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Oiling/greasing a 1911

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by briney11, Sep 10, 2010.

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  1. briney11

    briney11 Member

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    Would somebody that knows the proper way to do this please post pics of how and where to grease/oil a 1911 for us newbie 1911 owners?
    I have tried youtube and have not been able to find a complete "this is how you do it" video. Thank you very much in advance.
     
  2. Mad Magyar

    Mad Magyar Member

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    I found some excellent videos on YouTube under: "Cleaning a 1911 pistol"..
    When I started cleaning a 1911, before the Internet, I first observed where all the friction pts (wear marks) were located and made sure the breech-face was clean.
    That was my start.....
     
  3. ElrodCod

    ElrodCod Member

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    Give everything a light coating of oil after cleaning & wipe off the excess. Put one drop of oil on the outside of the barrel bushing when you reassemble, one drop of oil on each rail, one drop on the disconnector, one drop on the barrel hood, one drop on the forward part of the barrel (the part that is covered by the bushing when in battery).
     
  4. DasFriek

    DasFriek Member

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    Your gonna get a million different answers and 95% of them will be right.
    Some run them very lightly lubed and some people like me drown them.

    The only dry places on my gun are the magazine tube in the grip and the outside of the gun after ive wiped the oil off it.

    To do it this way you must clean it meticulously since all that lube will hold onto dirt and residue which over time if not cleaned is worse than no lube at all. Its like liquid sandpaper.

    My routine is this:
    Wipe everything internally with CLP and wipe dry.
    Wipe and coat everything internally again with a heavy oil that wont evaporate.
    Grease the barrel bushing,Barrel lugs,rails and spring guide rod.

    This is just how my guns works best, And all guns are different and some like it wet and some like it dry.
     
  5. stork

    stork Member

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  6. Quack

    Quack Member

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    i use grease on the sliding parts and oil on the pivoting parts.
     
  7. Zerodefect

    Zerodefect Member

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    Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING on my 1911's get soaked in CLP to clean and lube.

    Then I also have a med-thin oil and a thick oil for lubeing critical areas. CLP will dry off very soon, but leave most of it's rust protection behind. But dryed up CLP is a poor lube by itself.

    Thick, oil maybe 40wt engine or ATF/STP/and some grease mixed in:
    -disconnector bump
    -fp safety bump (series 80, Kimber custom II etc.)
    -outside of barrel
    -FLGR if yours has one
    -rails
    -barrel bushing, to reduce wear
    -and a little on the ramp to protect it's polished finish.

    By now your hands should be covered in oil. Rub it into the outside of gun to prevent rust. Wipe dry for carry, leave wet for storage.

    When In doubt I overlube. Too much lube attracts dust and grit, but that's fixed by regular field and detail strip intervals. The gun will usually spit out excess lube when you check it's function after reassembly anyway.

    I use thicker oil, so it stays in place, won't evaporate, and wont drip into the barrel. I send a patch soaked in CLP regularly down the barrel to prevent rust.
     
  8. ir3e971

    ir3e971 Member

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    Disassemble.

    Clean entire pistol using Ballistol (doesn't hurt the grips!).

    Grease rails and barrel in bushing area. Reassemble, and wipe off exterior.
     
  9. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    Wow.

    Oil is a dirt magnet. Grease is a stronger dirt magnet. Grease and grit combine to make for a pretty efficient slurry/lapping agent. Some types of oils can kill primers in just a few hours.

    Put a couple drops of oil in the frame rails and use gravity and the slide to distribute it. A drop on your finger, smeared on the center rail in the slide and into the disconnect's reset slot. (Looks like a half-moon cut.) Likewise on the slidestop crosspin. A drop on the link, so that it runs between the lower lug feet. Cock the gun and put a drop on the forward part of the hammer...between the hammer and frame. Cock and decock the hammer a few times to distribute it over the sear and hammer hooks. A drop on top of the disconnect. Push it down to let the oil gravity feed into the channel. If the bushing is closely fitted to the barrel, smear a little oil on the end of the barrel at the fitted area. If it's not...it's not necessary, but go ahead and do it if you like.
     
  10. Mad Magyar

    Mad Magyar Member

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    Tuner, what's your thoughts on some that after cleaning the feed ramp; will smear some oil on it including the mag's follower & lips. Personally, I think they defeat the purpose of a good cleaning...
     
  11. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    I am not Tuner obviously, but leave the ramp and feed lips alone after wiping them clean. No oil/lube there. AC
     
  12. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    Yep. No need and probably counterproductive.
     
  13. BlayGlock

    BlayGlock Member

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    but you should listen to 1911Tuner.
     
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