Ordered a progressive press finally.

There's some pretty good 3d Printed Case Feeders that utilize Lee's Quad stack case magazine system that are really affordable.

I think @someguy2800 used to sell them not sure if he still does.
 
I really like my LNL. The case feeder is a great upgrade and makes it go much faster, but you can enjoy it without.

1. Use a lock ring on the shell plate.
2. I used my pocket trimmer to make the primer slide opening a little beveled and had no issues with the priming since.

Others may have mentioned but there’s a series of 5-10 videos on tips and tricks that is very useful
 
I have an earlier version of that press. The Pro-jector. I bought it in the late '80's. Still going strong after who knows how many rounds. Priming on it is finicky, but once adjusted works. I use the Hornady Projector for Large Primers and my Dillon 550 for Small Primers. If it ever has a big failure maybe Hornady will want it for a museum piece.
 
Lubing progressive presses is always an interesting subject.

If you are to believe articles from when this press was first introduced, the zerks were accidentally left on the press. Others will swear by using a small grease gun to apply everything from axle grease to lithium grease.

I've never greased mine and just apply some Slip 2000 to the ram and the joints of the leverage arms

Is this kind of grease ok for the shell plate?
The only grease I use on the shell plate is on the underside on the retention balls. As you run the press, the grease will spread in the circle that the balls transcribe
 
I’ve never had the Hornady one, but from the feedback I’ve gotten, this works better than the Hornady case feeder too
I've had a lot of issues with mine over the years. But then again I wore out a press deck on my LnL, so I'm an extreme use case :rofl:

The biggest issue I had was the flipper and it wearing out and getting stiff and jamming. Pot metal on pot metal sucks. I made one from delrin, which solved my issue permanently. Also made pusher feet for 223 and 9mm as they are kind of tippy at higher speeds. Bigger stuff like 45 and 308 runs fine. And lastly my motor was dying a slow death in my case feed bowl, so I sourced a DC motor that is considerably more powerful than the original and added a variable speed controller. Those are just the high points. :)
 
I’ve never had the Hornady one, but from the feedback I’ve gotten, this works better than the Hornady case feeder too
I tend to agree...it takes up less room...and is simpler in execution. This from someone who has the Hornady case feeder which works almost perfectly.

Part of the problem with the factory case feeder is it tries to be everything for every cartridge. I love the little subtle changes I can make to it to make it run smoother, but the multiple case slider/pusher pieces is irritating..

I didn't have a problem with assembling mine , but I kept hearing about folks having issues with the Pivot Block (that transfers cases from the tube from the collator to the tube feeding the case slider. After helping a couple of folks solve their issues, I found that it was usually a matter of owners believing that "Tighter is Better":
1. Support for the pivot block assembly twists and tilts, affecting feed. That happens when you over tighten the bolt and distort the main support post
2. Pivot block doesn't pivot far enough to drop cases into the final tube. The pusher rod, with the nylon tip, isn't pushing the inclined plane far enough. That's because the rod is adjusted too high (because obviously, more is better)
3. Feeder drops more than one case at a time. This was a design flaw. The opening in the pivot block is too generous to catch the rim of the following case. It is cured with 3D printed insert which are caliber specific.

Just curious: There are several iterations of the 3D printed case feeder. Is the one you have the version with the roller bearing incorporated?
 
I tend to agree...it takes up less room...and is simpler in execution. This from someone who has the Hornady case feeder which works almost perfectly.

Part of the problem with the factory case feeder is it tries to be everything for every cartridge. I love the little subtle changes I can make to it to make it run smoother, but the multiple case slider/pusher pieces is irritating..

I didn't have a problem with assembling mine , but I kept hearing about folks having issues with the Pivot Block (that transfers cases from the tube from the collator to the tube feeding the case slider. After helping a couple of folks solve their issues, I found that it was usually a matter of owners believing that "Tighter is Better":
1. Support for the pivot block assembly twists and tilts, affecting feed. That happens when you over tighten the bolt and distort the main support post
2. Pivot block doesn't pivot far enough to drop cases into the final tube. The pusher rod, with the nylon tip, isn't pushing the inclined plane far enough. That's because the rod is adjusted too high (because obviously, more is better)
3. Feeder drops more than one case at a time. This was a design flaw. The opening in the pivot block is too generous to catch the rim of the following case. It is cured with 3D printed insert which are caliber specific.

Just curious: There are several iterations of the 3D printed case feeder. Is the one you have the version with the roller bearing incorporated?

