Oops--I created an Idiot mark!

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silverking

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Help please---as the title states, I initiated myself into the world of idiot mark makers with my new-to-me Springfield Champion Loaded.:eek::eek: My first 1911. Figured I needed to know how to breakdown and reassemble before taking it out for a complete test drive. Got it apart with no problem following the manual. Getting the slide stop re-installed was the culprit. It's done now thanks to some forum reading from the 1911 boards.
My question--what is the best method for polishing out the scratch under the slide stop lever? It is stainless.
Also--is it a common practice to smooth out the serrations on the slide or is it not recommended for fear of losing one's grip while drawing the slide back?
Thanks for the help,
silverking
 
Just be glad the gun is stainless and not blued. Use a tiny piece of very fine sandpaper and run with the "grain" for lack of a better word. Make sure you only sand in one direction, not back and forth as you normally would when sanding wood, or you will see the sand marks changing direction on your gun. Push the sandpaper in one direction, lift, repeat. It shouldn't take much and if done right, you won't be able to tell the mark was ever there. Good luck!
 
2 things that will work..

...

Flitz gun polish one process at a time until you're satisfied..

Next time, put a piece of black electrical tape over the area that will show the same mistake again, and again, if you find yourself in the "come-on, get-in !!" frustrated mode.. It will save you another same scratch and will not harm the finish nor your pride.. ;)


Ls
 
If it's a brushed finish, and you polish the mark out, you'll have a shiny spot that will stand out.

Try a scotchbrite pad; they come in various coarsenesses, and if you match the grade closely you'll get very close to a brushed factory finish.

Larry
 
I took possession of a brushed stainless revolver that already had a faint scratch. I obtained very good results by using fine-grit sandpaper in the way that Oasis618 describes. I actually used a slightly rougher grit to get the scratch out and then switched to the ultra-fine grit to blend the sanding marks in with the natural finish of the frame. Start with light pressure, then increase until you obtain results. After switching to the finer grit, gradually decrease the pressure until everything blends together. The scratch is now completely invisible, or more accurately, completely removed.
 
Next time, try sliding a plastic-coated playing card between the frame and the slide-stop lever when reassembing the pistol. No more "idiot" scratches!
 
I had one of those mark from a new in box blued Colt O1991. I didn't bother polishing it out. Kind of annoyed new factory gun had that scratch though.
 
Hah. Idiot marks are a rite of passage. Embrace them my son. :cool:


M
 
Logman in the 1911 forum showed us all a neat trick, I don't want to upset the mods so I won't include the URL but once you do the simple mod you'll never have a problem again. Just put "Logman idiot scratch" in your google search line.
 
Its a right of passage. Leave it alone until you decide to sell it. If you keep it forever, it will remind you that you shouldn't force things...

Enjoy the new toy! Shoot it lots and dont worry about how it looks. Each scratch and bump brings character. :evil:

V.
 
HisSoldier said:
Logman in the 1911 forum showed us all a neat trick, I don't want to upset the mods so I won't include the URL but once you do the simple mod you'll never have a problem again. Just put "Logman idiot scratch" in your google search line.
Click to expand...
I've done that to 2 of my 3 1911s and it works extremely well at preventing the idiot scratch.
 
Be thankful you didn't overshoot the frame completely and scratch the slide. :eek: If it is just small and not inscribing an arc clear across the frame or something, I would leave it alone, as any but the most careful and painstaking polishing will look worse than the scratch.

Also--is it a common practice to smooth out the serrations on the slide or is it not recommended for fear of losing one's grip while drawing the slide back?
Click to expand...
You want slide serrations as aggressive as possible without cutting your skin. If anything, those of most 1911s are a little on the fine side. You need as solid a grasp on the slide as you can muster, even for controlled conditions such as locking the slide back to "show clear" for the range officer.
 
Leave it alone.
If you polish it out you're just going to do it again.

Get some more scratches on the gun. Make it yours that way.

I hate safe queens

AFS
 
I agree with most.. a little metal polish, very fine scotchbrite, be careful about the sandpaper.. unless you have grits up to 1000.. (just saying.. 600 might be right but)

As for the cocking serrations. I just purchased a Springfield in stainless and WOW were the edges sharp. Now having been to the range with it 6 times or so, and numerous sliding and dry firing around the house, either the edges are softening or my fingers are toughening up. The problem with trying to break the edges with scotchbrite or fine paper.. the action is sideways to the brushed finish on the slide.

Sorry about the idiot mark. But JOIN THE CLUB.. I have one on my 1st 1911. :(
 
It may be a little late, but this is the video I watched to learn to strip and reassemble my 1911:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GLeP28IdPA

(some people have mixed opinions on the creator of this video, but this video is pretty neutral)

It's the best I have seen, and a video beats text instructions every day of the week, for me at least.
 
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