New M&P9... First thing I did..

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Been wanting one for awhile now. Had a guy who wanted a pistol I had and made the move. Felt the one I let go I did not want as much as the M&P9.

Although the trigger is better than the older ones it still left something to be desired with the grittiness in the take up. Did a quick and light polish on the trigger bar and striker block. Man what a difference a few minutes make! I have done a few trigger jobs on the M&P before but I never got to do the one I wanted and figured I would take my time on this one. I'll let you know how it turns out.. I plan to end with a 5lb. or more pull. No real angle changes, mostly polish and smooth as I don't need a shorter reset and the trigger pull is near perfect weight. Actually it is the initial take-up that is rough (not as rough now) and bumpy. Go too far and I will lighten the pull too much (they get down to around 4.5 lb. with a complete job).

Until then I am happy with the deal, all told I have $375 plus a used $20 holster in the thing and I get to be the first one to shoot it! I have shot one before but not with the small grip insert and think I'll try both it and the medium. I have short fingers with wide palms. They kind of don't match...lol so we see which one feels and works better after a few rounds.

Note: Either grip still feels better than my G22. It's like the swell on the medium grip fills the gap in my palm where it should. Not downing My G22, but the grip leaves a lot to be desired for me.

I would like some input on your experience with the M&P9 as far as trigger work done or not done, accuracy, and any useful tips you feel may need, etc. thanks.

 

[wally]

Never saw the need to do anything about the trigger. Like mine, I've 9mm, .40S&W, and .45ACP versions.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Never saw the need to do anything about the trigger. Like mine, I've 9mm, .40S&W, and .45ACP versions.

So yours had none of the grittiness in the take up? It's really not hard to have one that does and doesn't take much at all on a contact point to feel it. General rule of thumb is if you can feel it with your fingernail, you can feel it in the trigger.

I actually like the trigger after take-up and reset is fine for me. Also the pull is not a mile and a half long, easy to reach, and the sights don't move around as much as others I have seen. My favorite is the grip, man it fits well.

 

[MrBorland]

I have an M&P40. I shot the gun for a while in stock condition, and recently did a Burwell trigger job myself. I left the springs stock, but the trigger feels crisper, with less letoff and overtravel.

Accuracy? I haven't shot it for groups since the trigger job, but here are 3 consecutive sub-3" 25 yards unsupported groups I shot with it right after I got it and with the initial handloads I whipped up for it. With the trigger job, and a little load development, I expect it'd do even better now. Not a bullseye gun, but better than most likely think a polymer striker-fired pistol could do.

 

[ritepath]

I did the same thing to my shield using my work sharp. Quick and easy and the grit is gone...

 

[Havok7416]

Well this means your M&P9 will have to go head-to-head with my M&P9c with custom trigger job... Let's see which one is better!

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Well this means your M&P9 will have to go head-to-head with my M&P9c with custom trigger job... Let's see which one is better!

LOl. Would be nice to see how it compares!

I have an M&P40. I shot the gun for a while in stock condition, and recently did a Burwell trigger job myself. I left the springs stock, but the trigger feels crisper, with less letoff and overtravel.

That's the same way I have been doing them for other people. I wanted to avoid doing much on the Striker engagement area so that it doesn't lighten the trigger pull much. Going for the 5-5.5 lb. pull with smooth take-up and clean break, we'll see how she turns out. Not spring changes either.

Do have an update...They changed the sear (I think I am late to the party on this ). Totally different than the old one. Better angle and fit and finish is surprising. My camera really sucks on this phone, but when I get a good visible pic, I'll update it. I don't know if I even need to touch this thing. The only thing I think I need to do in full detail is complete the striker block. That is where the bumping seems to be coming from. Shoot be a nice trigger when I'm done.

In this pic you can tell the differences in the sear as it has more of a tear drop as opposed to the oval shape.


Here is a picture of the different sears http://modernserviceweapons.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130709-sears-IMG_1385.jpg

Listed from top to bottom is first MIM sear, next current sear (the one I have) and bottom is a Performance Center sear.

Something else I noticed during disassembly is that the assembly has changed. The ejector is now held in by a new sear pin with a head on it. The ejector only comes off when you remove the sear pin. Also it only comes out one way now (obviously because of the head on the pin) .

Anyhow the squeaky wheel gets the grease and the one squeaking is the Striker block. Going to polish and shape this baby for smooth action and see where I am with the trigger then. I have a feeling that the upgraded sear is really going to make this project much easier. We'll see.!

