New guy, and revolver questions

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Carbonator

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Hi there. Looking to get back into guns after a long layoff. I’d really like a snubby in 45 Long Colt or .44 Special to get started, probably a Taurus 450, S&W 296, or Charter Bulldog. I may customize a larger 45LC down to CCW size, as it is my preferred caliber but can't find many small LC revolvers on the market.

1. What is the difference between the Taurus “Ultralite†and “Total Titanium†models? They both are lightweight but only differ by an ounce or so. The Ultralite is apparently an alloy - is this an aluminum alloy frame and titanium cylinder?

2. Is the stainless steel used in revolvers nowadays completely rust free or are they still higher maintenance than the alloys?

3. How do you plug the ports on a snubby? Tap allen screw threads into the holes or weld the holes shut?

4. How do you shorten a barrel and how much does it typically cost to have done?

Thanks. Glad to be here.
 
I would just buy a gun without the ports rather than try to seal existing ports on a gun that has them.

I don't own a Taurus, so I won't get into them. I will say that they have a lifetime warranty, but any modifications may void that warranty.

Stainless steel? alloy? You should clean and maintain all your weapons. neglect will cause problems for any piece of machinery.


Have you looked at the Cimarron Thunderer?

Thund.jpg
 
Thanks Tommy

Unfortunately there aren't many offerings in .45LC out there, but the Taurus 450 is the closest I've seen to what I need. Looking for a CCW/home gun, without ports, a shrouded (or at least bobbed) hammer, lightweight, etc...

I believe the 450's are discontinued (?) so I may have to get a used one, and a warranty only covers the original owner afaik.

I'm wondering about the corrosion resistance of stainless because I'll be carrying in south Florida at times - hot sweaty and damp! A friend of mine had a Glock that started surface rusting from sweat.

The Cimarron looks nice, a bit heavy though.
 
I don't like the barrel ports either. I'm not sure if Taurus offers a Tracker model in .45 Colt or not. But anyway, I's shorten the barrel to 2+ inches (that would get rid of the ports) and dovetail in a new front sight. Then de-spur the hammer and get a set of smaller grips.
 
Carbonator,

Re your stainless steel question, no steel -- including the most corrosion resistant stainless alloys -- is “rust freeâ€. However, top-quality revolver stainless steels are extremely corrosion/rust resistant. With minimum maintenance, a modern, top-quality stainless revolver is most unlikely to rust.
 
I have a 4" Taurus tracker in 45 colt and it is a great gun. I think taking an inch off the front and dovetailing in a front sight would be great. It is a fairly concealable gun as it is the size of a S&W K frame.


PM me with an offer if you are interested.
 
Old Fuff
Ya know, I didn't think of shortening the barrel by cutting the end off to get rid of the ports. Two birds with one stone. That might be better than cutting the barrel where it meets the frame. I don't know what is standard procedure for barrel shortening is, but I like your idea a lot. You described the gun just like I want it.

RWK
I despise rust but like steel for non-ccw, maybe for a house gun. Tough stuff.

Perfessr
PM sent. Is it steel or ti or alloy? Do you have pics?
Is the S&W K frame the next size up from the J frame?

Is the S&W 296 .44 Special a K frame?

Thanks
 
You can check the used gun market for Colt New Service revolver and take it to a gunsmith for cutting and recrowning the barrel then put on a nickel finish.

Check the pawnshops for an older project gun. Never pay sticker price, haggle them down. Trick is to go in at the end of the month when their bills are due, then lay the cash down on the counter where they can see it.
 
How do you plug the ports on a snubby? Tap allen screw threads into the holes or weld the holes shut?

You don't. If you don't want a ported barrel, don't buy a gun with one. Personally, I swear by Magnaporting, but some people don't care for ports.

Is the stainless steel used in revolvers nowadays completely rust free or are they still higher maintenance than the alloys?

Stainless steel isn't now, never has been, and doubtless won't ever be corrosion-proof. It's much better today than twenty or thirty years ago, but I've steel stainless steel guns with corrosion.
 
First off S&W has built 3" M625 in 45Colt in the past, so that is another option.
Second, since you say you are looking to get back into handgunning have you shot the light weight big bore snubbies? The light weight may make them easier to carry, but pleasantry to shooting they are not to alot of shooters. The weight of the steel framed models do alot to make them shootable. A good quality, well designed holster and belt eases the carrying of a steel model.
 
Tommy Gunn:

In this day and age there are problems with working with Colt's New Service. Those that are in nice shape are too valuable to cut up and those that are doggy and need work are expensive to fix. Lockwork for these really costs, and pistolsmiths that know how too tune them justifiably charge big bucks. And no matter how much you chop it, it still comes out big and heavy. If one want's to go in this direction a S&W model 625PC is a better idea.
 
The Ultralite is apparently an alloy - is this an aluminum alloy frame and titanium cylinder?
The Ultralite has aluminum alloy frame but a stainless steel cylinder and barrel. A Taurus tech told me the alloy is 4041.

Is the stainless steel used in revolvers nowadays completely rust free?
That depends on you and your environment. After I ran a few hot July days in Florida, evidently the salt air and my body sweat caused some spots on the alloy. Nothing major, just enough to aggravate me.
... completely rust free? Don't know of any stainless steel like that. Even a stainless steel dive knife can rust after one dive without being rinsed off and lubed.

How do you plug the ports on a snubby?
I plugged the ports of a Taurus 731 Ultralite by tapping the ports, using stainless steel set screws, and Loctite threadlocker. Nothing has worked loose after 300 rounds.

Larry
 
Thanks Lancel for clearing that alloy question up.


Between these two which would you all prefer (cost not important):

450 Ultralite - aluminum frame, steel cylinder, 20 oz

450 Total Titanium - titanium frame and cylinder, 19.8 oz

Both have same dimensions.
 
I would get a .32 or .38 caliber gun if it was going to be an aluminum alloy or titanium frame. I want a steel gun with some heft to it for the larger calibers so as to absorb much of the recoil.
 
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