New 3D Printed Case Feeder for the Lee Pro 6000

The $6.00 print files are still available....:)

I will add my latest pictures and info on that that version of the product here. Printed perfect except for one minor thing......I didn't put one of the major pieces on the bed to print....so I had to print it separately this morning, the pivoting dropper...just a little important. All together and mounted now for 9mm. Question: Which caliber case is in your pictures above?

Below is the spring assortment I had on hand and these two sizes worked perfectly......the smaller one replaced and worked better than the author's ballpoint pen spring he suggested.....
IMG_4326.JPG
9/32"x1/2" diameter x height and 7/32" x 1 1/2" left to right.


For me the 9mm cases had to be screwed all the way to the bottom, unless I did something wrong.....works great, anyway.

For this 9mm experience it seems the next case in line hangs a bit lower than his picture show, but the nuts are all the way down agnd not nearly as close to the slider as was shown in the pictures....so I doubt his demo was 9mm....probably .45 like 9mmepiphany's.......? That is still works fine is encouraging.

Now you all know.......buy it or buy the print files and print it.....makes very little difference. And btw, at least for now, I used the plastic printed pivot shaft provided sign of it being a weakness....least not yet.:)
 
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What is the inside diameter of the case feeder adapter and tube holder adapter?

Checking to see if my existing lee tubes will work.
Answering my own question. I should have taken time to read all the info on the Etsy order page. On the right hand side click on the Item details and there is lots of info. From that info is the following:

"The adapters will fit the Lee clear tubes that came with the press (outer diameter .565” or 14.35mm)".
 
Question: Which caliber case is in your pictures above?
My pictures are of a .45ACP case.

Originally, I had Trigger Assembly (TA) set too high. It would catch the body of the next case...my concern being that extra weight of a column of cases would cause the next case to drop.

I lower the Feed Assembly so that lip of the TA caught the next case at the extraction groove...so a rim's depth higher than the case mouth (a play of Lee's coin space above the case mouth) of the dropped case. 2nd picture in Post #3 and 1st picture in Post #4
 
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Below is the spring assortment I had on hand and these two sizes worked perfectly......the smaller one replaced and worked better than the author's ballpoint pen spring he suggested.....
I think he offers the use of the ballpoint pen spring for folks who didn't have an assortment of springs available...that's why he also mentioned, in his video, that you could use rubber bands for supplemental tension
 
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I think he offers the use of the ballpoint pen spring for folks who didn't have an assortment of springs available...that's why he also mentioned, in his video, that you could use rubber bands for supplemental tension
The rubber bands are okay....but they have to be changed often. The TylerR feed dies also had that option.......but that wasn't for me either. I tried the pen spring and it was not a good choice in my opinion.....too much room to move where you don't want it.
 
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Great thread! I’ve had my case feeder installed for a while now and have processed about 1000 cases each of .223 and .308. I have not tried pistol cases yet although I have every confidence that it’ll be fine. As others have said, setup is a snap and about the only fiddly thing about it is setting the height right. I think I’ve had one, maybe two cases double feed but that’s it. I’ve found it to be vastly more reliable and easier to use than the stock Lee setup. It’s necessitated going back to 4 tubes vs 5 for the Lee unit, and the red 4-tube collator is absolute crap, but I can live with it for the overall ease and facility that the Norwegian feeder provides. I can spend an hour on a Sunday morning now cranking out 300 rounds of .223 for my kids’ mag dumps, lol.
 
Adding to 9mm's post, the Lee Tubes for the 4-way are 9/16" O.D.

The "Thinwall" aquarium tubing has been made in 1/16" increments with 1/32" walls. That meant that 5/8 slid over 9/16 over 1/2 over 7/16 over 3/8. Perfect telescoped one into the next size. Then that Lee company, (not Lee PRECISION) started buying their tubing from China, and metric sizes started creeping in. For now most still work ok except the new 5/8" is iffy. I've had to buy metric ones to compensate in the 5/8 size.

