My new set-up for future Mule Deer Hunt

[Longrifle2506]

Some of you may remember that I posted a thread asking your thoughts on mounting a 50mm scope on a mule deer rifle. I mentioned that I had an older Burris Signature Series 3-12x50mm that I purchased in 1994. I paid $168 for Opti-lock ring mounts for my Sako Finnlight and the scope would not fit. So I ended up mounting a brand new Burris Signature Select 3-10x40 on the Finnlight. Well, Saturday I went to a new gun store in Louisville, KY that I had been wanting to check out; I'd been seeing the ads on TV and it looked like they had a huge gun selection; I was in the market for a 270 Win.; I had almost decided to order a Remington 700 Mountain SS in 270; but when I went to Lotus Gunworks for the first time; I saw this Sako A7 Tecomate. I saw these online when they first came out but they were not in stock anywhere yet. They only chamber the A7 Tecomate in 300 WSM, and 270 WSM; and the rifle is supposedly built to be an ultimate Whitetail rifle. Anyway, I fell in love with it and took the plunge; IT IS A 270 WSM. It had cheap aluminum bases on it; so I bought steel bases, and I was going to use a pair of Burris Signature Rings but the medium height was too high. Luckily I had a pair of older Tasco World Class Rings and they had a lower height, and the scope is absolutely perfect now, I don't have to raise my cheek up off the stock to see through it. I love it. And I was able to mount my favorite scope; the Burris Signature 3-12x50mm. I think the scope is a good choice because I read on Eastman's forum where many guys mount 6.5-10x50 scopes on their mule deer rifles. So 3-12x50 isn't bad at all. I got a Limbsaver Kodiak sling and it is supposedly the most comfortable sling available. Anyway, here it is. I love it; I can't wait to shoot it. I got Federal Premium 130 grain Trophy Bonded Tip rounds; The rifle weighs exactly 7 pounds without the scope, sling, and mounts.

270 Winchester Short Magnum



I figure since mule deer country is often wide open, and since the rifle is capable of very long shots; then the 12 power scope may be nice, and the field of view, brightness, and clarity, and contrast is just the ultimate in that scope.

What I love about the rifle; is that the bolt is like the model 75; which is push-feed with 3 lugs. It's NOT the 85 action which is controlled round feed somewhat. The barrel is 24 3/8" long, and the stock has an aluminum bedding block in it. The barrel is magnum contour; Not too skinny like many mountain rifles. The trigger breaks crisp with NO creep. It is user adjustable from 2 to 4 pounds. It feels to be 3.5 to 4 pounds right now. I may lower it by a half-pound. Oh, I get a free Sako rifle Case and shooting glasses; which is a promotion they have going on until November. The rifle is guaranteed to shoot 5 shots in 1 inch; at 100 yards. The mag won't come out by just depressing the release; you have to push up on the mag, and depress the release at the same time. This is great for preventing accidental release. The recoil pad feels awesome; it is a Pachmayr Decelerator. The bolt action is smooth. The Magazine is single stack which is supposed to provide very relieable feeding. Well, I tried to cover a lot; I sure do like the rifle; and I wanted to share with you guys.

 

[mdauben]

That's a handsome rifle, and it actually looks pretty good with that big scope on it. Good luck with your mule deer hunt this year!

 

[ar24095]

Sounds like a fine rifle. Now let us know how it shoots and most of all enjoy it.

 

[red rick]

You did good. I like it.

 

[sage5907]

Nice rifle, should work good on a big mule deer buck. I do have two comments. First, the scope looks like it is mounted so far to the rear it may whap you over the eye. Also, unless you have more money than I do for practice ammo you may want to buy a cheap low value used standard 270 to save money and keep from developing bad shooting habits. I shoot over 200 rounds a year to keep my shooting skills in good shape and I wouldn't do it with a 270 WSM. Shooter

 

[rcmodel]

First, the scope looks like it is mounted so far to the rear it may whap you over the eye.

+1 on that!!

If it hasn't hit you yet?

You haven't shot it yet!

rc

 

[shaggy430]

First, the scope looks like it is mounted so far to the rear it may whap you over the eye.

I thought the same thing.

RC must have been typing at the same time I was.

 

[BADUNAME37]

The scope does look to be rearward a bit too far for my liking. Be careful until you know how the thing recoils, no fun in having stitches over your eye.

I LOVE that rifle and scope arrangement you put together! It should be great for early-morning, sunset-shots, and any other days when it is just plain dark and cloudy or in dense woods!

Now I'm jealous.