 

[rtz]

Anyone using any of this stuff?

https://apextactical.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid11.html

 

[Havok7416]

rtz, I THINK my M&P9c has an Apex installed, but I never asked and the gunsmith never told me. I just told him to make my trigger nicer and he complied, but it's the most logical answer to what I ended up with.

 

[MrBorland]

The Apex parts are top-notch and the way to go if you don't want to mess with modifying the stock parts.

I didn't use any Apex trigger group parts, but I did install their extractor. M&P extractors seem to have a reputation for failure at some point, whereas the Apex extractor is bomb-proof.

 

[RustyShackelford]

M&Ps; 9x19mm ....

I've owned 2 M&P series pistols so far, one in 9x19mm, one .45acp.
Id suggest Trijicon HD green-orange sights. That may help if you carry the pistol in low light areas(night).
A few NIB M&P models I looked at in 2013 had awful triggers. I'd look into the polymer trigger type set-up from Apex Tactical. Apex is widely known to offer improved trigger systems.
Gunsmith & sworn LE officer(SWAT team leader); David Bowie, www.BowieTacticalConcepts.com is highly respected for custom work on M&Ps.

RS

 

[mgmorden]

Anyone using any of this stuff?

https://apextactical.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid11.html

Yep. Running the CAEK in my M&P 9L and their spring kit in my SD40. I'm strongly contemplating putting their replacement trigger in the SD40 as well.

They make great stuff. Short of having a professional like Burwell do a trigger job, Apex is the best way to improve the M&P trigger. Heck I can't use it due to competition requirements but I've heard people favorably compare the Apex FSS kit for the M&P to 1911 triggers.

 

[wally]

Well this means your M&P9 will have to go head-to-head with my M&P9c with custom trigger job... Let's see which one is better!

At what? If you are consistently at or below 3 seconds from a holster knocking down six 8" steel plates at 10 yards then you'd probably beat me. Otherwise mines better

For me its all about recoil control and target acquisition which are my limiting factors.

The trigger smooths out a lot after some usage.

 

[Havok7416]

Sorry wally, I was (poorly) referring to the fact that Wreck-N-Crew lives up the road from me. We actually DO plan to test the two guns side by side this weekend and we will be able to provide an update here once we do.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Sorry wally, I was (poorly) referring to the fact that Wreck-N-Crew lives up the road from me. We actually DO plan to test the two guns side by side this weekend and we will be able to provide an update here once we do.

It should be great. I finally finished it!

I tired my finger from pulling so much while trying to feel the take up as much as the rest of the trigger. To be honest the new sear leaves little room to play with and unless you have some good experience With trigger jobs I would recommend double caution when rounding the sear where the trigger bar engages it. There are two sharp but polished angles on it that need removing and rounded, polished. When this is done you have to hit the part of the sear that engages the firing pin. If not, it may not release the firing pin.

You can follow the instructions that Mr. Borland posted the link too, but you will not need to file anything if you have the new sear. Actually some 600 grit sand paper wrapped around a small square (I used a triangle shaped Arkansas stone) block. This way you take off much less and less likelihood of over doing it. Rule of thumb always applies....YOU CANNOT PUT IT BACK ON!

Another note I find worth mentioning is the striker, firing pin needs no more than a polish. Also (Just reiterating) the back of the Sear Must have a tad removed (at least mine did) in order to get a good %100 function and release of the striker/firing pin. Just don't remove to much and (hindsight being 20/20) I would recommend putting the sear back in and testing for function. Once the 100% function is achieved. Then polish and de-bur , polish striker area of sear one more time reassemble and re-test.

Finish job I am more than happy. I first thought it was a little heavier pull because my finger was over worked...lol. Set it down for a few minutes and pulled the trigger ..man it is a real nice trigger and the pull is a little less than the 6lb I thought it was. It feels Like I hit my target at 5-5.5 lbs. Can't be happier. Now I have to shoot it! Come on Sunday! (grown kid coming out).

In reference to the Apex trigger kit. I have used them. I absolutely swear by the one for the SD9VE. Even though the SD9VE has a much better trigger than the previous Sigma versions, it is a little heave, and scratchy. Also the Kit lightens the pull, but doesn't necessarily smooth the pull. Even with the kit, I followed the polishing instructions for the SD9VE after I already installed the kit and tried it. The pull was much better, But the polishing comes separate from the kit and up to the installer to do.

