Need guidance/ factual info on Mosin-Nagant 91/30s

Status
Not open for further replies.
All y'all been exceedingly generous with your time, experience, and offers of help... i thank you again.
Regarding the sights/ shooting high bit: wouldn't switching to heavier/ slower ammunition help in this regard? seems i can get SP hunting ammo from 150-203 grains.
also, since i can upgrade as i get the money, (PURISTS AVERT YOUR EYES, BUBBA ALERT), the first change i'd consider might be a low power LER or pistol scope in the forward scout position. Has anyone tried this on their MNs? i've seen mounts that fit into the dovetail for the rear sight assembly... thoughts/ suggestions? (obviously, this entails no longer having irons to shoot over).
 
I have used a simmons pro pistol 4 on the dovetail with a solid airgun mount. It works well and is more inline with the stock the the mounts that replace the sight leaf.
 
I have one that I mounted a 2-7x LER scope on. It's plenty accurate for shooting deer at 100 yards. As was said above, it's a long heavy rifle. The scope works fine when there's enough light, but with LER scopes, you can't see much when it starts getting dark.

I have been thinking about selling it, so if you're anywhere near Austin, you can get a feel for it and we can take it to the range if you are interested in buying it.
 
Scott,

There is not enough velocity change between the 150 and 200 grain loads to change the point of impact more than a fraction of an inch at 100 yards. Gravity is still a constant (60fps per second).

I have heard excellent reports of heavy cast or jacketed bullets pushed from 1500fps to 2000fps. Powders of choice are various pistol powders (for cast!) or Trail Boss.

Other than that, sight modification is essential.

Regards,

Josh
 
Have several of the "flame throwers" and one standing in a corner still waiting to be fired. Nothing wrong with the old war horses. I like the "light ball" much better than the heavy stuff. Have a few reloaded with 150 gn soft tip hunting rds. Do not think anyone mentioned this--slug your bore as some of them go as large as .313. Most are 10-12 so check each one to make sure what it is. Accuracy will improve if you shoot the proper sized boolit. I like the 44s better. That "ten foot" barrel is great but just gets in the way in a tight spot--like a tree stand.
ETA: be very sure to wear hearing protection----and anyone near you---LOL.
 
You know, the long barrel doesn't bother me. I shoot muzzleloaders and maybe that's why, but the length appeals to me.

You're right though; it takes some retraining to not smack it on stuff.

Josh
 
I've noticed my 91/30 doesn't hold an usable group. It shoots 8 - 10 moa. Infantry rifle accuracy for the soviets, I would presume. It's real fun to shoot, but it doesn't shoot well.
But there may be some way to accurize it without changing the apearance of the rifle? Is removing the top forend necessary if you float the barrel?
 
But there may be some way to accurize it without changing the apearance of the rifle? Is removing the top forend necessary if you float the barrel?
Don't float it at all. Try these-

Method 1: Find some cork sheet, like cabinet lining or something. Cut a little piece, maybe 1" square, and place it under the tip of the foreend where it'll apply upward pressure to the end of the barrel. This should tighten up groups.

Method 2: Same idea, but cut a long, thin piece of material that'll fit the entire bottom barrel channel. Place this under the barrel, then shim the screw attachment points on the receiver until the barrel lies level, then torque the screws evenly.

Edit: Just realized that it was Joshua Smith's site that I learned that second method from a while ago! All credit goes to him for coming up with it.
 
Last edited:
The easy method might give you an extra couple inches, while the slightly more labor-intensive method could easily see your groups closing by around 50-60%.

Start with the easy one and see where it gets you first.
 
Before shimming or any modifycations, try differnt ammo. Some old ammo is just made for a beat zone through a belt fed machine gun. The light ball surplus is usually accurate, and I find Russian 70's ball and 50's Czeck ball very accurate through my M-39 and other Mosins.

Some ammo is crap, but be sure its not loose action screws, flinching or any other changable condition.

