THE DARK KNIGHT
Member
IMO if it withstood WW2 I don't think it'll have much trouble deer hunting.
Mosin Nagant for foul weather hunting
- Thread starter Dr T
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inclinebench
Member
I bought an M38 for foul weather deer hunting. I just got it this past spring, and I couldnt help myself, I stripped it and refinshed it. Now it looks pretty nice, but resides behind the seat of my truck. If the weather looks foul on my way to go hunting, I will always have a gun with me that I wont mind toting around in the rain and snow.
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Dr T
Member
Stock crack repair
I found my shooter, a M39 built on an 1898 Sestroretsk receiver. The bluing is a bit rough, but the action is smooth and I can live with the trigger.
The only problems are some small cracks in the stock.
There is one on each side and they appear to be symmetrical. I picked up some Hot Stuff from Brownells to use since it is claimed that it will wick into the crack.
Does anyone have any experience in using this? Should I put it all along the length of the crack (inside the inletting and outside on the finished surface)? What sort of surface preparation do I need to do?
Thanks.
I found my shooter, a M39 built on an 1898 Sestroretsk receiver. The bluing is a bit rough, but the action is smooth and I can live with the trigger.
The only problems are some small cracks in the stock.
There is one on each side and they appear to be symmetrical. I picked up some Hot Stuff from Brownells to use since it is claimed that it will wick into the crack.
Does anyone have any experience in using this? Should I put it all along the length of the crack (inside the inletting and outside on the finished surface)? What sort of surface preparation do I need to do?
Thanks.
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Ignition Override
Member
Both of my MN 44s had decent bores but with the oldest (50s) Bulgarian ammo, the groups were very big at 50 yards. Most of that was my fault.
My experienced (middle-aged) buddies and others have better luck with surplus Czech or maybe Polish ammo etc, especially in the wicked SVT-40.
Dr T:
I like your list of reasons. What a shame that both Mausers and MNs have no original aperture sights like any Lee-Enfield #4
etc.
My experienced (middle-aged) buddies and others have better luck with surplus Czech or maybe Polish ammo etc, especially in the wicked SVT-40.
Dr T:
I like your list of reasons. What a shame that both Mausers and MNs have no original aperture sights like any Lee-Enfield #4
etc.
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Cosmoline
Member
I've repaired some M39 cracks with gorilla glue. Never used hot stuff. GG tends to fill out the crack and holds very well, but leaves a visible line. The big problem with the wood is the possibility that cosmoline infiltrated the crack at some point, which will make it very difficult for any epoxy to hold. You can try to flush it out if the crack is loose enough.
Is it moving at all now, or is it still tight? Hopefully tight. If so I wouldn't try to do anything inside it. In fact you could just sink a threaded brass rod through to lock the cracks down and assist penetration of the glue. Often you'll see a wrap, though I've never had to go that far.
Or you can just pick up a fresh stock from GB or the forums. They're not too expensive.
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24kshooter
Member
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- Apr 3, 2005
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- 141
I would consider the M38 carbine length action. - but as others have suggested hunting in the Rocky Mountains means you may be taking a 300 yard shot or climbing up and down steep terrain all day. A Mosin is definately not built to excell at this type of hunting.
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Dr T
Member
The crack is very tight. I have not pulled the action out of the stock yet for cleaning, but there is no apparent flex in the stock with the action in place (I can't spread it). I suspect that the tang may be bearing on the rear end of the inletting (which may have allowed recoil to cause the crack in the first place) and I will need to relieve the contact point a little.
I got the Hot Stuff CN after reading a discussion (I think on the Brownells site) that it will wick into the crack (like solder into a pipe joint). It should need no clamping. In any case, the suggestion was to clamp BEFORE gluing the edge of the joint and let the glue wick in. It is supposed to set in 5 seconds. In any case, the Hot Stuff offers a quick and easy fix. If it does not work out, then I can look at the other options.
I may acquire another Mosin Nagant at some point. In that case I will be looking for a post WWII Polish. This one is a bit heavy (on a par with some other things); but it is a special use gun: Snowfall, limited visibility, anticipated shots under 150 yards, hunting hide (ground blind) not tremendously far from the road, little cart for packing in and out. It is a not a run up the mountain gun. I have 7-08 that weighs under 7 pounds with scope and ammo for that.
There were several things that were appealing about this gun:
1. It is an antique (with a 1898 action--same year as my Krag) and no FFL was required for shipping it directly to me.
2. The action was made in Imperial Russia (Pre-Revolution) and was untouched by Red Hands--at least during manufacture).
3. The action was converted to the M39 in 1944 and it has an adjustable (for windage) front sight.
4. The stock has a nice patina.
I got the Hot Stuff CN after reading a discussion (I think on the Brownells site) that it will wick into the crack (like solder into a pipe joint). It should need no clamping. In any case, the suggestion was to clamp BEFORE gluing the edge of the joint and let the glue wick in. It is supposed to set in 5 seconds. In any case, the Hot Stuff offers a quick and easy fix. If it does not work out, then I can look at the other options.