But that doesn't effect this project. Buy the shorter tubes from Lee Precision or the 36" tubes from the aquarium outlet in the 9/16" size....and it'll fit the 4 or 5-ways.
I really like the idea of the longer tubes which reduces number of times they have to be refilled. However, I was shocked when I started pricing the tubes. Some places want over $20 each for the Lee aquarium supply 9/16" tubes which means $80-$90 for a 4 tube set. I think that 's insane for some plastic tubes. Has anyone found a supplier of similar size tubes at a more reasonable price? I did find this place:

However, I'm not sure of the quality and you have to buy a minimum of 25 but the costs vary from $29.36 (thin wall - .012") to $38.74 (heavy wall - .022") which is only $1.17-$1.55 each. These are also 4 foot tubes, not 3 feet. The other issue is the outside diameter which is listed at .572", not .562 (9/16"). I'm not sure if that makes them too big to fit in the Lee case tube holder.

Any suggestions/info would be appreciated.
 
However, I was shocked when I started pricing the tubes. Some places want over $20 each for the Lee aquarium supply 9/16" tubes which means $80-$90 for a 4 tube set. I think that 's insane for some plastic tubes. Has anyone found a supplier of similar size tubes at a more reasonable price? I did find this place:
Wow, that's shocking. I've had my tubes forever and think I paid less than $4 per tube. I walked into a store to pick them out of a cardboard box

I just Googled Lee's Pet Supply UPC: 010838160302 and was shocked to see the first few responses turn up $19,09, $24.99, and $16.93.

However, if you go to Pets Warehouse, they have them listed for $8.99
 
https://petmountain.com/products/lees-thinwall-rigid-tubing-clear?variant=47087664824596

Price has gone up a little......around $13. Might hurry.......I don't know what's happening to the clear rigid tubing market right now but it's scary.....

That brand of 5/8 tubing used to slide right over the 9/16.....no longer.....I had to buy these shorter metric ones to do the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV1PV11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another conspiracy like the primers one?
 
I just tried 9mm and 38 cases in the 1/2" bullet tubes I use and those cases are a slip fit.
So, 1/2" tubes can be used for those cases/calibers with a wrap of tape on the die end.
Here's the tubes I have, a pack of 6 tubes for $22+ shipping:
1-2 7-16.JPG
I think they are onto us over there as the 9/16" tube costs 2x+ ($46 for 6):
 
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Thanks for all the replies. The prices on these things are sure all over the map. Just as an FYI I did some measuring on some of my Lee Precision factory tubes and found the following:
1. They are about .022" wall thickness which is the same as the cleartecpackaging.com heavy wall tubes.
2. I also measured the Lee case tube holder and found the inside diameter is about .580" so the cleartec heavy wall tubes (.572" outside diameter) might be a little snug but should fit without modification.
 
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so the cleartec heavy wall tubes (.572" diameter) might be a little snug but should fit without modification.
With the 9/16" tubing I got from the pet store, they are a bit loose in the holder. What I do is insert the end with the price sticker still attached and it is very secure. I don't want mine too tight, as I don't leave them up when I'm not loading...I cover my press with the plastic bag that came with my Zucca shooting cart to keep the dust/spiders off
 
https://petmountain.com/products/lees-thinwall-rigid-tubing-clear?variant=47087664824596

Price has gone up a little......around $13. Might hurry.......I don't know what's happening to the clear rigid tubing market right now but it's scary.....

That brand of 5/8 tubing used to slide right over the 9/16.....no longer.....I had to buy these shorter metric ones to do the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV1PV11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another conspiracy like the primers one?

For those with 3D printers (I just ordered one), any chance of printing transparent(-ish) tubes of the right dimensions and attaching them end to end? Each segment wouldn't be very long, but if a few of them could be strung together with enough rigidity, that could be an inexpensive way to get tubes.
 
Nothing to see here...
They don't need to be "transparent" as you can 3D print any color tubes with "inspection" slots/ports so you can keep track of cases dropping and know when the tubes are running empty. ;)
@stormshrike:
"For those with 3D printers (I just ordered one), any chance of printing transparent(-ish) tubes of the right dimensions and attaching them end to end? Each segment wouldn't be very long, but if a few of them could be strung together with enough rigidity, that could be an inexpensive way to get tubes."

