One concern about the Ruger Super Redhawk 44 mag

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gonoles_1980

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Very sturdy gun, fun to shoot. But the center pin rod, center pin connection to the ejector star seems flimsy. I had to get it repair just after I had the gun a few weeks. It' works fine now and has been for well over six months. But it just seems flimsy. I was checking parts for the gun, just to get the proper names. I noticed everywhere I looked the ejector star is out of stock.

You really notice how flimsy when cleaning the gun. Something to be concerned about?
 
It's not flimsy.
It shares the same multi-part construction that the GP has used since the 1980s.
The outer section of the "rod" you see & touch & which wiggles & frequently rattles is only a housing.

It's not a solid one-piece rod like the older Security-Six line & Smiths.

The reason the ejector's always "out of stock" is that Ruger considers it a factory-fit piece & doesn't make it widely available.

What went wrong with yours?
Denis
 
^^ What he said.

I have a number of Redhawks, SP-101s, and SuperReds and have never had an inkling of an issue with any of the ejector rods or stars. That includes the 480 SRH where top end loads can be a bit "sticky" to remove and liberal pressure is used on the ejector rod to get them out.

The only problem I have ever heard related to the ejector star is some people getting unburned powder flakes under them and causing the cylinder to drag or not close completely.

From a durability standpoint, the SRH is the M1 Abrams of revolvers. It would take a concerted effort or serious abuse to hurt one.
 
It just seems when cleaning the ejector rod, it's wobbly. Hard to explain I guess. It moves some, most likely because the eject rod and star is not one piece like DPris stated, it wiggles exactly as put pointed out. So that must be normal. At this point there is nothing wrong with the gun, fires great, love shooting it.

The only reason I have concern is because when cleaning after buying the gun the top part of the ejector rod and the bottom part that has the star separated. I sent it in for repair under the warranty and it was fixed and repaired, returned to me in under three weeks. Had that never happened, I probably wouldn't be asking this question.

I appreciate the responds, makes me feel better, thanks.
 
the top part of the ejector rod and the bottom part that has the star separated

What do you mean by this?
Are you saying that part #9 came off the font of the cylinder/crane assembly or that all the parts between #70 and #69 came apart?

r-superredhawk.gif
 
I'm a bit confused, too.
The front end you see & the back end with the extractor star are separate parts to begin with.
Denis
 
98Redline part 69 fell out of the cylinder, so it separated from the parts between 70 and 32. Nothing was broken, all the pieces intact (though I didn't mess with anything to check). So I put part 69 in a baggie, shipped it with the gun back. Got it fixed, haven't had an issue since. Was primarily wonder if I should worry about the wobble I feel when pushing down on the ejector and cleaning the stem on part 69.
 
You had a defective extractor set-up from the factory.
It can happen, but it wasn't because the extractor components are weak or fragile.

And wobble's normal, especially if you're encountering it on Part 9.
Shouldn't expect a tight fit there.
Denis
 
Thanks a lot. You can see why I was a little nervous based on the defective factory part.

This is my second favorite gun after my Valquero Bisley 357. Though the Redhawk is much more versatile.
 
My wife shot 24 44spl, I shot 24 lead mid-range, and 24 copper plated upper in. Since I had it repaired just after Christmas, the wife and I have shot around 1500 rounds with zero issue. But then I worry about everything :).

I just have to fix my tendency to shoot left and slightly high. The target had a bullseye hole in it about one inch to the left and 1/2" high of the center of the bulleyes at 25ft.
 
I'm not sure how to do that. I will investigate. I thought it was more to do with my trigger pull.
 
You seriously don't know how to adjust your sights?
Denis
 
Flimsy & SRH - not mine. These words together sound weird to me.

Mine are rock solid. Both 44 and 454. Gotta love them. And the sights are adjustable.
 
move your rear sight to the right and and lower it sligbtly . obviously do one thing at a time first and check after each adjustment while benched not offhand..
i never could remember what the arrrows mean. does it move the point of impact or is it how the sight will move, so i put a fingertip on one side of the rear sight as i make an adjustment so i could tell if im moving it where i want to.
 
I'm not sure how to do that.
For Ruger revolver rear sights, point your RIGHT thumb in the direction that you want the point of impact to move on the target and make a fist. Your fingers will curl in the direction you need to turn the screw. It works for elevation and windage adjustments.
 
Dpris, both my wife and I shoot the gun. I haven't paid attention to where she is off at. I'm not sure how to adjust the sight's based on that. Sorry, I left out an important part. She is normally shooting that gun first with 44spl, while I'm shooting another gun. If I adjust the sights for me, I might really screw her up. So I'll have to see if she has the same issue as me.
 
Set the sights to shoot whichever load gets the most use, for whichever shooter uses the gun the most.

If you're going to be bouncing around with Specials & Magnums, between two different shooters, you won't find one sight setting that works equally well with both loads & both shooters.

The gun'll definitely be off with one or the other load & quite possibly be off for one shooter.

Denis
 
If the difference in point of impact between the two loads/shooters is primarily in elevation, AND if your Super Redhawk is one that's equipped with the quick-change front sight, you can take advantage of the quick-change front sight to set it up so it can easily/rapidly be changed between points of impact.

Look at the front of your sight. If there's a hole, then push a thin hard object into the hole to compress the plunger. Once the plunger is compressed, the front sight should lift out of the gun. You might want to remove it to make sure that you have the removable sight.

If there's no hole then none of this will work. If there is, then you can rapidly replace the sight with one of these:

http://shopruger.com/Four-Color-Front-Sight-Set/productinfo/90047/

http://shopruger.com/Ruger-GP100-Red-Front-Sight/productinfo/90074/

Adjust the gun so that it's on target for the load that shoots the highest on the target.

Change out the front sight and switch to the load that shoots lower on the target. File down the front sight until the elevation is correct. Go slowly, it's easy to take material off but harder to replace it. ;)

Then you just need to keep track of which sight goes with which shooter/load and you're good to go.
 
Link to the SRH owners manual - see page 25 for the sight adjustment instructions:

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/superRedhawk.pdf

I do notice the SRH point of impact changing with different reloads. I can load 3 "hot" 180 grain and 3 "mediocre" 240 grain rounds. I will end up with 2 distinct groups on the target. So - as mentioned, be sure to set your sights for your most common load. I would expect 44 Spl to make their own group too.
 
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