I may acquire another Mosin Nagant at some point. In that case I will be looking for a post WWII Polish. This one is a bit heavy (on a par with some other things); but it is a special use gun: Snowfall, limited visibility, anticipated shots under 150 yards, hunting hide (ground blind) not tremendously far from the road, little cart for packing in and out. It is a not a run up the mountain gun. I have 7-08 that weighs under 7 pounds with scope and ammo for that.
There were several things that were appealing about this gun:
1. It is an antique (with a 1898 action--same year as my Krag) and no FFL was required for shipping it directly to me.
2. The action was made in Imperial Russia (Pre-Revolution) and was untouched by Red Hands--at least during manufacture).
3. The action was converted to the M39 in 1944 and it has an adjustable (for windage) front sight.
4. The stock has a nice patina.
Cosmoline
Member
If you do use the wicking epoxy be sure to post results. That's a nasty crack in some respects because it could suddenly give under a fall and take the whole back side of the stock off. I'd personally add a dowel or rod of some sort with the glue to ensure a tight bond, given the critical location of the cracks.
Makes you wonder who's head got smacked.
Makes you wonder who's head got smacked.
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Dr T
Member
Will do. In the meantime, there is a paragraph on this web page about a nastier crack:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=...___Sanding_the_Stock_and_Fitting_a_Recoil_Pad
The only other item I need is some nail polish remover (acetone) for the clean up. I will have to see what my wife and daughter have on hand that I can borrow.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=...___Sanding_the_Stock_and_Fitting_a_Recoil_Pad
The only other item I need is some nail polish remover (acetone) for the clean up. I will have to see what my wife and daughter have on hand that I can borrow.
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Dr T
Member
The Hot Stuff is as thin as water. The term bead has to be taken loosely since it will run.
The Hot Stuff is in a sealed container, and you have to clip the end. Take care that you clip the smallest hole possible, or you will have a lot of excess CN running around (like I did. There is a reason I don't do this for a living).
After disassembling the rifle and degreasing the crack with brake cleaner and letting it dry, I spread the stock slightly and ran a bead along the edge. When I spread the crack, the glue wicked right in--so I did it a couple of more times. I also put glue along the crack on the inside. After letting the glue set while I gave the rifle a badly needed cleaning, the stock crack appears to be glued closed with no more give.
I will find out at the range.
When I disassembled the old girl, it looked like she had been given a roll (or at least a role) on a sandy beach. There was sand mixed with oil and cosmoline everywhere. I elected to handle this with brute force: I had a can of WD-40 with the long, thin nozzle, and I used a good part of it to blow the junk out of the triigger assembly and ejector. I disassembled the bolt (but did not take the firing pin out and hosed it down with WD-40.
I used an electric drill, a 410 brush and a couple of 410 swabs to clean the chamber (first, dip the brush in Hoppes 9 and run the brush around in the chamber for 20 or 30 seconds, then dip a swab in no. 9 and run it around in the chamber for 20 or 30 seconds, then use the dry swab on the drill for about 10 seconds to dry.
I then reassembled everything, putting a small dot of gun grease on the sear.
Other than the little ant tracks left by the over run of Hot Stuff on the stock, the gun looks a lot better, and the action--while a little stiff compared to a modern bolt action--is fairly smooth.
I will find out how well everything works when I take it to the range (with luck, tomorrow).
The Hot Stuff is in a sealed container, and you have to clip the end. Take care that you clip the smallest hole possible, or you will have a lot of excess CN running around (like I did. There is a reason I don't do this for a living).
After disassembling the rifle and degreasing the crack with brake cleaner and letting it dry, I spread the stock slightly and ran a bead along the edge. When I spread the crack, the glue wicked right in--so I did it a couple of more times. I also put glue along the crack on the inside. After letting the glue set while I gave the rifle a badly needed cleaning, the stock crack appears to be glued closed with no more give.
I will find out at the range.
When I disassembled the old girl, it looked like she had been given a roll (or at least a role) on a sandy beach. There was sand mixed with oil and cosmoline everywhere. I elected to handle this with brute force: I had a can of WD-40 with the long, thin nozzle, and I used a good part of it to blow the junk out of the triigger assembly and ejector. I disassembled the bolt (but did not take the firing pin out and hosed it down with WD-40.
I used an electric drill, a 410 brush and a couple of 410 swabs to clean the chamber (first, dip the brush in Hoppes 9 and run the brush around in the chamber for 20 or 30 seconds, then dip a swab in no. 9 and run it around in the chamber for 20 or 30 seconds, then use the dry swab on the drill for about 10 seconds to dry.
I then reassembled everything, putting a small dot of gun grease on the sear.
Other than the little ant tracks left by the over run of Hot Stuff on the stock, the gun looks a lot better, and the action--while a little stiff compared to a modern bolt action--is fairly smooth.
I will find out how well everything works when I take it to the range (with luck, tomorrow).
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