New Ruger SP101 .22lr

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I'm shooting my new SP101 .22 for the first time at the range tomorrow if not today. I joined The High Road to relay how it goes with my first revolver and for experienced advice in the future. Talk to y'all later and have a good one.
 
The Ruger SP101 is a well designed revolver; and, assuming that yours checks out, I think you've got yourself a, 'keeper'! A 22 LR revolver is a nice gun to have; and I still have the first one I bought (a Smith & Wesson 'Masterpiece' Model K-17) back in the early 1970's. It won't be for sale during my lifetime. Good luck with your new Ruger!
 
OK, long story short...At an indoor range w/10yd target I shot 500 rounds of Remington Thunderbolt w/1 misfire, cartridge was struck, reloaded it and it fired. Adjusted windage and elevation(from what was set from factory): total clicks were Windage 7 clockwise and Elevation 2 clockwise, however windage was still to the right and elevation could still come down a bit. My unskilled conclusion: revolver performed well and has no manufacturing flaws, I need to understand windage and elevation more and practice on my aim. I'll add pictures (from beginning to end) that may aid in an evaluation of my shooting session. Thank you for any input.
 

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Accurate .22 revolver is essential part of survival package and just as important as water, food and fuel. There are plenty of rabbits, pigeons and squirrels that can be shot and used for stew if the need arises.
 
my early 101 is a ex revolve, built like a tank. eastbank.
 

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You did well with your purchase. I've had two SP .22s. Interestingly, although I really like Ruger revolvers (see my various posts here and there), I never really warmed to the .22 SP; now I'm watching for a good deal on the .22 version of the GP100. Regardless of my preferences, the SP is an excellent gun that will last several lifetimes; enjoy it!
 
The Ruger SP101 is a well designed revolver; and, assuming that yours checks out, I think you've got yourself a, 'keeper'! A 22 LR revolver is a nice gun to have; and I still have the first one I bought (a Smith & Wesson 'Masterpiece' Model K-17) back in the early 1970's. It won't be for sale during my lifetime. Good luck with your new Ruger!
Thank you sir.
 
Welcome to THR. Yes, the SP-101 is an excellent investment. One to pass on for generations.

THR has a great group of experts who will give you the "straight skinny" on whatever you want to know. THR rocks.
Thank you guys for your replies. Yes Pablo, I agree, it's a good pack gun. Yes Legionnaire, the 10rd cylinder for the GP100 is awesome. I would have bought the GP100 if they made it with a 4"barrel or shorter.
 
OK, long story short...At an indoor range w/10yd target I shot 500 rounds of Remington Thunderbolt w/1 misfire, cartridge was struck, reloaded it and it fired. Adjusted windage and elevation(from what was set from factory): total clicks were Windage 7 clockwise and Elevation 2 clockwise, however windage was still to the right and elevation could still come down a bit. My unskilled conclusion: revolver performed well and has no manufacturing flaws, I need to understand windage and elevation more and practice on my aim. I'll add pictures (from beginning to end) that may aid in an evaluation of my shooting session. Thank you for any input.

Rodney, anytime you seek pistol shooting advice it helps a pistol instructor, like me, to know whether you are right or left handed; as well as whether you were firing that revolver in single, or double action mode. If — if — I were to guess by your 10 yard targets I'd say that you were firing in single action; and, statistically, you're probably right-handed. (How am I doing?) :D

I'll accept that the factory sights were, somewhat off, for that Remington 'Thunderbolt' ammo you were using; but I have a suspicion that your final adjustments were made: not for the gun, not for the ammunition, but for YOU. I'm going to guess that you're applying too much hand pressure to the bottom of the revolver's backstrap, too.

For well-controlled and accurate single-acton revolver shooting you want less, rather than more, of your trigger finger's pad (in front of the distal joint) to be in contact with the trigger's face; and for well-controlled and accurate double-action revolver shooting you want your trigger finger's pad to be, more or less, 'wrapped' around and (almost) up against the distal joint.

Your targets are interesting. Why? Because most new (revolver) shooters tend to drop their shots; you, however, are throwing most of your shots high and to the right. Your last target is particularly revealing! You were fatigued and appear to have stopped adjusting the sights; so I'm able to tell a little bit more about your style.

When you adjust pistol sights the best tool to use is either a mechanical 'Ransom Rest', or 'Caldwell Pistolero'. Suffice it to say that most ranges do not offer this type of equipment; so you've got to work 'freehand'. What I do is to roll up an old towel on top of my range bag and press the pistol's frame and rear part of the barrel into it. This saves me a lot of: time, ammunition, and guesswork.