So, as I see it, if tubes are printed vertical the height of the printer would be the limiting factor for tube length.
Could the tubes be printed horizontally for a longer length??
For whatever length is printed could you not print an expanded portion on one end to act as a coupling for stacking?
asking for a friend. :uhoh:
.
 
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So, as I see it, if tubes are printed vertical the height of the printer would be the limiting factor for tube length.
Could the tubes be printed horizontally for a longer length??
For whatever length is printed could you not print an expanded portion on one end to act as a coupling for stacking?
asking for a friend. :uhoh:
.

Something like this from Thingiverse is what I was thinking. And like LiveLife pointed out, having inspection slots added would allow any color filament.

 
For whatever length is printed could you not print an expanded portion on one end to act as a coupling for stacking?
It would be easier to just print couplers and join the tubes. The limiting factor to how long you want to go is how tall your ceiling is.

In my picture, in Post 5, my bench is about 30" tall and the press sits on a 7" riser. The tubes are 3' long. So a bit less than 7' total...my ceilings are 10' high in my garage
 
Something like this from Thingiverse is what I was thinking. And like LiveLife pointed out, having inspection slots added would allow any color filament.

Yes, that would work, although threading the ID or OD would require thicker tube.
I was suggesting PRINTING something like this:
TubeCoupling.jpg
I hope the printing gurus will comment here as to printing a tube horizontally to gain length or adding a coupling element on 1 end of the tube, as pictured here.
jmo,
.
 
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In my picture, in Post 5, my bench is about 30" tall and the press sits on a 7" riser. The tubes are 3' long. So a bit less than 7' total...my ceilings are 10' high in my garage.

I was talking about the length limit of the printer bed limiting the length of a printed tube(s), not coupled tubes.

My bullet tubes are 3 foot long and I only have 1 on the press at a time.
I have a hitch pin in the bottom end of each tube, and I load those tubes manually off the press, before I start loading.
That equates to 50 9mm or 38sp bullets per tube and I swap-out the tube when no bullets are visual above the feeding die.
My second stop to add a full bullet tube includes changing the primer tube.
Filled bullet tube:
PwdrSprg(2)S.jpg
I have added a sky-hook to hold the tube vertical:
SkyHook.JPG
so there's that,
.
 
Yes, that would work, although threading the ID or OD would require thicker tube.
I was suggesting PRINTING something like this:
View attachment 1195677
I hope the printing gurus will comment here as to printing a tube horizontally to gain length or adding a coupling element as pictured here.
jmo,
Printing tubes horizontally would be a last resort for me. You will do reasonable well at the bottom and the sides, but closing the top is hard to get a good result. The picture below was one of my first tries, and it sucked. ;)
IMG-3900.jpg

I eventually made it work tweaked settings (got a little better with the Tricks of the trade....) lots of trial and error.
IMG-4161.jpg

But doing it with a long tube.......that sounds like walking through a rose garden with bare feet.....not going to do that.

I think someone bought up a lot of this cheap tubing to see if they could make a killing......fly by nights trying to ruin it for everybody else. Not going to feed creeps like that. Don't buy it....stick to the pet stores. or try to find metric that is close.

I have in the past used red and green electrical tape to make applications work.....just to increase the diameter at the ends. That works fine.
2 more pictures below show one of my early proximity switch housings where I used angles to make horizontals work better....and strengthen the Tee in the process.

IMG-3704.jpg

IMG-3705.jpg

Hope this helps.....
 
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A while back I was 3D printing some covers for my RCBS rifle tube bullet feeders with springs to keep from losing the ball bearings. That worked great but for the .308 size I was testing the use of RCBS's black graphite tubing above it.........it being opaque, I found I could slit it with a thin Dremel cutoff wheel, so I could see bullets in that. I would think you could do the same thing with other opaque tubing, like ABS or PVC. It did not weaken the tube even a little.;)
IMG-4027.jpg
 
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