As far as the reason for the M&P job I just did, There is no need for any parts. It does require a little work on the Sear and Striker Block whereas the Apex just requires (suggest) the polishing of the trigger bar and installing the parts. Doing it right (custom job) reduces trigger pull and smooth's it out. Also the difference in doing it this way, you can adjust the trigger pull weight whereas the Apex has a standard set pull (I think there are two, one about4-4.5 lbs. and one for competition @2.5 lbs.). I wanted a pull around 5lbs.+. If you like a 4- 4.5 lb. pull I would recommend Apex for any one who want's it done, but has no experience doing an actual trigger job.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Just an update.. maybe something where Havak7416 can chime in (since he shot it).

I like the overall pull weight on mine for a carry gun but comparing triggers, there are many differences. Much of what Havok7416 has on his cant be accomplished without some parts. The trigger is forward set and short with a short reset. Actually too me, much better than mine as mine was relatively unchanged as far as length and reset, even though the pull is much smoother than it was when first got it. His trigger pull weight was less than 3 lbs. Definitely a competition trigger job and not the drop in $25 springs. The sear is a forward set sear from what I could tell.

Though pull weight is night and day they were intended somewhat to be that way. I was going for a very slight reduction in pull weight and I believe I achieved it. I think it's 5-5.5 lbs. The Glock 22 had a 4.5 lb. trigger in it and I can tell the M&P was just a tad heavier.

After all is said and done, I feel I can shoot his M&P much faster with better accuracy, and actually that is was it was designed to do. IF the sights moved on his when firing, it definitely was not because of the trigger and If I felt safe carrying and handling it for SD it would be without a doubt beneficial on all accounts.

I am a little from the old school and use to safeties...cant get them out of my sub conscious. I think I forgot to mention it today, but I caught myself thumbing an imaginary safety. I do it with everything, it must be burnt permanently in muscle memory.

Though safeties are not as popular as they once were, it seems reasonable to have one since I still move it real or imagined..... then maybe I would feel confident in having the light competition trigger. Old habits are hard to change I recon and I think I might install a safety on it. Get a few needed parts and take it to where I feel it could serve any role.

 

[Havok7416]

Agreed, your trigger had some slack in it, but still very shoot-able. Your trigger had an even break with no noticeable grit or stacking, so you did alright there. Not at all a bad job considering you did it all yourself!

Regarding my trigger, I gave the gunsmith instructions to make it as close to a 1911 trigger as possible, since I primarily carry single-actions. I would agree it is very light.

 

[iMagUdspEllr]

I have a new M&P 9 with the new version of the slide catch. The bump they put on the new slide catch helps solve the nearly nonexistent tactile reset issue the older M&Ps had.

I still replaced the trigger with an aluminum AEK trigger. I have no idea why S&W thought it was a good idea to give the stock trigger, flex from front to rear as well as side to side. The aluminum trigger fixed that issue.

I didn't do any polishing other than what is naturally done by dry-firing. I think I might have replaced the trigger return spring with a lighter one. The trigger pull is sitting at about 4 3/4 lbs.

My issue with the trigger is that the trigger break with the stock sear creeps right before it breaks instead of breaking more cleanly like a Glock. I tried AEKs sear and that just gives the break a lot of creep with no obvious "wall" before the break. I like a trigger to have some take-up to a "wall" that breaks cleanly once I apply the required number of pounds of force to the trigger. But, that is hard to get with striker-fired pistols without a professional trigger job or some of the more expensive aftermarket parts.

I also don't like how the M&P is so well balanced that if you have even a little adrenaline going the muzzle moves around too easily compared to other guns. But, that can be solved with a tungsten guide rod I suppose.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Regarding my trigger, I gave the gunsmith instructions to make it as close to a 1911 trigger as possible, since I primarily carry single-actions. I would agree it is very light.

I really liked it. A light smooth trigger with no bumps.

My issue with the trigger is that the trigger break with the stock sear creeps right before it breaks instead of breaking more cleanly like a Glock. I tried AEKs sear and that just gives the break a lot of creep with no obvious "wall" before the break. I like a trigger to have some take-up to a "wall" that breaks cleanly once I apply the required number of pounds of force to the trigger. But, that is hard to get with striker-fired pistols without a professional trigger job or some of the more expensive aftermarket parts.

