sean1129
Member
Just wanted to share some 'old' or should I say very pre-lock woes I've experienced with a couple of Smith revolvers lately. I know the thinking is that perhaps Smith (and other companies, really) cheapen production costs, and often their products, as time goes on. However, a few recent concerns on an 80's vintage model 29 and a mid 60's version model 36 I currently own have reminded me that these guns, although nice, are still subject to manufacturing woes...
I acquired an 80's vintage model 29 in literally 99% condition from its original owner late last summer. It had exactly 60 rounds of 44 magnum though it, ever, as I also acquired the original box of ammo. I hand load, and no matter what I tried, the gun would lead in the first two inches of the barrel (8 3/8 barrel, btw). The gun is accurate as hell, the lead scrubs out with some Chore Boy no problems, but this really started to bother me, as it simply should not do this. I went through all of the bullet fit scenarios, etc, (more experimentation than I care to list here, really) and checked timing. Two of the cylinders would not click into place during a very slow cock, but barely. Under normal use, the cylinder was locking into place just fine. I finally took it to a reputable local gunsmith, and later find out the gun had a cracked hand. Although this was a future problem, it was not the actual problem of my leading, which a later range visit confirmed. So, back to my investigation. I ended up taking a wood dowel, and with the pistol at full lockup, sliding the dowel down the barrel revealed the true problem--at the transition from barrel to cylinder, there was a hang up when the revolver was turned to one side. In effect, the bullet is slamming against one side of the barrel (by a couple thousandths, but you get the idea) as it enters the barrel, causing the leading. The kicker, though, is that the hang up does not occur on all of the cylinders at full lockup, but rather only two of them...
This would require a bit of tinkering and shimming from a smith to fix, but I've decided to let it ride, as the guns shoots well and about 5 rounds of JHP ammo down the barrel after the lead rounds pulls the lead right out, but I just wanted to point out that although oldies are often goodies in the Smith and Wesson world, they are not completely without manufacturing defects.
My Model 36, btw, has the same issue concerning cylinder/barrel line-up. My comparison for these, humorously, is my trusty lock-bearing 686, which has zero perceivable flaws after several thousand rounds...
Just some food for thought.
I acquired an 80's vintage model 29 in literally 99% condition from its original owner late last summer. It had exactly 60 rounds of 44 magnum though it, ever, as I also acquired the original box of ammo. I hand load, and no matter what I tried, the gun would lead in the first two inches of the barrel (8 3/8 barrel, btw). The gun is accurate as hell, the lead scrubs out with some Chore Boy no problems, but this really started to bother me, as it simply should not do this. I went through all of the bullet fit scenarios, etc, (more experimentation than I care to list here, really) and checked timing. Two of the cylinders would not click into place during a very slow cock, but barely. Under normal use, the cylinder was locking into place just fine. I finally took it to a reputable local gunsmith, and later find out the gun had a cracked hand. Although this was a future problem, it was not the actual problem of my leading, which a later range visit confirmed. So, back to my investigation. I ended up taking a wood dowel, and with the pistol at full lockup, sliding the dowel down the barrel revealed the true problem--at the transition from barrel to cylinder, there was a hang up when the revolver was turned to one side. In effect, the bullet is slamming against one side of the barrel (by a couple thousandths, but you get the idea) as it enters the barrel, causing the leading. The kicker, though, is that the hang up does not occur on all of the cylinders at full lockup, but rather only two of them...
This would require a bit of tinkering and shimming from a smith to fix, but I've decided to let it ride, as the guns shoots well and about 5 rounds of JHP ammo down the barrel after the lead rounds pulls the lead right out, but I just wanted to point out that although oldies are often goodies in the Smith and Wesson world, they are not completely without manufacturing defects.
My Model 36, btw, has the same issue concerning cylinder/barrel line-up. My comparison for these, humorously, is my trusty lock-bearing 686, which has zero perceivable flaws after several thousand rounds...
Just some food for thought.