 

[Longrifle2506]

I actually started with the scope as forward as it will go but The eye relief was not sufficient to my stock weld. What I do is, I close my eyes and bring the rifler to my shoulder. I weld my cheek to the butt stock where I feel the most natural and then I open my eyes. The scope should give me a perfect full picture at that position and if it does not I adjust it. My father taught me that way since I was a teenager. I do not have any concerns of getting smacked in the eye unless I hold the rifle very limp; and believe me, it will be TIGHT in my shoulder pocket. Thanks for all your replies I was really wanting to hear some feedback on the Set-up.

 

[rcmodel]

My father taught me that way since I was a teenager.

Thats all well and good, and works perfectly with 22's and such.

Until you have to shoot from some awkward position during a hunt with a rifle that really kicks like that one is going too.

If you want to test it?
Lay down on the floor and take up a good prone shooting position.

Then get a sight picture through the scope and pull it back into your shoulder as hard as you can.

See?


Set it so it can't hit you under any circumstances, no matter what position you might shoot it from during a hunched over bench session, or during a hunt.

Then learn where your head needs to be to see through it.
Not how you really want it to be, standing up under ideal shooting conditions.


I can GatRonTee Ya one scope cut & stitches in the eyebrow will run your shooting for a very long long time.
And your new rifle will own you from now on.

Until you get over the idea it is gonna hit you in the eye again every time you start the trigger squeeze.
And then close your eyes and jerk the shot instead!!

rc

 

[jim243]

RC and I sometimes agree and sometimes don't but he is absolutely correct you are going to get hurt on that setup (no if and or buts about it).

You need a set of medium rings to get that scope up a 1/4 inch off the barrel. You are going to get a lot of heat off that chamber and barrel. Also push your scope forward 1 inch. then find where your head should be not the other way around. Or get a scope with more eye room so you do not need to be that close.

Jim

Even this is too close and I have the scars to prove it.

 

[Longrifle2506]

I understand what you guys are trying to say about the scope being rearward, but I don't understand how scooting it forward is going to help me; because my eyeball will be 3 inches from the ocular lens regardless of where it is. If I scoot it forward then I will have to scoot my head forward. My Eye has to be X amount of distance away from that lens to get the full field of view. if I move it forward, then I will not gain any distance because I will just have to scoot my head forward to make up that same distance. If I do not scoot my head forward then I will have half of a field of view in the scope. I also don't understand why elevating it higher would help me because then I would have to raise my cheek up off of the butt stock that's why I went with the lower rings. Could you further explain? I am open to the idea of just mounting my Bushnell elite. But I would really like to make this work. I may be able to move it forward a certain amount without having to adjust my stock weld/cheek position.

 

[Longrifle2506]

I am not trying to be difficult at all, I just know that my eye has to be behind that ocular lens to see through the scope. The eye relief is most likely 3 inches on that scope and that's all it is on Bushnell's also. I have never been smacked in the eye even with my slug guns. They eye relief of 3.5 inches and recoil is a lot. I just don't see how moving the scope up or foreword will help me because: doesn't My eye have to be the same distance from the lens no matter where the scope is? If I move the scope up won't have to raise my cheek up so my eye is behind the lens? And then, won't I still be in the same amount of danger from recoil?

 

[jim243]

You can build up the stock with a cheek rest to adjust for the height.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/75...ition-carrier-5-round-fixed-stock-nylon-black

Even a 1/4 inch difference will keep the bridge of your nose or eye brow uninjured. I have to be careful with mine to keep my eye (head) not too close. Using a lower power on the scope will give you a eye relief greater than 3 inches. If it is a 3x12 use 10 power and you will see what I mean.

I shoot mostly sitting so I can do it, if however I was prone the scope would be right into my eye and would cause problems. Most scopes are adjustable on the rear objective for focus correction (each eye is different). I use this to correct the focus on the cross hairs and the front paralax adjustment for scope focus. (target)



Jim


This rifle is setup correctly with the scope 1/4 inch off the barrel for the front objective lens which is a 50 MM and the distance for eye relief is 3.5 inches. You will also note the comb on the stock.

 

[courtgreene]

you may want to consider that while it is true that your eye needs to be a certain distance from the scope, your eye also happens to be in your head, which is on a movable platform... your neck. You can lean that movable platform forward and maintain the eye's distance behind the scope. The same cannot be said about the shoulder, which absorbs recoil. by moving the scope, and your neck, there's a bigger area between what's coming back at you and what's stopping it from hitting you. think about a crush or crumple zone in a car. Smart cars are all well and good until someone hits you and there's nothing but a steering wheel to absorb the impact. I THINK that's what they're trying to say.