Yes mine has a ball bearing where it rides in the cam slot. This was based off a design that someone did years ago on thingaverse that you probably have seen. I redesigned it to fix some timing issues and beef it up and make it so it could all be printed with no support material and assembled without any fitting. The original design has dovetail joints to hold it all together which would take a lot of hand fitting to work with 3d printing and it needs supports to print. I also added the ball bearing and the spring loaded case pusher. There isn't anything left from the original other than obviously copying the operating mechanism.
 
I have over a hundred thousand through mine and I have primed everything I load on there while I was loading. Every couple hundred I would blow out in front of the primer sled to keep debris out from in front of it.
I ground the edge off of the front of mine and that helped a lot. But eventually tumbling media and powder will find it's way in there.

The priming system on mine has been fantastic with all brands of primers except the new black SPP Winchester primers. I got some from the first batch they put out and they would jam the priming system up in short order, they also wouldn't drop into the sled from the tube. I think they were out of round.

When that priming system is right it works really well. Mine was over a 100k before I had to replace any primer parts on it.

Grease: I apply white lithium grease to the ram with my finger. Don't grease it with a grease gun with any automotive type grease, Hornady says not to because it dries out in the press and makes it stiff to operate and hampers it's movements.
While Hornady had my press, they cleaned out all the old gun grease I had put in it, and caught up all the upgrades. Talk about run smoother when I got it back.

I would discourage using the grease fittings on it.

Timing isn't hard to deal with. Just make sure the shell plate makes it to the detent balls while running it slow and the detent balls will do the rest. That's on the up and down stroke both.

Case feeder: Biggest problem I've found with my case feeder is the timing between the case pusher and the shell plate. It has to be spot on or the cases can fly out of there now and then.

So later on, if you look at getting a case feeder vs a bullet feeder dilemma, there is no timing on a bullet feeder to worry about, it dumps into the top of a die and mounts remotely. The case feeder upright

The case feeder pivot block started to gald right after I got the case feeder so I put some lithium grease where it contacts the other pot metal piece and that stopped that immediately. I have a new one but mine still has the original on it from 2012-13, I don't remember.

My case feeder has been really good, It jams sometimes and brass comes raining down on my but it does really well, I bought it three years after buying the press. I used the case feeder for processing brass also, depriming it all before cleaning and loading it, so it has a lot of run time on it.
It could definitely be better but it does pretty good the way it is.

I tend to agree...it takes up less room...and is simpler in execution. This from someone who has the Hornady case feeder which works almost perfectly.

Part of the problem with the factory case feeder is it tries to be everything for every cartridge. I love the little subtle changes I can make to it to make it run smoother, but the multiple case slider/pusher pieces is irritating..

I didn't have a problem with assembling mine , but I kept hearing about folks having issues with the Pivot Block (that transfers cases from the tube from the collator to the tube feeding the case slider. After helping a couple of folks solve their issues, I found that it was usually a matter of owners believing that "Tighter is Better":
1. Support for the pivot block assembly twists and tilts, affecting feed. That happens when you over tighten the bolt and distort the main support post
2. Pivot block doesn't pivot far enough to drop cases into the final tube. The pusher rod, with the nylon tip, isn't pushing the inclined plane far enough. That's because the rod is adjusted too high (because obviously, more is better)
3. Feeder drops more than one case at a time. This was a design flaw. The opening in the pivot block is too generous to catch the rim of the following case. It is cured with 3D printed insert which are caliber specific.

Just curious: There are several iterations of the 3D printed case feeder. Is the one you have the version with the roller bearing incorporated?

I agree, that could definitely be better designed.
 
I've used this stuff on the job in applications of sliding surfaces, worm gears and large rotating bearings.
I see what looks like it, on CMP rifles also. I see red grease in tubes in stores everywhere & just assume it's like this stuff.
If you're not going with the dry lube on the shell plate, a tiny amount of this should be OK.
Red & Tacky.jpg
Been using a grease cartridge of it on my LnL Zerk fittings.
I like to clean out old grease before installing new grease. Like a grease gun pushes out old grease with new grease.
Seems OK.
 

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Got tired of he haw'n around about it. It will give me something to tinker with over the winter. I also ordered shell plates through amazon for .223 and 7.62x39.
View attachment 1189455
Just curious is it economical to reload 7.62x39? I shoot that round too but all the ammo I've ever bought for it is steel cased. My old man has always said "why recycle toilet paper?" In reference to loading such ammo
 
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