The only way to analyze a group that's been shot freehand is to find the center of a good sized group, and guesstimate it from there. My best guesses for your groups — which you fired at different times during the same range session — are stated above; and, after 40 + years of doing things like this, I'd say that some of the adjustments you've made were more for you than they were for the gun; and, after further more solidly supported test firing, you might want to back some of those adjustments off, and work more on how you are actually gripping the gun.

Finally, a few words about how to correctly adjust your pistol’s sights:

The cardinal rule is to move the rear sight in the direction that you want the point-of-impact to go. If you want to move the POI down then lower the rear sight by screwing it down in a clockwise direction.

If you want to move the POI to the left then move the rear sight to the left by screwing it outward in a counterclockwise direction.


 
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Rodney, anytime you seek pistol shooting advice it helps a pistol instructor, like me, to know whether you are right or left handed; as well as whether you were firing that revolver in single, or double action mode. If — if — I were to guess by your 10 yard targets I'd say that you were firing in single action; and, statistically, you're probably right-handed. (How am I doing?) :D

I'll accept that the factory sights were, somewhat off, for that Remington 'Thunderbolt' ammo you were using; but I have a suspicion that your final adjustments were made: not for the gun, not for the ammunition, but for YOU. I'm going to guess that you're applying too much hand pressure to the bottom of the revolver's backstrap, too.

For well-controlled and accurate single-acton revolver shooting you want less, rather than more, of your trigger finger's pad (in front of the distal joint) to be in contact with the trigger's face; and for well-controlled and accurate double-action revolver shooting you want your trigger finger's pad to be, more or less, 'wrapped' around and (almost) up against the distal joint.

Your targets are interesting. Why? Because most new (revolver) shooters tend to drop their shots; you, however, are throwing most of your shots high and to the right. Your last target is particularly revealing! You were fatigued and appear to have stopped adjusting the sights; so I'm able to tell a little bit more about your style.

When you adjust pistol sights the best tool to use is either a mechanical 'Ransom Rest', or 'Caldwell Pistolero'. Suffice it to say that most ranges do not offer this type of equipment; so you've got to work 'freehand'. What I do is to roll up an old towel on top of my range bag and press the pistol's frame and rear part of the barrel into it. This saves me a lot of: time, ammunition, and guesswork.

The only way to analyze a group that's been shot freehand is to find the center of a good sized group, and guesstimate it from there. My best guesses for your groups — which you fired at different times during the same range session — are stated above; and, after 40 + years of doing things like this, I'd say that some of the adjustments you've made were more for you than they were for the gun; and, after further more solidly supported test firing, you might want to back some of those adjustments off, and work more on how you are actually gripping the gun.

Finally, a few words about how to correctly adjust your pistol’s sights:

The cardinal rule is to move the rear sight in the direction that you want the point-of-impact to go. If you want to move the POI down then lower the rear sight by screwing it down in a clockwise direction.

If you want to move the POI to the left then move the rear sight to the left by screwing it outward in a counterclockwise direction.


Thank you sir for your input. Yes, I'm right handed and I shot single action. Factory sights were off meaning the windage blade was to the right of being centered on the gun. I adjusted the sights from that point by where the ammo hit the target. Maybe I should center the windage blade and start over? I didn't know sights had to be adjusted depending on ammo as well, I know very little. My long term intentions are to pick a good copper plated ammo(I had to clean cylinder and barrel every 8 RDS w/the lead Thunderbolt), sight the gun with that ammo, and shoot nothing but that and improve my aim. Well, I'm interested in the shot shells also, but I want to stick with one kind of bullet ammo. I'll remember your advice on the trigger and finger placement for single and double action. I was indeed fatigued at the end, more from hearing other shooters firing large rounds than anything else. But, it seemed that the last few adjustments weren't making that much of a difference. I will use a makeshift rest the next time, I figured at 10yds it shouldn't have been difficult. I appreciate and thank you for your advice and I'm not sure on when I'm going again (won't be too long though) I'll post the results again. For now I've got a dirty gun to clean and I've got to learn how to re-oil the inner workings; the outside, barrel, and cylinder are no problem, but anywho. Thank you sir and have a good one.
 
