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My new BSA CF2 6.5x55

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by dak0ta, May 4, 2012.

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  1. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    Birmingham Small Arms CF2 in 6.5x55

    She's in good functioning condition just needs some TLC to get her back to the glory days of Empire. :p

    The ejector is a little weak spitting out cartridges (not empty cases), is that normal? I'm used to the fixed ejector on Mausers throwing them out a few feet. Otherwise, other questions are, is the diamond on the grip cap supposed to be white? Mine's black. Also, there are some handling marks and dings here and there, a little chip on the rosewood fore-end cap on the right side. The bolt cycles very smoothly and feeds fine. Rifle is very well balanced for an 8lb gun! Trigger.. wow.. amazing! So light it's incredible, better than my Savage Accu-Trigger. The safety is positive and easy to use. Magazine release functions too.

    There's a lot of grease in this gun and some dirt and grime. I'm not sure about the history of this gun, whether it was used and stored away or what. But the mag plate has lots of grease as well as the mag well. Bore is excellent!

    Pictures (please tell me about the roll marks)

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  2. valnar

    valnar Member

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    I clicked on this thread because of the 6.5x55. 'Never heard of Birmingham Small Arms. Looks nice.
     
  3. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    BSA was a firearms manufacture in the Gun Quarter of Birmingham, England in the West Midlands.

    They manufactured the Lee Enfield No.1 Mk III, No.4 MkI and II battle rifles of Empire.
     
  4. Float Pilot

    Float Pilot Member

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    Wow.... I always liked BSA made rifles and never saw one in 6.5x55mm... That rifle should clean up real nice with some TLC. It has the look of a JP Sauer action. I was looking for an overall photo, But I got the idea.
    Did you find a model number anyplace on the rifle? It looks like a CF2 which they started to make around 1972 and I think they continued up until the late 1980s.
    Most of those other marks are the required British proof marks.
    I wonder what the rifling twist rate is?????

    BSA started making guns in 1861 or 62 I think. They also made motorcycles, Bicycles, machine parts, tools and some other items.

    I used to have a British made Matchless and Norton motorcycle. I think both were really made under BSA ownership. A lot of the parts sure were the same.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2012
  5. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    It's a 1982 BSA CF2 model.

    Twist is standard 1 in 8.5'' or something like that. 4 groove.

    It's going to be a lot of work, but she handles very nicely for her weight (haha!) and will be a joy to shoot when she is restored.
     
  6. GJgo

    GJgo Member

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    No way!! I inherited a BSA CF2 in 300 win mag, very hard to find any information on. I love the Swede, I think you scored.
     
  7. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    I think it's a score in terms of potential to be restored. Right now I am figuring out how to get it back to the way it should look.

    Probably going to get the bottom metal anodized or my local gunsmith can use the Gun-Kote Gun Blue Polish to try and match it to the remaining bluing. Do you guys find it strange that the bottom metal is scratched up but the magazine plate is fine? Either one of the two parts have been swapped, but I still find it weird that the bottom metal is the only part on the gun to exhibit wear.

    Also, anybody know how to take down the bolt for cleaning?

    And how does one steam out the dents and dings? Strip the finish off, damp cloth, steam the dents up? And then just beat the raised grain down with a wooden dowel or some sort? I don't want to sand it. Once raised, just add BLO coats hand rubbed, then finish off with paste wax?
     
  8. LJ-MosinFreak-Buck

    LJ-MosinFreak-Buck Member

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    It might be because the mag-plate is possibly blued steel. Just a thought.
     
  9. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    I think the bottom metal is an aluminum alloy. I tried a magnet there and it wouldn't stick. Any idea what the costs are to re-anodize the bottom metal?
     
  10. LJ-MosinFreak-Buck

    LJ-MosinFreak-Buck Member

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    I was going to say, try a magnet, lol. I have no clue, to be honest with you. Someone might know more than I on that subject.
     
  11. Float Pilot

    Float Pilot Member

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    Gently strip the old finish, Steam the wood with an old steam iron and damp cloth.
    Old finish will seep out of the wood pores, use denatured alcohol to wipe it away.

    As for making the grain (fibers) smooth back down, Try to find a large piece of split beef bone. Or better yet a few pieces in various sizes and shapes. In the old days they called it Boning the stock. Some boiled linseed oil on the wood and then comb it smooth with the piece of bone. I like to add Japan Dry to my linseed oil and set it next to the heater or in the sun.
     