 

[luv2safari]

Longrifle,


It will do well in muley country.

My first deer was a mule deer here in Northern NV in 1959. I used a Weaver K-4 on a then relatively new 243 chambered Savage 99FW. With all the many rifles I used since I've never needed anything more powerful to shoot my deer than a 3-9 Leupold. That 12X is awfully handy for getting a closer look at Bambi, however. In any case, I would set it at 5-6 power for 99% of all shots I would take.

I DO like that rifle and scope and wouldn't kick it out of bed.

 

[Longrifle2506]

Can I get get by just moving it forward? I really don't want to deal with elevating it higher. I was always led to believe the closer to the barrel, the better anyway. Thanks for those who like it, and thanks for the criticism too guys. It is my first magnum rifle and I want it to work out. But I would rather keep those rings on and mount a Brushnell elite than to change rings and elevate the present scope. So I have an important question, can I get by just scooting it forward as much as possible. I think if I move it forward until the turret almost hits the front ring I could be good? Should I do this or just swap it and put the Bushnell elite 4200 2.5-10x40 on. It is not near as long and should not have issues this scope has and the objective would probably be about a quarter inch high in the bushnell

 

[Longrifle2506]

Very good way to look at it court green. I never thought of it that way and I'm sure that makes all the difference in the world. My father read the thread, and agrees with what is being said by rc and the other guy who agrees with him(cant remember name), and he was telling me that I should not worry about comfort and should move the scope forward. I am 35 years old but I always seek advice from my father because he is very knowledgeable in this sector.

 

[GJgo]

The Sako is an excellent rifle. Now I'd start saving for a Swarovski to go on top of it.

Everyone's head is different, I think you need to determine your own scope height & FOV for best results. Shoulder your rifle with your eyes closed, open your eyes, and set the scope as necessary so you're right there when you come up.

 

[henschman]

I would move the scope forward but wouldn't try to mount it higher. I agree with mounting scopes as low as possible over the bore. I don't quite know what that other poster meant about heat. It sure isn't going to damage the scope, and if he's talking about heat mirage obstructing your sight picture, you would have to fire a bunch of rounds in rapid succession for that to be an issue. That is a non-issue for deer hunting, in which you will fire 1 shot and that's it... MAYBE a follow-up to give it a quicker death if the first didn't quite do the job.

You say that you will just have to scoot your head forward on the stock if you move the scope further forward... well that is exactly what you're supposed to do for a good solid shooting position... move your head as far forward as you can on the stock. If you have your neck farther back on the stock, there is "slack" in your neck, so when the rifle's recoil pushes your shoulder back, Newton's 2nd law takes over and your head stays still while your rifle and your shoulder travel rearward. And that is how you wind up with scope eye. If you "turkey neck" as far forward as you can when you shoot, there is no slack in your neck and your whole upper body recoils as a unit. It makes handling the recoil much nicer.

On field rifles, I always set eye relief from prone with my head all turkey-necked out on the stock. Try the "turkey neck" technique next time you go shooting and I bet you will like it.

 

[wyohome]

I have never shot a mulie with my scope set higher than 7x. That allows for a greater eye relief, plus a higher power seem to show the heat waves too much for my old eyes.

 

[Longrifle2506]

Thank you henchman, you really explained it to where I understand now. My dad complemented your explanation as well. He said he's never heard anybody explain it that way and he said we have never had to worry about this because we've always just worried about comfort shooting low recoiling centerfire's. He reminded me that it's a different game when you step up into a magnum rifle and he said that you said it best. Thank you very much I love this forum.

 

[Longrifle2506]

I want to thank RC and Jim as well, thank you for bringing to my attention the mount job. This is my first magnum rifle and I'm glad I posted this thread and I'm glad you guys replied. I'm going to scoot it forward and if I don't like the looks of it then I will mount the Bushnell elite.

 

[Longrifle2506]

The Bushnell mounted up perfect; the turret is right in the middle in between the rings and the ocular is a lot more forward; when I mount the rifle to my shoulder; I'm to the rear outside edge of the "eye box" because I have to stretch my neck forward now to get perfect full view in the Scope. The scope is an ELite 4200 2.5-10x40; I'm happy with it; I'm glad I gain the rainguard coating and the Optics are just as good. I hope this set-up is a winner. Here is the scope. I think the Elite actually looks better and more in proportion with the rifle/receiver/action. Here is a couple of pics.

 

[sage5907]

That looks a lot better. You still have room under the scope to go to lower mounts if needed to support your cheek better. Good job. Shooter