I used to adjust all of my adjustable sight revolvers and then I realized often the difference in impact (shooting) will vary day to day and it isn't the revolver but ME causing the variation. I am not an expert revolver shooter, but certainly shooting the 22's which has essentially no recoil allows you to work on your form at very low cost. I have come to realize that I prefer a 3" or 4" revolver for general purposes. Hunting I want a longer barrel.
 
I used to adjust all of my adjustable sight revolvers and then I realized often the difference in impact (shooting) will vary day to day and it isn't the revolver but ME causing the variation. I am not an expert revolver shooter, but certainly shooting the 22's which has essentially no recoil allows you to work on your form at very low cost. I have come to realize that I prefer a 3" or 4" revolver for general purposes. Hunting I want a longer barrel.
Thank you for your input.
 
Yeah, I am adjusting it to me more than anything. I adjust them to where they are pretty much on target most days. After that, I have to hold a bit high or low or to one side depending on how I am shooting that day and what ammo I am using.
 
500 rounds and only one misfire with thunderbolt? That's a pretty lucky draw! Though I haven't tried it in years, so maybe quality has improved somewhat...
 
Rodney Richwine Jr.

I have found the slightly more expensive CCI MiniMags and Wolf Match Target ammo to be very reliable, accurate, and fairly clean shooting, compared to a lot of other brands.
 
500 rounds and only one misfire with thunderbolt? That's a pretty lucky draw! Though I haven't tried it in years, so maybe quality has improved somewhat...
Actually, my total count was 487. So, unless somewhere along the way I miscounted something, the box was just a tad short. But I shot everything out of that 500 Rd box from Academy.
 
Yeah, I am adjusting it to me more than anything. I adjust them to where they are pretty much on target most days. After that, I have to hold a bit high or low or to one side depending on how I am shooting that day and what ammo I am using.
Thank you for sharing Tallball.
 
I adjusted the sights from that point by where the ammo hit the target.

A common mistake new shooters make is to blame the sights and start adjusting them. You are doing what is known as chasing the bullet.

When I shoot a new to me gun I never know for sure whether I am testing myself, the gun or the ammunition. I make several separate trips to the range before I touch the sights.

The biggest variable is me. I may have the jitters from drinking caffeine, being tired or not practicing the basics of proper breathing, grip, or trigger pull. My most common fault is not focusing on the front sight. When I realize I am not doing so I will repeat out loud to myself “front sight, front sight, front sight” while I am pulling the trigger. (It is also a good way to get the range to yourself. People look at funny when you talk to yourself). After a few rounds of doing so I am usually back on target.

Maybe I should center the windage blade and start over?

Your second target shows your groups are mostly centered. Personally I would reset the rear sight so it is centered and make several trips to the range before touching them again.
 
It's is common for a right handed shooter to hit low and to the left. But that is the shooter, not usually the gun.
 
A common mistake new shooters make is to blame the sights and start adjusting them. You are doing what is known as chasing the bullet.

When I shoot a new to me gun I never know for sure whether I am testing myself, the gun or the ammunition. I make several separate trips to the range before I touch the sights.

The biggest variable is me. I may have the jitters from drinking caffeine, being tired or not practicing the basics of proper breathing, grip, or trigger pull. My most common fault is not focusing on the front sight. When I realize I am not doing so I will repeat out loud to myself “front sight, front sight, front sight” while I am pulling the trigger. (It is also a good way to get the range to yourself. People look at funny when you talk to yourself). After a few rounds of doing so I am usually back on target.



Your second target shows your groups are mostly centered. Personally I would reset the rear sight so it is centered and make several trips to the range before touching them again.
Thank you for your input. I agree, I'm going to reset the rear sight and start over. But, when I say reset I mean centering the blade on the gun and going from there. However, when you say reset do you mean back-clicking the exact # of clicks I made and going from there? Because that would place the blade to the right of being centered on the gun, which is how it came from the factory. Also, I'm going to use a makeshift rest this next time. I'll try to explain my aiming to you, this revolver has a squared notch rear blade and green fiber optic front. I try to center the green dot so it flushly fills the square notch in the rear, basically the dot is centered in the notch. In other words, I try to make it appear that the rear and front sights are one piece when aiming. I believe I've got a good revolver here, meaning it doesn't have to be sent back to Ruger, I just need to get to where I can hit the bullseye from 10-15yds. Also there are no trademark symbols(small r in a circle) on this one as every other one I've seen in reviews has the trademark symbol after Ruger and the Ruger symbol. According to the serial# this one seems to have been made in 2016. I know it's really irrelevant but have you ever noticed such a thing? That's all I've got for now so have a good one.
 
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