Action shimming with thin metal, the Finns used brass, where the action screws pass through the stock, are to 'float' the action and barrel, as well, the left the hand guards a bit on the loose side,but being a too hot to hold in combat and too cold to touch in winter, the hand guard remains.

Triggers are tunable, and there is off the shelf stuff you can buy to make the trigger better, or follow the mods guys posting here do, either way, even a crappy trigger is useable with practise.

I preferr a longer barrel for shooting at running animals, as I swing through like shooting a shotgun at a passing goose. My M-39 has a couple more pounds than the average hunting rifle, but its rock stedy and the weight is very controlable, so accurate shooting is what results. The weight is very carrable for any grown man.

When Im shooting at a Caribou or such from 50-150 yards I hold at '6 oclock with a Caribou 's head being the dot on the "i" and dead on at 200 or so with my front sights level top edge being where the bullets gonna land. As well, over 250 yards, I use the rear sights slide, so I do not lose sight of the target with hold over.

The Mosin is NOT 'Cheap' in any manner, but quite a bargin you should take advantage of. The ammo can be bought in bulk and adding the simple step of first pouring boiling water down your barrel, scrub, boiling rinse, then your regular routine of cleaning and oiling. Boiling water drys itself, with the action left open while the rifle cools, and dissolves the salts that the priming spews down the barrel with every shot. Salts lie in the barrel attracting water, and hence rust, but water easily dissolves those salts and I never get a dark of rusty bore after routine cleaning and oiling.


If you have trouble with the bolt being hard to raise , AKA "Sticky bolt", then your chamber is dirty. Keep your chamber clean, but in a new refurrbed Mosin, the cosmoline thats in the chamber can be dryed and very hard to remove. It can also look shiney and new after a few shots, but the cosmo is something that MUST be removed........A 20 gauge brush and some solvent will srub up just great, and a chamber scrub is mandatory fopr any rifle, but "Sticky bolt" is your Mosin's way of saying "Clean me!!!"

You cant go wrong with a Mosin any more than you can with any other rifle.
The refurbs are all brought into Soviet specifycation, then slatherd in cosmo and varnish, then put away for WWIII. The Finn reworks ar noted for great triggers and sights, stocks and such. A Finnish Sniper, Simo Hayha, was the worlds highest scoreing Sniper, EVER....he use a Mosin for more than 1/2 those kills. The other top Snipers were Russian during WWII, as well as Olympic Gold being won by several nations useing the Msin is some configuration or another.

I hunt for a liveing and I use a Mosin Nagant M-39 Variation, it is a great tool.
 
My experience with the scout mount that replaces the leaf on the rear sight was not a good one on my M44. Recoil is punishing, and no matter how muck Loctite I applied, the screws would back themselves out. When the mount is loose, the scope becomes useless.

Whil I have not actually removed the rear sight entirely and installed .22 dovetail scope rings, I hear it's a much better method than the leaf replacement.

I want to get a rear ghost ring to replace the notch sight.

As far as accuracy, it's a 100+ year old design. You can expect 8-10" Moa out of the box in most cases buying an off the shelf Russian 91/30. If you really want to hunt, get a Finn.
 
Hello Vet,

I want to get a rear ghost ring to replace the notch sight.

ME-555-12-2000_zm.jpg
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Mendoza_Diopter_Sight_11mm_Dovetail/2003

Knock the rear sight base off after driving out the pins. If there's solder in there, you might have to heat it, but while folks say it's silver solder, the stuff I've seen will melt with a regular butane flame, which means it's probably just the regular stuff.

You'll have a 3/8ths dovetail underneath, and this will work nicely on it. Much cheaper than Mojo, too!

You can expect 8-10" Moa out of the box in most cases buying an off the shelf Russian 91/30.

I really have to disagree on that. That's what folks can usually do because they don't expect more, but most really will to half that or less from the box.

Regards,

llc%20sig.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top