  12. GJgo

    GJgo Member

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    I had one gunsmith tell me that the firing pin is bent in these things, and the bolt is a pain to dis / reassemble. Sounds odd.

    One question I have is, are the barrels a standard thread or a Whitworth (?) thread? I think the throat in mine may be worn out, I'd considered having a smith screw on a new barrel.
     
  13. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    Float, what does Japan Dry do?
     
  14. RPRNY

    RPRNY Member

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    Congratulations! That's going to be a real looker and an absolute classic. Matching ebony grip cap insert and forend cap is correct. Looks like it was a hooded front sight? Finding an original may be tough. You could try one from a Marlin 336 to see if it will fit and look okay. As to the ejector, if it's throwing empties, I would be happy with it. Please post up when you start beautifying! And congratulations again.
     
  15. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    Starting to work on it right now :) It's going to be a lot of work but fun. I love restoring stuff!
     
  16. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    I bought some Simple Green and man this stuff really cuts the grease and cleans the parts really nicely. Oil them up after and they look much shinier.

    I just worked on the small parts like the Weaver bases, rear sight base, action screws, magazine well to test the product and see how much work lays ahead. Doesn't seem too bad for the metal, just need to be patient.
     
  17. RPRNY

    RPRNY Member

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    I never thought to use Simple Green (which I can never help but refer to as Soylent Green) on wood. Great idea. Post pics when you make some headway - that's going to be a beauty of a rifle.
     
  18. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    I haven't used it on the stock, but it says not to use SG on unfinished wood. I'm going to strip the stock and highlight the grain with Alkanet Root Oil, and then BLO, and then paste wax.

    Anybody know where I can find the Williams guide rear sight slide and blade?
     
  19. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    FYI for those that own a BSA CF2. I was at my local gunsmith and he showed me how to take the bolt down. It's not too difficult.

    1) Turn the bolt shroud clockwise so it sits on the top of the bolt body, not in the notches. Do not over turn it or else you'll get stuck, just enough so it sits out of the 'cocked' groove. This will align the holes in the bolt shroud to the holes in the cocking piece of the firing pin assembly.

    2) Insert a thin punch through both holes and pull up and unscrew the assembly from the bolt body. Remove punch and bolt shroud will separate from firing pin assembly.

    3) Cocking indicator can be taken out of bolt shroud, careful as it is spring loaded.

    4) To remove firing pin from from spring/assembly, compress the firing pin spring, and slide the firing pin off. It is secured by a notch that allows it to slide into a mating surface on the spring guide. If you are familiar with the Swiss K31 rifles, it is the same concept.

    5) Completely disassembled bolt. Reverse these steps to reassemble.

    Hope that helps!
     
  20. GJgo

    GJgo Member

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    dak0ta, if you do take down your bolt could you document it with photos & post them here? That's be great to go with your description.

    P.S. Mine has all the same markings & proofs as yours, however it's also stamped Ithaca. Possibly they were an importer?
     
  21. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    Ithaca did import. Check out de Haas book on google books. He documents the history of BSA rifles in a few pages! Very good reading.

    I will try to get pics.
     
  22. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    Progress thus far: all the metal has been degreased and removed of gunk and pine needles to the best of my abilities. I didn't want to mess with the trigger assembly so I got out as much as I could in there.

    Bottom metal is at the smith being KG Gunkote'd to match the bluing. He told me it's a Zinc Alloy or 'white metal'. No worries about chipping when I get it back, as it's GK is good enough for the SEALS, it will serve me fine for my purposes. Plus it's a thin finish so it won't mess with the tolerances.

    I have the Alkanet root powder and I'm going to make up some oil today. Anybody know what's a good recipe for this?

    Next got to strip the stock, iron out the dents, and then oil her up.

    This is way too much fun.
     
  23. Phaethon

    Phaethon Member

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    How about a picture of the entire rifle? It always frustrates me when on gunbroker people take a thousand close up shots of different parts of a rifle and then never actually show the entire thing.
     
  24. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    This ain't gunbroker.

    I'll post some full photos when the rifle is completed.

    Just made up some Alkanet root oil, it looks pretty rich. Going to let it sit in the sun for a week or two.

    *Edit - smith juts called and the bottom is all done! took only 1 day!
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012
  25. dak0ta

    dak0ta Member

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    Today I stripped the stock down, ironed out the dents as much as possible, and just burnished the wood to a subtle sheen.

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