Some people like the feel to let them know, not me. I am like you on that one. The way mine ended up (best way I can describe it) Is no grit on the slack, but everything else same...basically smoother, then when it engages the sear etc. (starting actual pull or what should be) the tension increases with a clean break. The sear engagement seemed long enough and not too long if you know what I mean. But when It starts engagement to break there is nothing telling me that it is about to other than the trigger being almost pulled all the way back. It breaks clean.

I would like to shorten the reset and take the slack out more than anything. Got a guy I know who works on triggers on a regular basis, so I am going back to pick his brain some more. Not that I am not happy with the trigger and if it came from the factory this way I would give it a thumbs up, but just want to personalize it a little more.

The Apex kits seem to have everything I want but not all in one package. I have done a few of them and in other models. They have a lot of different stuff for M&P triggers. Maybe I'm being ultra picky.

As far as the Glocks, I don't like the actual trigger itself....not what I am looking for.

 

[RH45]

I did the Burwell job on my first M&P, and ended up at 4#.
I bought the Apex competition kit for my 9mm Pro, and it came in at 36 oz.
I bought a full-size 9mm for a "house" gun, and to maybe use as a backup for my Pro. I did a little polishing, and put in an Apex competition spring kit and it's 3#, but, has a little creep. I haven't decided if I should try my original "Pro" sear in it, but, I'll probably just leave it as is.
They will shoot about 2" groups at 25 yards, with ammo they like. They all seem to prefer jhps.
I shot a BAD 9mm Pro that no mater what ammo you put through it, it would AT BEST shoot 6" groups at 25 yards. Very unacceptable!

 

[buddhas]

S&W M&P 9mm

Wouldn't it be nice if you could receive this from the factory with the improved trigger instead of having to go through all of this.
By the way, when you grip and shake your M&P 9, what do you hear ?

 

[mgmorden]

Wouldn't it be nice if you could receive this from the factory with the improved trigger instead of having to go through all of this.
By the way, when you grip and shake your M&P 9, what do you hear ?

The factory has to cater to the lowest common denominator. When it comes to pull weight many, many people really don't need a lighter trigger. Just about anyone on this forum probably wouldn't have an issue with it, but this is an enthusiasts forum - its not a good representation of your average gun owner. That "average" gun owner doesn't need anything south of 5.5 lbs. I personally like my ~3 lbs trigger on my M&P but its for competition and target shooting only. I'd never carry it with the trigger thats on that gun.

As to smoothness - again - it comes down to the average gun owner. Most of them can't tell a good trigger from a bad one. To them its just a button that makes the gun go boom.

Personally I have no issue with having to put some work or parts into the gun to get it running better. With around 10,000 rounds through my M&P so far throwing $100 into the trigger isn't really a big deal.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Wouldn't it be nice if you could receive this from the factory with the improved trigger instead of having to go through all of this. By the way, when you grip and shake your M&P 9, what do you hear ?

Yes it would be nice to have a sig trigger with an M&P grip for $500...but there are no 500$ polymer framed anything that have a stock trigger that I wouldn't like to improve. If it isn't the trigger it's the grip. I also hear the same thing you hear in a lot of guns when you shake it as long as that barrel sticks to the slide, and the sights stick to the slide it will hit what your aiming at.

I did the Burwell job on my first M&P, and ended up at 4#.
I bought the Apex competition kit for my 9mm Pro, and it came in at 36 oz.
I bought a full-size 9mm for a "house" gun, and to maybe use as a backup for my Pro. I did a little polishing, and put in an Apex competition spring kit and it's 3#, but, has a little creep. I haven't decided if I should try my original "Pro" sear in it, but, I'll probably just leave it as is.
They will shoot about 2" groups at 25 yards, with ammo they like. They all seem to prefer jhps.
I shot a BAD 9mm Pro that no mater what ammo you put through it, it would AT BEST shoot 6" groups at 25 yards. Very unacceptable!

Pretty interesting. Kind of makes you mad to pay a little more for the pro and get less than a cheaper version.

As to smoothness - again - it comes down to the average gun owner. Most of them can't tell a good trigger from a bad one.

True. I guess what some peoples version of a god trigger is might vary some as well. At one time it was not so complicated, but add light guns, no manual safeties and the fear of it being too light a pull for SD whether personal or legal reasons kind of mucked it up a little bit if you ask me. A trigger job on the best revolvers or semi-auto's was desired and even envied by those who didn't have it. Like you said the factory has to contend with the lowest common denominator, you can by an expensive gun and maybe have the trigger you want, or you can add it to something you can afford.