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Moly resin coating

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by CSballer89, Mar 1, 2012.

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  1. CSballer89

    CSballer89 Member

    Jul 26, 2009
    I'm looking to put a coat of moly resin on my M&P 15 lower receiver. I have a few questions if anybody has done this before;
    My Rifle has the white M&P 15 logo on the right side of the magazine well. It is engraved and painted. Should I try and remove this paint before applying the Moly resin?
    Also, For just a lower receiver, how many ounces should I expect to use? How many coats should I apply?
    Finally, how long and how hot should it be in the oven?
  2. Old Dog Man

    Old Dog Man Member

    Jan 10, 2012

    You should strip all the finish from the unit, the epoxy moly coating will probanly react with the original finish and will orange-peel. Bead blasting will give it a clean toothed surface to bond with. The manufacturor of your moly-coat should give the temp. and time to bake it on. Al
  3. jay21

    jay21 Member

    Jun 21, 2008
    San Tan Valley, AZ
    When you order "moly resin" they include pretty detailed instructions. Follow them and you will be fine. Setting up your airbrush pattern is the hardest part
  4. Tirod

    Tirod Member

    May 24, 2008
    SW MO
    I'm going to strongly discourage "stripping the finish." That basically amounts to removing the hard coat anodizing and scraping it back to bare aluminum.

    Commercial industry standard for overcoats on aluminum substrate is apply anodizing as the primer to the metal surface, then apply color coats. Anodizing is the best primer for aluminum bar none. If it's HCIII rated, so much the better, as it won't peel off. Whatever goes on top has a much better grip because corrosion or surface adhesion won't be compromised by the natural tendency of aluminum to oxidize, which is nearly as bad as steel.

    Another advantage is that any abrasion that does get thru the overcoat still has to penetrate the hardcoat, which is usually the toughest possible finish developed for aluminum ever. After all, that's what is used as is and issued for service. No other overcoat has yet replaced it for durability or longevity.

    And, it saves a lot of work getting something off that isn't made to be taken off easily.

    Best of both worlds, always leave anodizing on the surface. It IS the primer.
  5. adelbridge

    adelbridge Member

    Jan 30, 2012
    you are going to hurt the resale value of your gun unless the original finish is already trashed.
  6. dprice3844444

    dprice3844444 member

    Feb 26, 2011
    se fla i love claymores 01/sot
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