about a 12. So it should fire from easier.
 
I was doing 7.62x39. Trying to solve my soot issue. I just my the bird cage back on the rifle. I try to be considerate to the person next to me. But i guess you can't always do that. 223 i find so much of it no need to anneal.
Well with a torch method like your using 30-30 cases are done in 4 seconds. Even at that I had a case or two leach zink. I've seen a ton of cracked shoulders from excessive sizing so I do them the first time I load range pickups. Winchester seems to Crack the most, I've been sad more than a few times on initial inspection out of the wet tumbler.
 
All objective testing on flame based, handheld annealing methods have shown ridiculous inconsistencies in results. All objective science around “color change” and “glow” based methods proves both to be a waste of time, neither to be based on any factual science.

Why people keep chasing those particular rabbits is beyond me.

Buy some tempilaq, run a looping timer based on the tempilaq, or better still, get a turntable or hopper annealer with speed control. Better still, get into an induction annealer. But “heating in a socket until it glows” is the annealing video equivalent of watching Steve-O ride a shopping cart into a curb at 20mph.
 
Last edited:
I do them by hand, 7-10 seconds drop em into a pan of water.
Not the most accurate method but it minimizes neck/shoulder cracks.


I've never understood this process. If you are getting the neck to 750 degrees to anneal it, the rest of the case has to be at the least 3-4 hundred degrees. I don't see how a person is going to hold a 300 degree piece of metal in their fingers.
 
I've never understood this process. If you are getting the neck to 750 degrees to anneal it, the rest of the case has to be at the least 3-4 hundred degrees. I don't see how a person is going to hold a 300 degree piece of metal in their fingers.
The ideal situation is you use a great source powerful enough to quickly get the heat where you want it and then off before it can effectively spread to undesired parts of the case.
 
The ideal situation is you use a great source powerful enough to quickly get the heat where you want it and then off before it can effectively spread to undesired parts of the case.[/

I can understand that. I just know that there's no way in hades I'm able to handle the brass right after my annealer kicks them out. I must have delicate fingers. :)
 
I've never understood this process. If you are getting the neck to 750 degrees to anneal it, the rest of the case has to be at the least 3-4 hundred degrees. I don't see how a person is going to hold a 300 degree piece of metal in their fingers.
MAP gas, just till i got kinda uncomfortable........
Which is too long....and i forgot to count, so cant give a time.

Crushed the neck with finger pressure. This is wby/norma brass, win would not have crushed, but would have been pretty malleable.

PXL_20230406_035732177.jpg PXL_20230406_035733919.jpg PXL_20230406_035736893.jpg
 
I use the less costly Tempilstik to setup a baseline. The only reason I anneal at all is to increase the brass lifetime, so the socket/drill method is all the consistency I need. I'm not going for competitive match grade neck tension.

All objective testing on flame based, handheld annealing methods have shown ridiculous inconsistencies in results. All objective science around “color change” and “glow” based methods proves both to be a waste of time, neither to be based on any factual science.

Why people keep chasing those particular rabbits is beyond me.

Buy some tempilaq, run a looping timer based on the tempilaq, or better still, get a turntable or hopper annealer with speed control. Better still, get into an induction annealer. But “heating in a socket until it glows” is the annealing video equivalent of watching Steve-O ride a shopping cart into a curb at 20mph.
460S&W Annealed Cases 210703.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top