one more batch of Saiga questions for the day :)

[yhtomit]

So:

Though I won't have a chance to fire it this weekend, I decided to field strip (not detailed disassembly, a bad idea for someone as fumbly as me) the Saiga to remove excess oil, in preparation for the real-soon-now time when I *will* get to fire it.

I'd really appreciate some tips from the current Saiga (and, I bet, AK) owners out there. I should note: this is a sporter, looks just like the one pictured at the following website:

http://personalsecurityzone.com/cgi.../PSZ/?Template=ProdDetail.htm&ProductID=27112

1) Receiver cover came off very nicely -- just CLICK and it's off. Cool! Some gun parts are so clever that no amount of fiddling seems to work; you just hit the magic candlestick at some point and the whole bookshelf spins on its axis ... this was by contrast nicely straightforward. However, in the interest of not ending up with a bunch of parts on the floor that I can't quite put back together, I tried immediately to replace the receiver cover, and ... well, I just can't find the magic position; it just slides around in approximately the right position, but never slotting into its original (assembled) state. Are there any specific points I can look for to line up?

2) Mainspring came out super easy -- wow! My admiration for Mr Kalashnikov grows -- this gun is well engineered for simplicity.

3) Bolt / bolt holder thing likewise -- they slide out nicely. The bolt is nicely hefty, and while it's no Swiss watch, it's actually more elegant than I'd expected. Took a little while to figure out a) how to separate the bolt from the bolt holder and b) how to reassemble, but that finally clicked nicely.

4) Removing the gas tube. Huh. Yeah. Hmmm. I finally figured out which slot on the side of the little toolkit was the right one to turn the handle of the pin that holds it in, but ... once it's moved to its upward position (I hope this is an understandable description for anyone with a Saiga), I have no clue how to actually remove the gas tube. I don't see any point which offers adequate purchase. Do I need to take off the front plastic handguard? Removing this part is actually mentioned only as part of the detailed disassembly part of the manual that came with my gun, and in a PDF manual for Saigas (which covers both rifles and shotguns) from European American Armory, the photo illustration of this step seems to show the handguard still in place. (Since I found that PDF through a random google search, I know I'm kicking the tires on a gift horse, but boy, they're poor photos, IMO ).

5) Wow. I know; all guns are always loaded. However, unloaded guns without bolts or mainsprings in place, and which have never been loaded, and for which I have no ammunition within 20 feet, are sometimes unloaded. So I looked down that bright, shiny chromed barrel -- wow However, I know I need to clean that beautiful barrel before firing the gun; it has a thin coat of oil inside.

Handguns, I know how to clean (at least how to clean the ones I own). I know that cleaning from the breech end is preferable. Can someone explain how to (or if to) clean from the breech end of semi-automatic rifle?

If I'm wrong, and I'm really supposed to clean from the muzzle end (which I won't do until I hear positively), how do I prevent the crown from getting beaten up? On my .22 pistol, my cleaning rod has a muzzle protector which prevents contact at that point, but the full-length rod that came with the Saiga does not. (I was born with little intuition, and my meager stock was lost in a tragic boating accident.)

So -- anyone have some short words for a slow learner on how to reach oneness with my new Russian friend?

Much thanks --

timothy

 

[aka108]

Take it apart and reassemble 8 or 10 times and it will all become familiar. When taken apart you can easily clean the bore from the breech end. To remove the gas tube simply grasp at the back end and pull straight up.

 

[mordechaianiliewicz]

Those Saigas are one of the best rifles out there for the money. And, once you get to shoot, and sight it in, you'll see that it is incredibly accurate.

It is in fact proof that AKs can be quite accurate.

 

[yhtomit]

aka108: got it! Thanks, that's just what I needed to know; I was evidently pulling one with one micronewton too little effort before; this time, I nudged up one erg, and it leapt right into my hand. So far, I think I'm going to start selling plasma and adding one of these in .308, too

timothy

 

[GigaBuist]

That lever you're turning to remove the gas tube is rotating a little metal rod that looks like a cylinder cut in half, length wise. Look carefully at what's moving and you'll probably see it. Once you spot it it'll be obvious when you've rotate it enough to remove the gas tube. The flat face on it will be perpindicular to the bore axis, facing the front sight.

Now, with regards to the dust cover:Once you've got the front bits into their proper slot lower the back half down and give it a strudy slap with the meaty piece of your palm. Just smack it. Hit it like it owes you money.

 

[yhtomit]

GigaBuist:

Hey, perfect -- though it ended up not taking quite as much effort as I thought from your description. Now I've done the assembly / disassembly a few times, and suddenly it seems something close to intuitive ... it was all a matter of getting the angle of the dust cover, the amount of pressure needed, the position of my front hand all aligned, and then SLAM, it's in place. Neat.

Thanks!

timothy

 

[SSN Vet]

piggy back question.....

I have a little difficulty when removing the bolt assy. from my x39 Saiga.

When I slide the carrier all the way to the back of the track, it won't come off by lifting straight up. Rather, I have to slightly rotate it clockwise (as viewed from the rear....lifting up the left side of the bolt carrier first).

Re-inserting the bolt carrier is a bit of a pita. It won't drop in straight, but requires me to find the magic angle and rotate it in.

Any comments out there as to whether or not this is normal?

When I look at the opening in the bolt carrier track in the receiver, the geometry (like the bottom half of an hour glass) doesn't look perfectly symetrical.

I'm suspecting that it is a manufacturing tolerance issue and considering taking a file to the opening.

Thoughts?

 

[MD_Willington]

SSN Vet, my S223 seems to re-assemble the same way. You have to catch it just right and then it eases out or in.

 

[yhtomit]

SSN Vet: as an instant expert (having owned mine since Saturday, and spent the last few days on here complaining and asking advice ), I agree with MD_Willington; there's a magic angle, like you say, and once it's achieved, ZIP, it's in.

timothy

 

[strat81]

+1 to the "magic angle" but mine is with a GP-WASR AKM clone. A little jiggling and it goes right in.

As for the crown, I believe Brownell's sells "caps" that will protect the crown. Also, quality one-piece cleaning rods (available in a variety of materials) shouldn't be a problem. I'd be more concerned about damaging the crown while transporting, reloading, putting the rifle down on my messy workbench, etc etc.

That being said, I'm quite happy with a Boresnake to clean my clone.